Alright guys, don’t laugh. My tablesaw power cord got chewed up…(not really sure how)…it just has a huge gouge in it and now my TS won’t even turn on. I’m an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff. My guess is that I’ll need to go buy an entire new electrical cord from Lowes/HD and rewire from the on/off box. But other than that, I have no clue. Can anyone WALK me through the process? Talk to me like a 1st grader because when it comes to electrical work…I pretty much am. thanks-Kevin
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Replies
You should have 3 wires black,white,green. Just reconnect them the same way in the same spots. It's possible that they have small rings and screws holding them on in which case you would need crimpers and eyelets to attach the new cord. It would help if you opened up the switch box and told me exactly what is there.
where are you? maybe you live by a knothead and one of us can come out and help.
thanks guys. I'm in south
thanks guys. I'm in south central Michigan...Kalamazoo/Battle Creek area. I appreciate the offer...let me see what I've got in the box and if I can figure it out.
Question...does it matter how LONG I make the new cord? I always wished I had a longer cord on my Tablesaw but I think I heard there are issues with doing that.
The longer the cord the more resistance therefore the greater the voltage drop.You want as lttle voltage drop as possible or the motor runs slow,the cord heats up and the breakers blow.
"does it matter how LONG I make the new cord?"
It depends how long is long! Resistance is proportional to length so doubling the cord doubles the resistance. However a modest increase would not normally be a problem - the resistance of GOOD cable is low.
I would suggest going to a thicker cable - as thick as will fit the connections. Going from, say, 1 sq mm to 1.5 increases the area by 2.25 which theoretically will allow you to increase the cable length by that factor.
It is vital that the connections are made perfectly. ALL of the copper strands must make contact otherwise you will get a higher resistance at the connection. This will generate heat - possibly enough to melt the plastic and damage the saw as there will be a lack of power.
The same applies if you cut the cord and use a connector - which may (will be) potentially unsafe anyway. Using a connector introduces extra connections in the system.
Hope this helps.
Give us some more info i.e. is it 240v ,is there enough cable to put in a connector, a photo perhaps. Don't even consider baring,twisting and taping the connection.This should be obvious but you mention 1st grade.Secondly if it bothers you, pay up and get an electrician ,it is cheap insurance.Please don't feel I am scaremongering .We regularly wire stuff into our 600v in our shop but we are VERY aware of the consequences
Kevin,
You can call me if you want to when you're ready to go for it. It might be more helpful to have someone right there on the phone. I just changed cords and voltages on both my jointer and dust collector.
As far as your cord length question in a post further on, I'd definitely take this opportunity to lengthen it. Of course, we're talking five feet or so, max, right? If you want to, say, plug it into your neighbor's back porch so they pay for your tablesawing, there might be a distance problem, and perhaps a few neighborhood ethics issues as well.
Anyway, you can e-mail me if you want to arrange something.
--jonnieboy
Kevin,
You may be a first-grader when it comes to electrical work, but I'm colour blind and that can be scarier (at least my friends think so).
There are few things in woodworking where someone can get killed, but this is one. If by the descriptions given from each person are not 100% clear, get a friend who knows EXACTLY what to do or an electrician. I could explain what to do but whether a first grader can follow directions exactly is a question. This is simple but only to those who know. Don't be foolish for the sake of saving $50. I would not want my wife to change a cord and she is very smart.
Whatever size rubber cord is on your machine,match it or go bigger.for example- 12/3-blk/wht/grn-12/4 blk/red/wht/grn whatever size it is presently-match it.All my machinery have 25' cord-no problem.if you have wire terminals where the wire connects to on/off sw put new ones on. cut one of the wire terminals off and take it with you,match it. all this stuff is available HD or lowes.you will crimp terminals to wire.buy your self a set of crimp pliers,their inexpensive.If you are going to own machinery, you should know some basic repairs.This is one of them. Good Luck/Q
And those crimp terminals -- Notorious for not crimping tightly even though given a good satisfying squash with the crimper. Once crimped, pull on them, hard.
I second Don's opinion.
I second Don's opinion. Better to consult someone ahead of time, or hire someone to do it.
If you merely put electrical tape on a gouged cord, that could be very bad.
--jonnieboy
thanks so much, everyone. Says alot about the community we have out here.
Went ahead and called a friend who is an HVAC Heating and Cooling guy. He's gonna swing by and take care of me.
Again, thanks so much guys.
I have an alternate suggestion:
1. Come out of the 1st grade classroom. Put on your Knots cap - you are innovative and handy with tools. Go for it! Learn a new skill.
2. We are going to extend your existing cord; you do not have to go into that complicated switch.
3. Cut the power cord (at the point it is frayed.) Better unplug it first.
4. Take the cut-off portion, including the plug at the end to a good hardware store. Try to go at a time they are not super busy. (Big Box stores are OK but they sell in quantities you do not need.)
5. Ask for their electrical guy and explain to him what you want to do."I want to make this cord 'X' long and splice it to my old cord in a junction box. Can you sell me the parts and show me how to do it?" (He will because that is what hardware stores do. Also, you have inflated his ego.)
6. He will sell you (a) a junction box, (b)2-'entries', (they protect the cords as they go through the walls of the junction box) (c)3-wire nuts, (d) a cover for the junction box and (e) the new length of cord to match the old cord. (You have already told how long it should be.)
7. He will install the 'entries' in the junction box. He'll insert the old wire through the entry, tighten the entry and strip the ends of the three different colors of wire. Then he will move the plug from the old cable and install on the new (longer) piece of cord. Ask him how to use the wire nuts, ask him how much you owe him for his help, thank him profusely, pay him and go home.
8. Find a place to fasten the junction box and secure it to the saw, probably with sheet metal screws.
9. Insert the short piece of wire (which runs to the switch) through the unused entry and tighten it, strip the ends the same way he did and fasten the wire-ends, color to color, withe wire nuts. Put the cover on the junction box, plug in the cord and start making sawdust.
Now, don't you feel proud of yourself?
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