Replies

1. 
   oldusty | Aug 23, 2009 12:54am | #1

       I have made it with a Sears type molding head that goes on the TS .

          sort of a scary tool but most router bits won't reach the cut you need.

                     regards           dusty

2. 
   Quickstep | Aug 23, 2009 12:59am | #2

   I have a cutter head that I got from Sears decades ago that has three cutters that takes interchangeable blades. Closest thing I could find by googling was the Magic Molder. Same principle with two cutters instead of three.

    

   http://www.holbren.com/magic-molder/

3. 
   Jimurock | Aug 23, 2009 02:55am | #3

   Maybe I'm being unusually thick, being Saturday night, but I don't see how it would be possible to do that cut with one router bit -- the router bit rotates across the profile.  It might be possible with two -- a plunge roundover bit to make the bead, then a chamfer bit to finish off the vee edge?  Still tricky, though.

   Jim

4. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Aug 23, 2009 04:18am | #4

   bones,

   I also have the Sears Molding Head set.  I'd be happy to loan it to you if you would like to use it.  It doesn't have all the profiles and I believe there were additional cutters/profiles available.  It's been used maybe 5 times.

   Email me if you're interested.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

5. 
   Ray | Aug 23, 2009 04:25am | #5

   How much do you need?  In my house that stuff is full 1 X 4, I made a few pieces like that by hand with a Lie-Nielson molding scraper.

6. 
   jako17 | Aug 23, 2009 04:54am | #6

   As others have said .I use a Sears head on the tablesaw.Feed slowly with a feather board pressing down.Another suggestion is an old wooden moulding plane and a clamped straight edge for a guide for short runs.Thirdly you may be able to purchase it from a lumber yard as it is a common profile 

7. 
   oldusty | Aug 23, 2009 07:52am | #7

   bones,

          After thinking more about the Sears set , maybe there was a triple bead and we did a re grind to leave the single bead , but I have made backs and door panels for several jobs with this tool and it works fine .

      I have also made knives to make T & G beaded board on the shaper it took like 3 or more passes without a molder .Had to run the bead detail with board on edge but flat for the rest.

             I ran about a thousand lf feet for a curved wall in a wine cellar at different widths so it could make the radius of the wall , There was room for the tongue to bend in the groove .

                regards           dusty

8. 
   ring | Aug 23, 2009 02:05pm | #8

   Bones,

   The simplest solution is not to make the "false" bead in the middle at all. Use narrower stock and make a conventional bead profile at each edge with your router. After all, the profile that you're copying is "faking" that construct anyway.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

1. 
   bones | Aug 23, 2009 05:20pm | #9

   Wow, thanks for all the replies.   I've looked at TS molder heads and just don't think that's a direction I want to go.  If I were going to do that, the magic molder would be a real solution.  They even had the knife set to cut the pattern I wanted.  The cost of the system and the knives put it a bit high as I would want to add a power feed to get a good consistent cut.  Using a TS set gives me the same feeling I get when I use to use the RAS.    Ring has a real possible solution that I looked at as well.  Amana had this Bit for making a the 2" narrow strips with a bead on the end, but its a strait bead without the "V".  I may have to either just suck it up and do the strait bead without the "v" or  continue to look and save for a used W&H or woodmaster molder on E-bay or craigslist.  I had hoped that there was a bit out there with similar construction to the amana bit with the "V" on it.  Thanks again for all the input. I was married by a judge - I should have asked for a jury.George Burns

1. 
   Bill_Anderson | Aug 24, 2009 06:13pm | #10

   How about a couple of molding planes?  I have used a 3/16" beading plane on 1/2" tongue and groove board (which I cut with a tongue and groove set).  The center bead can be cut with a centerbead plane.  Depends on how much wood you want to cut.  I made about 18 feet complete in about 30 minutes.  I just got a double bead (3/16") which allows me to not worry about the grain directon on the stock, a real advantage.