I know I sound lame, but it makes so little sense to keep telling us to let our finish dry overnight. If I put a coat on in the morning, surely I can put a second coat on sooner than overnight. Can I assume that overnight always means about 8 hours?
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Replies
The short answer is no; but, I do feel your pain.
There are just too many variables: different types of finish, shop humidity and temperature, whether you applied a thin or thick coat…; and dry to the touch is not the same as fully-cured. Also, there is a high cost if you get it wrong.
Manufacturer's labeling should specify re-coat and fully-cured times in hours... be generous.
Water-borne products dry quickly, and typically have a 4-6 hour re-coat times... some will be as little as 2 hours (an acrylic vs a urethane). Oil-based finishes, especially urethanes, take time; and seem to be more sensitive to temperature and humidity - I had a Waterlox finish that just wouldn't dry.
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If I put on boiled linseed oil, I wait a week. Yesterday, I brushed 2 coats of Sealcoat and 2 coats of GF High Performance in one day. As noted above, it really depends on the finish, the environment, and sometimes even the wood.
well if you need a more exact answer, they'd have to specify the temperature, humidity, air circulation conditions, etc., with a chart. So "overnight" leaves it up to your judgment and experience. Minimum of eight hours? Maybe, but thats not a substitute for actual conditions. They could just advise "the longer the better".
I agree that instruction to let things set "overnight" is a method of preventing the impatient from getting themselves into trouble. Knowing your materials and some experience will allow you to judge intervals for yourself.
In my sunny desert basin I sand and reapply shellac in 30 minutes or less. Oil varnish blends vary with their ingredients. When made with oils with metallic solvents, 24 hours is about right.
For thicker oils or blends with larger oil to carrier ratios one may wait a week or more for the curing process to reach the point where the next steps can be taken. For oil finishes that use a flooding method, multiple weeks can be required.
The point is, do not disregard specific instructions but, general statements like "let dry" or "overnight" are recommendations that one adjusts through experience. Most of all, enjoy the journey.
All good advice. And thank you for not calling me lame. I'm applying a rubbing varnish over de-waxed shellac. Shellac hardens in minutes, but I'm reading Mario Rodriguez's recommendation of waiting overnight to use the varnish. I actually waited about 8 hours, and all's well. In the past I've waited an hour or two, and that has gone well also. Same temperature and humidity.
Thanks again for your help.
I dont trust shellac to be dry that fast. I've had it take a few hours, especially if not fresh. If you touch it and leave a fingerprint, its not ready. I'll leave the last coat "overnight" before touching it.
Shellac drying time is almost totally in function of the application method. Applied thinned down french polish style with a pad takes minutes and applied old and thick with a brush or rag takes hours. Some French polish recipies do allow for an overnight dry between steps.
Just to follow on Gulfstar's advice on shellac, I've found similar things. My initial "flood" coat I put on with a brush and wait overnight. But once I start in with the pad and a 2lb cut, I find 10 minutes is good most of the time; that can be the amount of time it takes to coat the piece if it's larger. But occasionally I do notice it's still a tad tacky and I have to wait 20 or more minutes.
When I'm doing a French polish and I'm going to finish up with a felt block with soap and pumice, I first wait at least a day, sometimes two. Although the shellac may be dry, I want it fully hardened, too.
I often use an HVLP sprayer with waterborne finishes. I use very light coats and recoat every 4-8 hours. Again, depending on humidity, temp, etc.
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