I have trouble keeping the stock against the edge of the board. The pin sometimes follows the wood fibers, pushing the stock away from the edge and creating a wany line. I think I need to completely change my technique. Also, I find the metal wheel type marking gauges, although much more expensive, to be inferior to a simple cheap wooden one. The registration area is smaller, the arm is thin and they are harder to hold. I don’t like it that the wheel turns while marking because that just adds another variable. I have XL hands and generally have difficulty with fine motor skills like buttoning shirts. I am open to any recommendations.
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Replies
With your foot of course.
Sorry. Just a sarcastic woodworker wanting to keep hand tool woodworking alive. A bad combination.The first photo is my favorite because it shows the basic pressures applied.
Two smallest grip the rail.
Middle finger presses tool fence against the work.
Thumb against corner of fence to keep it from turning and to rotate the pin or knife into the work.
(Index finger just in the way so keep it light or off the fence)
Probably get cramp if you hold it like that with your index finger sticking out all the time but good for illustration purposes. It is from one of my favorite books
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Dovetail-Handmade-Furnitures-Signature/dp/0941936678/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1366573802&sr=1-1&keywords=the+complete+dovetail
also I have not purchased these yet but discovered a YouTube ad
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_y9K0mTufQ
about them and I am excited to look into them.
As far as the pin following the grain you can file the pin into a tiny knife or use a cutting guage (see the guages that I made). The knife edge when set up right pulls the fence against the stock rather than follow the grain. Generally. In theory. Pretty much.
: )
Here is the article for those gauges. May be better for large hands or you can make one to fit your needs. My hands are small and this style is Japanese but I have used the design to make some very large fenced beam guages.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/article/shopmade-marking-gauge.aspx
Be sure if you are using a round pin that is is as short as possible; if it is sticking out more than a couple of millimeters it can cause problems.
. . . any way here are too many photos but perhaps some will help you.
Of coarse there are other marking gauges so depends on what style you are using.
Years ago I strongly requested that Veritas produce a metric scale on their gauge and then never got around to buying one.
Just ordered and received mine this month.
http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=452
DOES THE WHEEL SEAM TO TURN OR DOES IT REALLY TURN ?
It should not. It is fixed with a screw and should just cut the fibers without turning.
PS: . . . you know . . . it just ocurred to me . . .
. . . you could hire a pretty assistant with small hands and fine motor skills to be there at all times to do your layout work for you.
: )
I hope I don't get sensored for that.
. . . no . . . really . . . I'm serious.
WHAT !
That's not what I ment.
You have a dirty mind.
How Do You Hold a Marking Gauge?
I was using the wrong technique. I didn't have my index finger over the top of the arm, so instead of cupping the stock in the palm of my hand, I was holding it with my fingertips and trying to push it hard laterally against the edge of the board while also dragging it down the board. That's very hard to do because you are trying to control hand force in two directions simultaneously. The correct way takes a lot of pressure off the hand and wrist and frees up your thumb to back-up the pin against the face of the board.
Short, sharp, and light
As roc says, file the nail/cutter into a knife shape and keep it sharp. Only have it protrude a 1/16 or so. If it is too long it is difficult to keep the rod of the gauge indexed against the stock.
Take a light pass, with the gauge and rod pressed against the stock firmly but gently. If that pass did was straight and did not follow the grain or skip for cross grain, take another pass a little more firmly and one more if necessary. If it followed the grain, take a lighter starting pass. The hardness and grain will affect how the cutter acts.
Then, if you are over 40 like me, take a pencil and lightly go over the line so you can see the @#$% thing:)
Marking gauges can be frustrating to use at first; they are more difficult than appear. With practice you will get used to them and find yourself reaching for them all the time.
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