Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 15, 2004 01:24am | #1

   Jim,

   More than likely it is just a lack of lubrication.  If you want to do a quick test, remove the motor cover and squirt a bit of penetrating oil on the lift and tilt worm and gear mechanisms.  If the saw moves better right away, you've identified the problem.

   You can clean up the crud and old grease on the gears and trunnions from the motor opening, but to do a really good job I'd suggest removing the cast iron table which will make it much easier to do the work.  I've found that the waxy stick lubes work well on the gears without attracting too much dust.

   John W.

1. 
   Mackwood | Apr 15, 2004 02:53am | #4

   JohnW,

   Your mention of the "waxy sticks" makes me think you might be the John "W" that wrote the wonderful book, "Care and Repair of Shop Machines".  If so, thank you!!  I checked it out from the library several times and then bought a copy to keep in the shop.  The common "sensical" and economical way you approach precision adjustment of these machines is really great!

   If not---You're a smart WWer to use the waxy sticks!

   Regards,

   Mack

   "WISH IN ONE HAND, #### IN THE OTHER AND SEE WHICH FILLS UP FIRST"

2. 
   Jimma | Apr 15, 2004 03:20am | #5

   I've never seen a waxy lube stick. Can you supply a brand name or suggest a place to look for one?

1. 
   jackiechan | Apr 15, 2004 05:21am | #7

   Jim,

    

   You can find these lub' sticks at most hardware stores.  The one below happens to come from Ace (Hardware).

    

   View ImageDan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

2. 
   ronniebe | Apr 15, 2004 01:49am | #2

   I just finished a job milling 500 board feet of cypress and my blade tilt and riser cranks froze twice. I cleaned the cabinet from the mound of saw dust and and used an air gun to clean the saw. It freed the cranks. The cypress saw dust seems to be a little finer that the other woods I have used.

3. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Apr 15, 2004 02:01am | #3

   I've got a Unisaw, which I believe has similar cranks.  When they get hard to turn, I crawl underneath with an old toothbrush and clean the sawdust out of the gears.   When the dust is mostly out, I use the brush to apply paste wax.   The saw will be good to go for another six months or so.   I don't use grease or oil in that dust-filled environment, thinking that it would grab dust more than wax will.

4. 
   aksophie | Apr 15, 2004 04:45am | #6

   I have been spraying WD-40 or equivalent on the screws of my Unisaw for more than 20 years. I've never noticed an accumulation of sawdust. Both screws can be sprayed from either the front or thru the blade throat. This is so easy, I don't know why anyone would do anything else.

1. 
   JohnWW | Apr 15, 2004 05:16pm | #12

   Concerning the WD-40 versus grease debate:

   While WD-40 is a good temporary fix for binding in power tools, and one I've used often, I prefer to use a more substantial lube because I believe that, in the long run, it reduces wear on the machine. 

   John W.

2. 
   UncleDunc | Apr 18, 2004 12:51pm | #17

   The problem with WD40 is you get locked in. The residue gets sticky eventually, and the only thing that will free it up is more WD40. I haven't used in a saw, but I have used it in fan bearings, and the service interval kept getting shorter and shorter.

5. 
   Clay | Apr 15, 2004 08:35am | #8

   Jim (and everyone else with this problem) ;  Forget the waxy lube paste wax etc.  Spray with WD-40.  The paraffin base of WD-40 does a very good job of resisting dust attraction and build-up while still doing a good job of lubricating.  As a former maintenance supervisor in a factory where we ran quite a few high-volume saws I can tell you that this product is pretty standard in the industrial environment for such uses (and well deserves it's status there too).  Never use grease where sawdust will be a problem.  Use the WD instead.  Blow off excess dust before spraying and then rinse off any light residue with the WD-40 spray.  Work the cranks to get the WD spread through the sleeves and respray till everything is slick and smooth.  It's easy and it works REALLY well.  We used to buy WD-40 in cases of gallon cans and then used those to refill spritzer bottles for applying.

6. 
   Crunk | Apr 15, 2004 02:05pm | #9

   Keep the gears brushed out with a brass bristled brush.  I agree with the suggestion to use WD-40 - heavier lubricants will simply attract the sawdust.  The wax stick isn't a terribly bad idea, but you may not be able to reach all the spots that need lubrication.  Obviously, the WD-40 can be sprayed.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/15/2004 7:08 am ET by BossCrunk

7. 
   jako17 | Apr 15, 2004 03:42pm | #10

   I have found that WD 40 works well but of late have been using Dri-cote on the sliding surfaces i.e  the quadrants But not the sleeve bearings

1. 
   Jimma | Apr 15, 2004 04:41pm | #11

   Many thanks for all the suggestions. Today I'll crawl around the saw's innards and see what needs cleaning before applying anything. Right now there's enough buildup of dust and factory grease to give me a whole new project for the morning. Since WD-40 looks like the easiest way to go and can't hurt anything, I'll try that first. Even have a brand new can! Thank you all for your inputs.

