Replies

1. 
   musick | Apr 16, 2003 09:14pm | #1

   We.....lllll, like many things, it depends. For the most accurate jointing with the least amount of waste, the laws of physics would dictate only a board as long as the INFEED table. With that said you can do longer boards of course, but you will simply be removing a greater percentage of the wood, and it will require more passes and the less likely you'll be able to produce a perfectly flat surface. Also with the longer boards is where good technique can really make a big difference. With good/level/co-planer supports at both ends of the jointer you can continue to increase the length of lumber you're capable of jointing up to what you're physically able to handle and get adequate results for many projects.

   With all that said the shorter the piece, the less waste and the flatter the jointed surface will be, assuming all other things are equal.

2. 
   pauld | Apr 17, 2003 02:31am | #2

   Loogadit,

   I use a simple test to determine what I can safely run across my jointer: I place the board on the outfeed table with one end positioned close to the cutterhead, in other words, in the same position it'll be in immediately after I've completed jointing. If it feels sale and well-balanced, I proceed. If it feels "tippy" and unsafe, I set up one (or more) outfeed rollers to augment my outfeed table.

   In my experience, it's the mass of the board you're jointing that dictates what you can safely and comfortably mill, not its length.

   Good luck,

   Paul

3. 
   DaveHeinlein | Apr 17, 2003 04:47am | #3

   I aree with Paul about the weight being the determining factor in how long a board can be straightened on a 6" jointer. The longest I have been able to successfully straighten is 10'.

4. 
   fdampier5 | Apr 17, 2003 04:28pm | #4

   if you are clever you can do a very long board.. the clever part comes from building infeed/ outfeed tables to support your work..

     try this method of quick and cheap tables.

     use a reasonable flat piece as long as you feel is needed.  cut four legs slightly longer than you need.   Align one edge with the end of the infeed table.  (I found when I work alone I use a couple of clamps and a straight edge to help with the fact that I was only born with the use of two hands and it seems as if alignement requires several more)

     With the one end tempoary proped up in place I go to the far end and align it.  (nowdays to show off my new lazer I use that but before I used to use a tight string,, I'd gently lower it down untill the string just kisses the edge of the infeed table)  At that point I put the legs on the outside of the board.  A nail gun is fastest but I've done nice accurite work using a screw gun.. whatever don't try to pound them in, the jarring will move things around tooo much.

     Then go to the front of the board and put in the front legs   If I'm gonna be doing a lot of boards or heavy boards I'll brace the legs (agian using nail gun or screws) 

          On my 8 inch jointer, I've been able to joint 19 foot long timbers (and my bed is only 65 inches long total) using this method. It helps if you use a smooth board and paste wax heavily.  If I'm doing a run of more than five timbers I'll stop and give it another coat of paste wax.. (Since it's not a beauty  part I'm willing to use turtle wax, 'cause I've got it laying around)

         The sweetheart part of this method is if your floor isn't level it doesn't matter.  since the legs are on the outside of the infeed/outfeed planks they are easy to set at exactly the correct hieght.. Who cares if one leg is 19"&37/64ths and another 20"& 1/16ths?  All you go for is level.  I don't use any measuring device building these contraptions and they work.  When I'm done I knock them down and stack the parts with the rest of the wood.. It's gotten so I can build these inside of five minutes.. for the pair..