I am new to woodworking and have built a combination workbench / tablesaw outfeed table (part folds down on hinges). Of course being new to this, I bought birch plywood from HD and it has warped unevenly, anywhere from a 16th of an inch to 1/8 inch from center reference points. Obviously, dead flat would be preferable, but was wondering is there a reasonable flatness tolerance for an outfeed table that will still produce accurate results before I scrap the tops and start over (concern is rt – left, up down movement of wood once it hits the outfeed table).
Also, if anyone has suggestions on how to keep plywood / hardwoods from warping in an Arizona garage, I am all ears.
Thanks.
Replies
I tolerate a little uneveness in my workbench, but 1/8" sounds excessive. It depends one what you plan to do on the workbench. If it'll be your primary assmebly table, I'd work to get it as flat as possible. If its more outfeed table than workbench you'd probably be okay, it'll serve your purpose.
As for the board rising and falling you've got to remember that the board will ride the highest point on the outfeed table once it hits the table. So it will not drop down into the hollows, only rise onto a high. Secondly 0.125" (1/8") lift 24" from the blade center is only 0.026" (between 1/64 and 1/31 of an inch) lift 5" behind the blade center where the teeth are. Which is practically nothing.
Thanks! Should I be concerned about possible left-right lean as the greater amount of weight is past the saw blade and rests on the table?
Hi,
I'm a wee bit confused.
Does the outfeed table hinge up off the back of the TS? If you stand at the infeed side of the TS are you saying that the leans from left to ight? If all the above are true, what if holding up the far end of the outfeed table?
From your description it sounds like after the board passes the blade it wants to tilt from left to right. Is that true? If so then you really need to fix that! Thay sounds like a recipe for kickback or could be. You are using a spliter right?
If you could possibly post a picture that would be most helpful.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Anything that would deflect a board rt-pr left is a worry. But you should be able to see how much deflection by simulating a rip cut with the power off and the blade lowered. If the board is being deflected then I'd worry.
For the longest time I used a roller stand on my very unlevel garage floor with no problems.
Make sure that you are using the proper guards and splitters on your saw.
You can't just count on plywood to remain flat by itself, especially, but not limited to stuff from HD. It stays flat by being attached to rails that keep it so. A particularly good way to get tables that stay flat is to make them as tension boxes with material top and bottom attached to a grid in between. Tendencies to warp are counter balanced.
I think you meant "torsion" box - I agree that is the way to go.Frosty"I sometimes think we consider the good fortune of the early bird and overlook the bad fortune of the early worm." FDR - 1922
Right, torsion it is.
Frosty,
Another thrifty way is to use a hollow door, which is basically the same as a torsion box. Even a new one sans from Home Desolate sans any hardware is pretty reasonably priced when you factor yor time into it.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
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