1. 
   jackiechan | Apr 17, 2004 07:15am | #14

   Jim,

   If you decide to use any sort of spray lubricant, take extra care to not spray the saw's rubber v-belts.Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

1. 
   Jimma | Apr 17, 2004 04:35pm | #15

   Good reminder,Dan, not that I would anyway. I hate those slippery, floppy belts!

8. 
   tsproul | Apr 15, 2004 05:40pm | #13

   rather than wd-40 or "waxy stick," try ordinary paste wax. Since your gears are all gummed/dusted up, use 2 old tooth brushes (or new if you're not so cheap.... : ) ). Use one to clean out the gunk and then apply paste wax with the second. Once, dry, paste wax does not attract saw dust. I advise you to tilt and raise the blade many time (for both operations) prior to using the saw and let the wax dry thoroughly since if it is still a bit wet, it will attract and hold dust....best to do this last thing at the end of the session.....and let dry overnight.

   Tim
9. 
   SEBDESN | Apr 18, 2004 05:49am | #16

   I have a 66 that kept getting stiffer and stiffer....I finally bit the bullet and took off the table to clean it up...It seems that the tilt part is accessible to clean but the elevation is largely not....Soo I squirted some mineral spirits on the screws and the tracks to soften up the very hard white grease...The spirits loosened up everything to better than new...I put some new white grease on the screws and the tracks and  shot the rotating parts with some synthetic motor oil...It doesn't dry up as most oil does...everything is better than new operationally...AND I really didn't have to take the table off to do that stuff...Oh well I got to check and redo all the alignments, which were ok before I did the exercise... 

1. 
   Jimma | Apr 18, 2004 04:16pm | #18

   Thanks. I may try that. So far I've been detoured from dealing with it because of some family stuff and because I'm currently doing some chair rehab work, but soon, soon.

10. 
    UnisawA100 | Apr 19, 2004 03:16am | #19

    If cleaning up the worm gear and rack don't do the trick check the fiber washers.  I just found out yesterday that an extra 1/64" on a fiber washer makes a huge difference when it comes to cranking.

    Keith

11. 
    Gadgetman | Apr 19, 2004 07:06pm | #20

    Hello, all,

    New to this forum.

    I use Amsoil's MP(metal protector) on lots of tools, bikes etc. It has a wax base so it dries.  It seems top keep my contractor's saw working fine.  I also am trying it on my new Delta Mortiser and it seems to eliminate chatter and cuts better.

    It can be used as a rust preventer on large surfaces and many other uses.

    I also use some of their synthetic oil as a cutting oil for sharpening and for drilling in metal. Works amazingly well.

    Hope this is interesting to you,

    Michael B. Ryan

1. 
   Jimma | Apr 19, 2004 10:53pm | #21

   Thanks, Michael, and welcome to Knots. For other topics of interest try the archives, too. Lots of good stuff there.

1. 
   LeeEschen | Apr 20, 2004 12:42am | #22

   I have just about the opposite problem to Jim's. My VERY OLD Craftsman contractor's type table saw (left-tilt, of course) won't hold blade height. It cranks just fine, but vibration will slowly spin the crank while I'm cutting. I've been using a short length of bare, soft aluminum wire to quickly tie it down, but this method won't let me make real fine height adjustments very easily. Does anyone have any ideas for making it hold position better?

   My angle tilt works fine, but I think that the lock for securing the tilt is a real PITA. I have been keeping this saw alive, just barely, for about 12 years now, having stripped it and rebuilt it when I first bought it back then. I hope to replace it in the not too distant future, but, for now, it what I got.

   For when I do, I'm looking seriously at the new Grizzley G5959Z 12" left-tilt. I like the larger table surface and I like being able to use my existing 10" blades, and switch to 12"'ers if I have some 4x4's to cut. Has anybody had any experience with this saw?

   Please don't start up on the left/right-tilt controversy again. I have my reasons and my mind is made up on this point. Don't confuse me with facts.

   Regards,

   --

   Lee in Cave Junction, Oregon;

   Gateway to the Oregon Caves

   Edited 4/19/2004 5:43 pm ET by Lee Eschen

   Edited 4/19/2004 5:44 pm ET by Lee Eschen