I have just purchased a wood lathe and need to build a stand for it. I was thinking of making two square boxes with 2×4 sides, about 14 in. deep, with 1/2 in. plywood covering the top and bottom. Standing these boxes on end I could bolt the lathe to them, and even fill them with sand for additional weight, I’ve read its supposed to help controll vibration. I would also install a shelf, or braceing between them to prevent the whole thing from racking. I am wondering what the proper height for a lathe is, and is this a good Idea?
I have been monitoring the postings here from time to time, but never posted before. Kind’a new to the web in general. Thanks
Bill
Replies
I mounted my lathe to a bench, so that the center- line of the spindle is about in line with my elbows. I don’t remember ever reading what’s the correct way, but this felt comfortable to me.
Thanks Rob, making the working ht. even with the elbows makes sense. I did some elbow bending experiments and think that I would be more comfortable a couple inches lower.
I was surprised to hear from BG and AL that they use wheels on their lathe stands. Wheels would be a big help to me, but thought the lathe would roam around my garage/ shop, so now wheels it is. I have some large size (4in) non locking wheels and will try to think of some way to make them retractable.
I have this week off work and hope to get this project done, thanks to all for the help, I'll let you know how it turns out.
Bill
I built a mobile base for my table saw and used four non-locking wheels. To keep the thing from rolling around the shop when being used I built a brake that lifts the saw off the floor. Look at the attached picture to get a better idea. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words.Scott C. Frankland
Newfoundland Wood Worker
Scott,
that is a terriffic idea !! With all my stuff on wheels, I'm having a hell-of-a-time trying to plane big boards by hand. Your solution has gotta help ! Thanks
I noticed your sawbrake system on the forum. If a person needs to have their equipment on wheels, that is one of the fanciest locking systems I've seen. Thanks, -Tom
Scott: Truly an outstanding rig! But what is the poor guy you swiped the crutch from doing?
Not really sure what he is up to he couldn't keep up with me after I swiped them. The brake is a real simple design that is based on a inline DeStaCo toggle clamp. The whole thing took a couple of hours to build and install. I did a detailed thread on how I built but have been unable to find it.Scott C. Frankland
Newfoundland Wood Worker
I faced the same issue last winter when santa delivered a craftsman lathe. They have a table for about $99 which provided the dimensions(eg. height)for my home grown solution.
I have a small space and therefore need to keep things mobil. I took four 4x4's and put a trapazoid shaped piece abut 6" long between two legs. the slope was abut 12 degrees. I attached the lathe bed directly to the legs, and put two shelves below that with some let in cross bracing. The whole thing is on wheels...and I get to horse it around .... so far, so good...have turned 6" square stock about 30' long....
I too have a small shop and mounted my lathe on a bench I made that could be moved whenever the need arises. I put LOCKING wheels, and that's important, on laminated 2x4 legs. I was told to build a box at the base of the lathe (about 6" off the floor) and fill it with sandbags. Like you said, to reduce vibration which, by the way, works. Especially if you rough out green wood or out of balance blanks.
The top of the stand was constructed of two glued layers of 3/4" plywood...for strength and to maintain flattness. I didn't want any type of "twist" in the bench top.
As far as height is concerned, I built it so that the centerline of the spindle is even with my elbows. Someone else mentioned that and he is correct. It forces you to stand at a comfortable position while concentrating on your "tool work".
I hope this helps. It is very important to have your lathe at a comfortable position for YOU. The result is no cramps in your legs, no back-ache and much less strain on the rest of your body. I also put a pad to stand on in front of the machine. That helps too.
Good luck and keep us posted as to how you are doing!
Hi Bill,
Just a couple more things to add:
I mounted my lathe right up to the front edge of the base, so I don't have to lean over to the work. I put 2" thick wood spacers between the lathe bed and the top. This makes it easier to vacuum out chips and also allows me to set tools down on the top when the turning gets hectic.
Matching spindle height to your elbow is a good starting point. Making it lower than that is ok too; you can always block it up higher if needed. Whatever comfortable to you is right. I happen to like the spindle 4" higher than my elbow. Have fun turning!
Rick
One more point you might consider. From an ergonomic perspective, all cutting boards and typewriters shold be positioned about two inches below the elbow while either standing or sitting. This minimizes stress and helps avoids long term injuries. You might consider building the table so that the center point of the lathe is about 2-4 inches below elbow?
Hi "Woody"
I failed to mention that the wheels I used are LOCKING; all four of them. Also, TREES2DUST had a great idea of putting the lathe a few inches higher on the bench with spacer blocks. Something I will do. Removing chips is a problem if it is not raised.
Mount the lathe a couple of inches below your elbow height. It is easier to raise the lathe, if you have to, than lower it.
Good luck and keep us informed of your progress!
Thanks to everybody very much for all the help. I made the ht. of the spindle center slightly below my elbows, so I can raise it as Al suggested, but it seems fine as it is. Scotts elegant system to stabilize his saw would take me a long time to complete, more time than I have now. I am a very slow woodworker, working evenings and weekends I took 8 months to complete a night stand,very slow.
The lathe stand is built with a leg assembly on each end, but not connected by a bench top so that the shavings just fall on the floor. It's very sturdy I can scooch it around without wheels and will get by without for now. Thanks again
Bill
BG's reference to cutting boards and typewriters being situated 2" below level of elbows is valid (#9 in this thread), but I'd be a little hesitant to place something 4" below. To a certain extent, it's personal preference, but one image to keep in mind that helps me in making these decisions is this: The "reference" position for the hand/forearm/elbow is that position taken when shaking hands (not high-fives, LOL). Any deviation from that position (which of course is necessary when doing most work) produces stress. Most frequently, what we have to do is turn our hand over (typing, serving as a hold-down on a board placed against the miter guage, and so forth). The further above or below that 2" line you go when you're deviating from the handshake, the more stress put on the wrist and elbow, and all the muscles, tendons and ligaments between. These stresses are what result in inflammation and nerve impingement.
How do I know this?? You don't wanna ask. Let's just say, I got to know the surgeons by first name.
And then there's the back....oh, we don't want to go there. But that's why 4" seems low to me. You might have to be stooping a little too much.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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