Replies

1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 21, 2006 11:27pm | #1

   That's easy bones. Take your wide plank out of which you need to create the drawer opening.

   Cut a length out that is the requisite width (height) of the drawer front plus a mm or so.

   A section of this part becomes the drawer front. Take this part and cut a length out of the middle that matches the final position and length of your drawer front. This gives you five bits of wood.

   Put the drawer front part to one side and rejoin the other four bits together in the same order and locations that they came from. Done well the break in the grain pattern will be very hard to spot and the grain will run near enough continuously in the length and the width.

   Incidentally, it's not an absolute must that dovetails be cut with a dovetailing jig. They can be cut using other methods, including bandsaw and table saw tricks, and many would suggest that hand cut dovetails have greater potential to be aesthetically pleasing than any versions of machine made ones. Slainte.

   Richard Jones Furniture

1. 
   bones | Apr 22, 2006 12:56am | #3

   I get the general idea I think and thanks. One more question. When I cut the drawer out, and glue the pieces back together long ways, do I need to be carefule to place a pin or tail in the seam? I have not done dovetails, so I don't think I had better learn to hand cut on this project, but I do want to learn. I have even looked had the lienielson dovetail saw.  But that's in the future.

   Edited 4/21/2006 6:04 pm ET by bones

   
1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 22, 2006 06:02am | #7

   You've got the idea bones. Your drawing illustrates the principle. I'd have put up a drawing like that myself if I could have done but the 'Attach Files' button doesn't work for me on this computer.

   you shouldn't have a problem with placement of the tails and pins on the seams, assuming they're done right.

   Incidentally, in a later reply you say you aren't sure if you'll make the body and the lid as two parts or as one where subsequently you cut the lid off.

   Immaterial of box size the norm is to cut the lid off after the joinery is done. This way if there is any out of squareness the lid and the main body of the box will line up.

   Secondly, if you make the lid and the box as two separate entities you may make them slightly different sizes in error. This again would lead to a mis-match of lid and box.

   In cutting the lid off after construction of the corner dovetails you really should find a way of making the joinery neat at the lid/box break. This usually means stopping the dovetailing at the planned cut point and substituting a mitre or some other means of being able to avoid cutting through a pin and tail combination which is unsightly.

   Now I really do wish I could load images from this computer because that would be a lot clearer than the written description I've just given. Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture

1. 
   bones | Apr 22, 2006 06:13am | #8

   The more I think about it, I see the point. My only concern is cutting a big box like that. Obviously the bandsaw is out. I only have a 12" capacity. I could put it up on the table saw. I have a cabinet saw that has 7' rails so I could do it that way. Finally I have a good CS with a 7.25 forrest WWII on it. I could use that with a strait edge. I may make one out of pine just to see how it goes, so I don't screw up the good stuff. Something tells me I may make some kindling first time out.

1. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 22, 2006 06:28am | #9

   Do you have a handsaw, like a panel saw or rip saw? Or perhaps a hand-held router and a side fence? Alternatively, you could use a buzz saw and a straight edge. All will split lids off from the main carcase of boxes and chests.

   No need to take the chest to the big fixed tool. Take the hand held tool to the big heavy chest. Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture

2. 
   bones | Apr 22, 2006 06:43am | #10

   I use my porter cable circular saw with the forrest WWII blade for cutting panels down to size. It cut's very accurate and leaves a very clean edge. I could use that with a good strait edge. I don't own a good hand saw. Do they even make them any more? I don't know what exactly you are referring to as a buzz saw. 

3. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 22, 2006 06:58am | #11

   Sorry, it's the same as a hand held circular saw, and I see you have one of those-- the Porter Cable job.

   Yes, there are still hand held panel saws available. Not many good ones I admit, but they can ge got. Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture

4. 
   QCInspector | Apr 22, 2006 10:56am | #12

   I find that the easiest way to cut the lid off the base of boxes is with the tablesaw.After setting your fence and orientating the box so that you don't turn the intended bottom into the top. (Yes, I was dumb enough to do that to a very expensive exotic wood gun case.) Raise the saw blade but set it to leave about a sixteenth of wood uncut. Then you push the box through the saw cutting one side at a time until all four sides have been cut. The thin membrane left in the kerf holds the box sides so they don't close and pinch the blade.All that remains is to cut the last of the wood membrane in the kerf with a knife or thin handsaw. Clean the edges with a plane or sandpaper.

5. 
   bones | Apr 22, 2006 05:55pm | #13

   Thanks for the idea! I was wonderning how to handle the opening left by the kerf of the blade. I had thought of making some wedges the thickness of the blade. 

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 22, 2006 06:14pm | #14

   I like this idea, but one otherway to skin this cat was used by John Townsend on a number of his tables.  He cut the drawer front directly from the front rail.  The saw kerf was dealt with by applying cock beading around the opening in the rail.  (This means the cut needs only be straight, not perfectly finished--a broad chisel works well to pare off any saw marks.  The drawer face can then be planed to get a perfectly finished surface on the edges.  The cut was undoubtedly made with some kind of small bow saw started through a small drilled hole. ) 

2. 
   generalkael | Apr 21, 2006 11:41pm | #2

   I agree with SgianDuhb comments, and if you really want to minimize the amount of material lost due to the kerf of the blade, use a well tuned band saw. Remember to use a piece of stock that is a little longer and wider than the final dimensions to take into account the loss of material from the kerf.

   Scott
   Slacker Extraordinaire
   Specializing in nothing but knowledge in everything.
1. 
   bones | Apr 22, 2006 01:06am | #4

   Thanks. I think that will do the trick.

3. 
   BG | Apr 22, 2006 02:24am | #5

   bones,
   Personally, I love projects like this...lots of thinking required for us newbies. What dimensions and what wood? Will you be able to cut all the pieces from one glued up panel so that the grain has a continuous run around the piece? Will you glue up the box and saw off the top?

1. 
   bones | Apr 22, 2006 02:44am | #6

   I haven't even thought that far yet. It will be a big box so I don't know if I will attempt to cut the box lid off or make it seperately. Something to think about.

4. 
   TomHigby | Apr 23, 2006 02:26am | #15

   I made my first hand cut dove-tails when I made a blanket chest for my niece, about 45 years ago.  I also carved her name on the front.  I highly recommend carving the name. What could be more personal?  Letter carving is also lots of fun!

   Tom

1. 
   bones | Apr 23, 2006 08:12am | #16

   Thanks for the idea.