i want to build a somewhat formal cabinet where the drawers are inset — outside face is flush with the outside of the face frame – and i want to add a bead around the outside edge of the FF. I’ve thought of two ways to do this but both seem like they have issues and i don’t want to totally screw up my FF which i just attached to the cabinet. the two methods are…
1) cut a bead in a piece of wood. cut it off so that only the ‘hump’ is left and glue the hump around the edge of the FF (see picture). The corners would be mitered. If i do this, besides being a pain, it seems like it would be really hard to glue it in place and make the corners tight. see smalltrim.jpg
2) cut a bead in a piece of scrap and cut it out so that it’s as deep as the FF. THen glue it along the inside edge of the FF (so now the FF openning is actually smaller) but let the round part of the bead stick out past the edge of the FF. (this probably makes no sense to the reader ). See bigtrim.jpg.
Is there an easier way??? I guess my other approach is to leave this off and add an edge to the drawers but i like the look of the bead sitting proud of the FF.
Thanks for any help.
Replies
Hi Bob ,
What you want is commonly called cock beading and your second picture is how it goes in each opening , and yes the opening becomes smaller .
A similar look can be achieved by adding the beading to the drawer faces as well .
good luck dusty
Can i route the bead directly on the drawer front? If i do, it seems that I'd need to stop each bead before it hits the very end, else the two beads (one horizontal and one verticle) would cross each other right in the corner. Can i just stop each one just before i hit the end?
Bob, there is another way which does not interfere with the drawer opening : rout a small moulding around the drawer front edges. see the pictures. You need a router bit of suitable profile.
very nice. how do you mount the face so that it's even like that? Seems like you'd need to adjust it a couple times. So far in my short cabinet making life i've only built full overlay drawer fronts which attach to a seperate drawer box...these are pretty easy to align and errors aren't so obvious.
thinking about this outloud. I guess i could, starting with the bottom drawer, adjust the drawer depth. Then set the drawer front in the FF opening w/some small spacers on all 4 sides and then drill my holes for my screws and hope nothing moves/settles. If it moves any after mounted then it seems like i'd have a tough time adjusting it.
Any advice?
Bob, I have been searching for the cutter reference-can't find it so far. It is a Trend cutter (British), but there are other similar shapes.
It just requires suitable depth setting and the router base rides on the drawer front. The router is used with a fence, which determines the width of the cut. I use the router with a base extension so that there can be no snipe-which would be fatal.
I am not sure what you mean by adjusting the face: but I do that cut after I have set drawer stops and made sure the drawer front is either flush with the FF or slightly inset all round(by hand planing).Philip Marcou
in this context, i'm curious how you 'adjust the face' to get such even spacing (gap) on all four sides...getting a good 1/8th or 1/16th gap between the front and the sides.
You make mention of "stops" which begs the question...is there some way other than moving the drawer slides in/out to adjust the dept of the drawer and thus the depth of the face?
Beautiful pieces!
Is that a french polish? I am new to the finishing world, so forgive the ignorance. Those pieces are just plain intimidating.
stephen
Those were made about 40years ago in Hong Kong. I am quite sure that they were finished by way of padding shellac rather than the real French polishing. Anyway, over the years the owner has lavished many cans of "magical furniture polishes in cans " on the furniture, but decided to have all horizontal surfaces sprayed (by me) with a durable finish. I used catalysed lacquer and rubbed the rest down with steel wool etc and applied a Danish oil. See some pics of dining room table etc that I did for her.Each item has that mysterious Chinese emblem carved on it-don't ask me how it was done....Philip Marcou
Bob,
As other posters have said, a cockbead as you describe, can be applied either to the frame of the case, or to the drawer front.
I have, in the past worked the bead onto the case members themselves. This makes for a more durable construction, but adds some complexity to the planning and assembly of the case. In the instance of a piece with fairly narrow face members, as a solid-end chest of drawers, where the front of the case is composed of the narrow edges of the case ends and drawer blades (rails, divides), it is fairly straightforward to work a smallish, 3/16" or so, bead onto the edges of the rails, and rabbet away the area up to the quirk of the bead, leaving it standing proud. The joinery of the case is somewhat complicated, requiring that the mortise and tenon, or dovetail joint be flanked by a mitering of the bead, cut as a part of the joint.
When the case members are fairly broad, as in a cabinet with face-frame, it is perhaps more practical to work the bead on the solid frame members, but leave it flush with the surface, rather than standing proud. A quirk, (perk or fillet) is left between the bead and the remainder of the frame, which creates a shadow line that mimics the line around the flush drawer-front or door. Again, the joinery that is used to tie the frame members together must be modified to incorporate a miter for the bead.
Yet another flush bead alternative, for those not liking the idea of an applied bead on a drawer front, that might be torn loose, is what is called a scratch-bead, or screw-bead. Worked directly onto the drawer front of door edge with a shop made scratch stock (most often a flathead screw driven nearly up to its head into a small block of scrapwood), the "bead" is little more than a vee-shaped line scribed 1/8- 3/16 from the edge, and the corner or arris of the edge rounded over with some sanding. The lines are finished up to the corners on the inside with a vee- chisel. Quick, easy, and surprisingly effective on a simple design.
