Replies

1. 
   douglas2cats | Feb 06, 2005 06:03am | #1

   I think you're going to have to finish off the top and bottom of the cut with hand tools. The bulk looks do-able with a router though. It's hard to tell from the pic but  the corner looks completely rounded. I think if you did a stopped cut with a beading bit on both corner faces then extend the groove by hand from one side to the other you'd have the profile in the pic.

    

   If you build it - he will come.

1. 
   SlimShaving | Feb 06, 2005 06:23am | #2

   I should have posted more info. The photo is bad. Its the only one I could find to post, The corner is a "triple bead"?? The big one would require about a 1-1/4 round over. But the little beads (about 1/2 inch) are on a 45 degree angle. I don't know if they would be called beads or not. In the sense that they are not on a 90 degree angle. and I haven't found any router bits that would have the step "quirk"?? at 45 degrees. For as simple as this corner is, it sure has my brain having a cramp.Dave

1. 
   douglas2cats | Feb 06, 2005 06:47am | #3

   Boy. I'm having a tough time reconciling your description and dimensions with the pic. Hopefully someone who's actually done one of these sees your post and can help out. Maybe if you pulled the pic into an editor and added some arrows, and text notes with sizes/angles, etc., it would become more clear to me.If you build it - he will come.

2. 
   Peter36 | Feb 06, 2005 06:50pm | #5

   Hi Dave. Could you draw what this would look like in profile and post that? It would sure help.

2. 
   LeeGrindinger | Feb 06, 2005 06:37pm | #4

   Hmmm, that's a nice treatment. I might have to try that one sometime...

   With the limited tooling you have there is going to be quite a lot of handwork. I think you could use a router for the center round over, then put the smaller beads in by hand with either scratch stock or carving tools. The ends, of course, would have to be done with carving tools. I would think it could be done with a V-tool and a #4, 4mm gouge. You might need a #3, 6 mm for help at the ends.

   Lee

1. 
   SlimShaving | Feb 07, 2005 07:51am | #7

   Lee
   I was hoping you would chime in hear. I've seen your work. I really hate people like you.:) Some beautiful work you do. I think you should try (try is not the correct word in your case) this and then write it up for us all. :) The bottom of the corner is radius'd up just like the top. FWW 132 has the article. Don't know why I didn't put that in from the start. My brain was hurtin enough tryin to figure it out I guess.Dave

1. 
   LeeGrindinger | Feb 07, 2005 05:04pm | #9

   Thanks Dave, I don't subscribe to FWW so I have not seen the article. I'll assume the article does not address the corner....corner treatments for cabinets...., might be an article there. Lee

1. 
   SlimShaving | Feb 08, 2005 06:38am | #11

   Surprised you don't subscribe. The article was about a knock down armoire. A pretty slick system. A post and beam type construction with wooden pegs.I was trying to get in a gallery but "We don't want none of that period stuff" "We only sell European". These people sell some really "bad" furniture for a "lot" of money. So I started to look around for "that" style. Mostly French, Italian. When I saw that edge treatment it seemed elegant and simple. Then I realized it seemed pretty hard too. I'll have to look around at commercial stuff. Maybe I can figure it out. By the way it has a continuous bead around the base and feet to. So it must be all hand work.Dave

1. 
   hammer1 | Feb 08, 2005 04:08pm | #13

   I asked about the beaded aprons a while back, got some guesses but I figured it out with a little practice. It's deceptively easy. Start with your stock oversize. Shape the bead with a scratch stock. Cut off the bead, the band saw can exit in several places. Plane the apron to thickness and glue the cut off bead back on. The missing kerf material makes up for the exit cuts and you don't have to do any fitting. Even if the band saw cut isn't perfect, the bead fits right back where it was cut. Great looking detail, the only hard part is shaping the bead. You may want to figure the stock extra thick, so you can plane equal amounts off the front and back to prevent warping, but still allow enough to remove the groove left by the scratch stock.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

3. 
   Patto | Feb 07, 2005 02:59am | #6

   Dave,

   Probably like Lee said, but you might consider referencing the scratch stock from the other sideof the stick. Could also be done with a small reeding blade in a Stanley 45 or 55, lots of money for a single job though. Still need to carve the ends.

   I had thought this company had used a similar style: http://www.grange.fr can't find the example, but well worth the look for French style.

4. 
   SlimShaving | Feb 07, 2005 07:54am | #8

   Everybody Check FWW 132 for the article. Brain cramp here should have put this in from the start. Thanks for the replies so far

   Dave

5. 
   hammer1 | Feb 07, 2005 05:58pm | #10

   The profile can be cut on a shaper with the appropriate knifes. It is likely done with a pass on each side rather than one full pass. Obviously you need a long fence with a start and stop block. The intersection at the point will likely need some hand work. Some of the multi profiled router bits may have a section that would be adaptable to the shape. Some of these more complicated profiles are easier to accomplish with over head pin routers and templates. A template with a hand held router could be an option also.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

6. 
   VomSorb | Feb 08, 2005 03:42pm | #12

   Chris Gochnour did an article on this, search the archives, it was about building furniture with a French influence.  Combination of router work and hand work.