How do I true a try square (engineer’s square)? I have successfully trued my contractor’s squares applying a center punch at either the inside or outside corners. My 6″ try square has a thick stainless steel handle (not wood). It’s angle is slightly greater than 90 degrees. I tried center punching at three spots – it at the outside rear corner, at the front of the handle (at the top), and before the handle (at the top) – without affect. Is it possible to true these squares? If so, what is the secret?
As a note, I inherited my father’s machinist’s square and plate, so I really do have a (nearly perfect) reference square in the shop. No, I can’t use the machinists’ square for my projects because it has only outside corners/faces and is heavy.
Thanks for your help. The next time I buy a try square, I will take along my machinist’s square!
Replies
You could try to machine it square. Take a file to it and mill down the end thats proud, then file down the length so its even...but you might just want to get a new one for that...Up to you.
Tom
Thanks, Tom. It is worth trying to file it down - nothing to loose except time. I still hope to hear that there is another fix, however.
Bert
I only know of one try square on the market that has adjustment capability. I believe it is a Crown product (avail. through Woodcraft) that has two adjustment screws in the wooden handle portion. I have dropped a few on occassion and replaced them rather than try to "fix" it myself. My other thought would be to take it to a machine shop and see what they can do for you. This route may cost more than the square however, depending on the brand. Good luck to you.
JB
Starrett makes squares that work the same way, two adjusting screws in the beam. They call them die maker's squares. They have a metal beam and metal blade and come in several different sizes.
Edited 1/16/2003 10:54:55 PM ET by Uncle Dunc
Bert,
On an all metal engineer's square, there are two ways to true it back to 90 degrees. The first way is to throw it out and buy a new one. If a square has ever been accidently dropped on a hard shop floor, it's finished, it is officially an untrue square.
The second, and only way short of bringing it to a reputable machine shop, is filing. Lay the square on the end of a large, reliably square surface. You could use the corner of your bench, or joint and thickness a large block of wood. (The size of a common house brick would work.) With the blade on the side face of the wood, and the stock referenced on the end, slide the square up to the top edge of the block so that the blade is slightly (as little as possible) above the surface. Lay a diamond (DMT) stone, or the stone you use for sharpening (it must be flat) and run it over the blade's edge until it's flush with the wood surface. This will restore the outer edge to a fairly useable condition.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Dan Kornfed, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.
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