Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 24, 2004 12:35am | #1

   Tom,

   The splines are 1/8 inch thick and could be ripped off the edge of 3/4 inch thick boards.  You could use any straight grained hardwood or softwood for the spline material.  The splines don't have to be a tight fit in the grooves, just a bit snug to even a bit loose.  Making the splines tight will create problems when you go to glue the facings in place. 

   The grooves on the facings could be cut on a router table or a tablesaw.  The grooves on the edge of the plywood would probably be cut with a hand held router guided by a fence.  The combined depth of the two grooves should be a bit more than the 3/4 inch width of the splines.

   John W.

2. 
   Bonka | Apr 24, 2004 02:22am | #2

   Tom;

   If you use a table saw use a rip blade.  The teeth leave a square end on the slot.  You need to make a jig to run over the blade and use the rip fence as a guid.  There are plenty or references out there. I would do a Google search.  There are many ways to cut spine slots and the splines and none too complicated.

   Jerry

3. 
   add47 | Apr 24, 2004 02:38am | #3

   I cut the grooves with a 1/4" tounge and groove cutter in my router (table mounted). I try to center the cutter on the thickness a close as possible, then make two passes, flipping the stock for the second one.  This centers the groove and makes it just enough bigger to accept the 1/4" spline easily.  (you don't want it too tight)

   I use  1/4" plywood, ripped to fit combined space of the grooves, a little under 3/4.  I use plywood because I read in couple of places that its better, stronger more stabile than solid wood. 

   I have been using walnut edging on Maple apple ply for a nice contrast.

1. 
   Buzzsaw | Apr 26, 2004 07:43pm | #8

   Hi,

     Speaking of tongue and groove cutting with a router, I understand the groove cutting with the router.  If I wanted to make the tongue to fit into the groove that you speak of, what type of bit would I use?  Thanks...Regards,

   Buzzsaw

1. 
   SCFrankland | Apr 26, 2004 09:55pm | #9

   You can buy cutters similar to rail and style bits that cut the groove in one setup and the tongue in another.

   Here is a set for making V-goove tongue and groove boards.

   View Image

   Scott C. Frankland

   Scott's WOODWORKING Website"He who has the most tools may not win the race of life but he will sure make his wife look like a good catch when she goes to move on."

2. 
   add47 | Apr 27, 2004 02:21am | #10

   I concur with Scott.  I was using the groove set up from my T&G set, similar to the one he pictures.

   I just grooved both parts and joined them with the plywood spline.  this allows a thicker edge band with less material...gives you more meat for shaping or contouring.

   Hope this sheds some kind of light.

3. 
   add47 | Apr 27, 2004 02:34am | #11

   Here is the type I have...

   View Image

1. 
   toddhunter | Apr 27, 2004 05:31pm | #12

   How do I cut 3/8" splines out of pressure treated wood for my arch segments? I don't have a table saw (or band saw), though I suppose I could ask a neighbor. I would rather do it with my router, my planer or by hand. Thanks, Todd

1. 
   add47 | Apr 27, 2004 08:45pm | #13

   Sorry, the technique I was describing was for edge banding high end veneer sheet stock with solid wood.  It sounds like you are doing something all together different.  If you are mounting panels in arched frames, then probably a T&G as set (as pictured earlier) is the thing, just use the thing per normal, and forget about making separate splines.

   Hope I didn't confuse you.

   "sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug"

2. 
   toddhunter | Apr 28, 2004 01:09am | #14

   Thanks for the reply, but no, I wasn't confused. I realize I may be taking this thread in a new direction, but it didn't seem to make sense to start a new thread with the same subject title. I am doing something different, but as long as I've got your attention, as I said, I'm building an arch out of 4 segments of 1-1/16 x 6 pressure treated boards. Per another thread, I cut mortises and now want to cut the splines out of the same material (yes?). All this without a table saw or band saw (router and planer available). Any help is appreciated. Todd

4. 
   slem2 | Apr 24, 2004 05:15am | #4

   Tom

   I am not sure how to  use splines for the project in the article you mentioned but I have used spline joints before and I can tell you how I did those and mabe you can apply this method to your project.

   I made splined joints when I made my corner cabinet to keep the corners aligned during glue-up. These I cut on the table saw.

    First I cut the 22.5* miters in each of the boards on the front of the cabinet by tilting the blade to the right and using the fence on the left of the blade.

   Then leaving the blade tilted at the same angle I put the fence on the right and turned the board aroung and run it through to make the spline cut in the mitered edge.

   I ended up with a 1/8" slot for my spline.

   For my spline I used a 1/8" thick piece of melimene board. I ran this on the belt sander to thin it down a shade.

   For glueing up 2 boards side by side using splines I also cut these on the table saw and if I want a 1/4" thick spline I just clamp a 1/8" thick piece of melemene  board to my fence for the first cuts in my boards and then remove the melemene board for the second cut which will make a 1/4" slot.

   Hope this helps.

   BT

   It helps to use a feather board for these cuts since the boards are standing on edge when making these cuts.

5. 
   HowardAcheson | Apr 24, 2004 09:03pm | #5

   One thing to keep in mind about solid wood splines is that they are cut across the grain, not with the grain. If you make a spline from long grain wood, it adds no strength to the joint whatsoever.

   Good spline material is 1/8" or 1/4" masonite, or 1/4" plywood.

   On final but, no doubt, contentious point, splines will not add any strength to a long grain, solid wood joint. In fact, it can be argued that a splined long grain joint actually weakens the joint. The strongest long grain, solid wood joint is a properly prepared and clamped glued joint.

6. 
   BG | Apr 25, 2004 01:09pm | #6

   Tom,

   There was an article a while back in FWW that presented 5 different methods for attaching hardwood face or trim to plywood stock.  When using a spline, I like to use 1/4" ply for the spline and run all the cuts on the TS.  However, that doesn't always work easily because the ply panel can be kinda large and running it on end on the TS can get a bit unweildly.  You can also cut a 1/4" tongue and grove and attach that way....again, with the TS and a dado blade...ply has the tongue.  This is a bit easier cause the panel is lying down as it slides across the TS.  Whenever possible, I rather cut a shallow grove or rabbit in the hardwood and slide it over the plywood edge.  This method provides additional strength and covers up the edge of the plywood a bit...looks neater.  Good luck with your method
1. 
   macalex | Apr 25, 2004 01:46pm | #7

   Good advice - especially:

   (1) Don't spline long grain joints, it weakens them. Same probably applies for biscuits (in spite of what's his name on the New Yankee Workshop always using them), although biscuiting may help with alignment

   (2) Plywood is best as a spline, but if using solid wood, it has to be cross-grain

   Stopped splines are the real test. If for example you're making a box with splined mitred corners, but you want to cut the lid off after gluing up, and if the mitres will also show at the top. The spline has to stop either side of the opening, and before the end of the mitre so it doesn't show. The only way I know is with a router. I made a jig to hold small box parts, plunged the router in to produce stopped slots.