Ray
Bob,
The "bigtrim" solution is quite easy but has the disadvantage of making the openings smaller, which I find too much of a drawback whenthere are drawers to be fitted etc. My shop almost always uses your "smalltrim" method. We use a bead that is milled into 3/8" sqaure stock. It is set in place with glue and a 22 gauge pinner, corners mitered of course.
Since you've already done the faceframes, this next suggestion is a non-issue, but maybe for next time - you can mill the faceframe material with the 3/8' rabbet already done before you attach them to the cabinets. Some get one edge, some get two. It adds a bit of time in cutting the FF joints, but saves all that routing and corner-chiseling after the fact.
The attached photo is part of a soft maple cabinet, unfinished, made this way.
regards,
David Ring
http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e
Method number two is the most common way. The miters are nearly invisible and it all fits pretty easily. There is a third way that is nicer, but a lot more work and ultimately looks the same. You use a "beading bit" to rout the bead(s) in to the face frame, then where the rails and stiles of the faceframe meet you have to notch, or cut the bead off with the apropriate miter. There are jigs you can build that make this a lot easier, but the jigs are difficult to make and only worth it if you are making a whole kitchen. All in all adding a bead to the inside of the opening is the way to go.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
thank all. BTW i do have a beading bit -- it's what i used to make the components shown in the two pictures actually. I cut a bead and then seperated it from the rest of the material via the table saw.
Mudman...i can't see how you use a beading bit directly to make this work. Seems to me i have to attach a seperate piece to the FF vs. get the look by entirely milling the FF.
ring...i understand now how rabbetting (sp?) out a place for the small bead (first picture) would make this much easier. This wood i'm using is so dense, i think it would split no matter what i tried to pin it with.
So...i think i'm going to go with picture 2.
Final (well maybe) question. How do y'all cut that mitre? by hand using a small mitre box or using a power mitre saw? I've got a decent saw w/a fine tooth blade (?60 tooth diablo blade...but it's got some wear) but it doesn't cut as clean as i'd like for this kind of stuff. If i do it by hand i'm going to have to build a small mitre box out of wood and use something like a veneer saw. Thoughts?
Bob,
As far as te router bit goes, are you using a round over or a beading bit? A beading bit is designed to cut a bead onto the face of a board. Here is a picture of the bit and its cutting profile.
The next picture is how the bead must be notched out on the stile to fit the rail. The beading on the rail must be mitered also. This produces the best results. If you have a whole kitchen to make then it is faster as well. For a couple of cabinets the jigs take too long to make.
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
Thanks Mudman for the picture of the beading bit. This looks like the edge treatment for a shaker peg shelf. I also so Garrett Hack make a small beading tool like this at a wood show. He used a chunk from a cabinet scraper and a round file. Sawed a kerf in a chunk of wood and had a beading plane quick as you please. While not as fast, if you are treating the actual drawer face with the bead, a hand held option might be useful where the corners intersect.
I have done your #2 procedure many times and it looks great, I let the rounded edge stick out about 1/8" or slightly less and the strips are just slightly larger than 1/8" and as thick as the face frame. So you will loose about 1/4" or a little less in both directions of the door opening.
Well everyone i got option 2 working fairly well and even my big ole mitre saw seemed to cut faily well. i glued them in place (even though they fit tight) and shot a couple small brads in each one.
Mudman...you've got my curiosity but i'm having trouble following your approach. Yea, i definately have a beading bit. i ended up using it to cut the full roundover shown in the second picture (bigtrim.jpg). I'm not doing a whole kitchen with this trim detail, just one of the cabinets -- one that sits in the dining room.
So far it looks pretty good and i can't thank you all enough. Kind of nice to learn a new technique.
Bob, for interest, this is what I see on Chinese furniture made in Hong Kong. There is a lipping pinned in, but it is nicely done with the relief made on the frame so that it is not obvious that there is a separate lip. The wood is PNG Rosewood (Pterocarpus Indicus).Not to mention all kinds of other cunning joinery characteristic of Chinese work.Philip Marcou
First you mill all the FF stock with the beads. Then you cut to leingth. Next you have to remove the bead from the stile leaving the remaining bead(s) with 45 degree angles. If you are making only one or two hand tools are the fastest. On the rail you have to 45 the bead(s) so they fit to the mitered bead on the stile. At first this is a tedious tack requireing a lot of skill. But after you make two you should have it down pretty well. The joint can be held togather with pocket screws or if you want to really challenge yourself use a mortise and tennon. If you have a whole lot to make you can make jigs using routers, TS, or radial arm saw. After you have the jig and some practice it is a lot faster than adding the beads later.
There are many ways to actually create the joint if you look on the Net you will find one that lends itself to your tools and skills.
This is a difficult piece of joinery, but remember my signiture. You wont regret it!
Pardon my spelling,
Mike
Make sure that your next project is beyond your skill and requires tools you don't have. You won't regret it.
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