How do I protect my new Starrett combination squares?
I recently purchased several new Starrett combination squares. I live in a very dry climate however there is already very minor surface rust already starting to form on the heads of the squares. I know there are different products I can use to remove the surface rust, but that is not the point of this post. I would like to know how to protect the forged steel on the combination squares from rust. I purchased Starrett oil, however, I do not want to discolor the wood when I use the Square for work – nor do I want to degrease the squares before each use. How can I protect my squares while still making them safe for woodworking with both soft and hard woods?
Thanks in advance for any assistance the community can provide me. I know there are hundreds of years of combined experience to pull from within this community!
Replies
I keep a can of Johnson's paste wax on the shelf for uses such as this. A fresh coat 2-3 times a year protects very well. Also, depending on where you live, certain times of the year have temp/humidity conditions that can cause condensation to form on exposed tools. Keeping them in a drawer and/or keep the air moving during these periods will also help.
I keep an oil (mineral oil) soaked rag hanging by my tool rack. Before I put a tool up I give it a quick wipe with the rag. It puts a real thin coating on the tool and, generally keeps rust at bay. I haven't had any problems with the oil affecting the wood at all. You can wipe the project with naptha prior to finishing if its a concern. I got this tip from Chris Schwarz's blog.
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Thank you, this is good feedback! Out of curiosity, do you keep your oil soaked rag in a can/jar or leave it exposed? Or does it even matter?
Mine is just hanging from a nail so it's always at the ready.
I like Boeshield T-9 for protecting tools. But, wax is another of my favorites....
All of the suggestions here work, but there's one thing you can do to protect the accuracy of your Starrett Combination Squares that far too many people seem to forget. Whenever you adjust it make certain you loosen the blade [ruler] lock and push it away from from the blade (don't accidentally drop it and lose it) so it doesn't drag and cause wear on the two nibs in the bottom of slot the blade registers on for accuracy. Your tools are made out of fine steel and stress relieved cast iron and then machined to within 0.00001+/-" accuracy. Try and keep them that way. I have my father's 18" Lufkin Combination Square that he bought in the late '40's/early '50's, back when they were as good as and equal to Starrett's. It's still as accurate today as it was when he bought it.
I do have and love Boeshield T-9, I use it on all my saltwater fishing gear. My concern with it is staining/discoloring wood from the residue on the tool. I guess I would need to test each wood type by putting a dab of it in an inconspicuous area and see what happens.
I keep a (previously) clean shop towel in a coffee can with the lid on. The rag is lightly oily; I put in a few drops of 3-in-1 every now and again. That is it leaves a film when I wipe down metal hand tools before putting them away but, isn't slimy. I guess clean is a fluid term now that I have been using that can and rag for so many years.
I use Camelia oil, that I bought a spray bottle, for all my hand tools, seems to work pretty well & is cleaner than regular lube oil. I have also used paste wax which works too.
Starrett recommends their own oil be used as a protective coating. I use 3-in-1 oil because it's cheaper and it works just fine.
I apply it with an applicator that Paul Sellers calls Rag-in-a-Can, but a loose rag with 3-in-1 works just as well.
Either way, the super light coat of oil it leaves on the tool has never adversely affected the finish of my projects.
I've tried several products and the square still rusts so badly and so readily I've almost thought about going back to a cheaper square made of zinc. I haven't found anything that will actually work that you can put on thinly enough not to have to wipe off every time you pick up the tool. And if you think 3-in-1, et al. won't put a spot on a project where you least want one, then think again. I live in the South, and I've had my Starrett develop rust during the work day more than a few times -- big rust fingerprints clear enough for an FBI background check. Sick of it, quite frankly. Good luck finding something.
If your shop temperature drops below the dew point there will be condensation on your tools and you will be battling rust and corrosion. I don't like using oils because it can come off onto your work. Waxes work much better in my opinion with no contamination. Short of heating your shop space and maintaining a minimum temperature when not in use you can build a storage box and use a light bulb mounted inside to keep the temperature above the dew point. Storing your measuring tools and others in the box with the heat of the bulb will help with the rust issue.
I’ve put T9 on my table saw and jointer and never any issues.
I suspect by the time you are done sanding and finishing the wood the microscopic layer of T9 would be gone. I don’t think it’s something that will transfer to wood as readily as 3 in 1 oil or similar.
Although after reading this thread I might wax my starret tomorrow.
Mike
Boeshield won't work. I've tried it. Boeshield works great on something that you aren't holding constantly in your hands. If you aren't holding your square constantly, then what's being described is more a storage situation and not one of use. In that scenario, a thin layer of Vaseline is as good as anything.
You’re never going to keep it pristine forever. You will get discolorations that are not rust related.
I use the little abrasive rubber eraser things and imply rub off any little discoloration as it appears.
How to protect your tools:
1. Keep them clean. Sawdust will attract and hold water and other contaminants against the metal. An air spray or wipe down will do the job.
2. Regularly coat them with a protective layer. 3 in 1, camellia, or other oils will help. Wax coatings can actually trap water against the surface. I use CRC 3-36, which came out tops in the Fine Woodworking test.
3. Define your regular. Daily use will require more frequent maintenance using a lesser amount of protectant. Less regular use will require more protective measures than just a coating.
4. If the tool feels like there is oil on it, there is oil on it, so wipe it off before you use it. Layout usually precedes sanding. It will take quite a bit of oil on the tool to transfer the oil to the wood. Recoat the tool it when you put it away.
5. The greatest danger to the accuracy of your square is your floor or other tools. If your floor is concrete, pray often. Get protective mats around your hand-tool bench. Don't leave your squares or hand-tools on a cluttered table top.
6. Occasionally go through the tools you haven't used recently and clean them from dust and recoat them with oil.
Excellent advice, "Nuub".
Great advice, WoodNuub! Thank you!
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