Replies

1. 
   jonsherryl | Sep 24, 2003 05:15pm | #1

   Ash is a relatively easy wood to air dry, provided you bring down the surface moisture content quickly by ensuring that it has plenty of airflow during the first few weeks. This is essential because ash has very poor decay resistance and bluestains, if the surface is allowed to remain moist for very long.

   The bad news is it is doubtful that even the 4/4 stock you intend to dry will be acceptably seasoned in only 6 months...espectially in a climate like Vermont's. The rule of thumb (which is only the crudest of guidelines anyway) is that a wood should be allowed to air dry one year for each inch of thickness. In reality, this varies anywhere from just a few months to well over a year, depending upon both the species of wood and the climate.

   If you're in a hurry to get this project underway, you might want to think about having the lumber kiln dried. Especially the heavy stock.

1. 
   riverr1 | Sep 24, 2003 05:44pm | #2

   Kgetch,

   I agree ash is a better wood for air drying, but 6 months would really depend on the climate wouldn't it? I'm also of the belief that any air dried wood should dry at least one full year at a minimum to go through the full range of seasons. Just my opinion here.

   Don

   Edited 9/24/2003 10:46:51 AM ET by Don C.

1. 
   jonsherryl | Sep 24, 2003 06:14pm | #3

   Yes, species, climate and thickness are the three key variables...assuming the drying setup (stickers, airflow, protection from rain, snow, etc) is handled correctly.

   These "how soon will it dry" questions are hard to deal with. I guess sometimes there is a real timing problem that must be addressed, such as getting a project made from a special wood done in time to present it as a gift on a special date...But it sure does violate the primary axiom of air drying, i.e., THE WOOD WILL NEVER GET TOO DRY. This is one aspect of the woodworking craft where patience is the supreme virtue and overkill is virtually impossible. 

1. 
   riverr1 | Sep 24, 2003 06:22pm | #4

   Right on John. I think you nailed it in your original post in suggesting finding a kiln. The poster should also bear in mind if heshje goes this route to buy the kiln process to a predetermined moisture content, otherwise heshe will more then likely get the top end of the scale to make room in the kiln.

   Don

2. 
   woodtogo | Sep 25, 2003 12:48am | #5

   Jon,

   Is black walnut a good wood to air dry?  I have come across about 400 ft. and would like to dry it in a shed?   Thanks.....

   Ray

1. 
   DavidxDoud | Sep 25, 2003 01:14am | #7

   Is black walnut a good wood to air dry?

   it'll dry just fine,  and the color will be richer than kiln dried material - - remember,  unless you are in an arid climate, your shed is likely not as dry as your house,  so further movement might be expected....

2. 
   jonsherryl | Sep 25, 2003 04:04pm | #9

   Woodman, I'd second David D's comments on air dried walnut. Walnut has excellent drying characteristics. First, it's exceptionally decay resistant, so bluestaining isn't a problem. Second, it has a very low T/R ratio (the differential between its tangential and radial shrinkage, green to ovendry, is only 1.42 to 1) so it has a very low tendency to cup or distort while it seasons.

   ...But the big reward in air drying walnut is that the resulting stock is nicer than what you get when you buy walnut that has been commercially presteamed and then kiln dried. Air drying peserves some of the wood's very attractive red and purple highlights. They eventually fade with exposure to light, but they're pretty while they last. Also, the wood seems to retain a darker, rich brown heartwood color (as opposed to the slightly grayish hue KD walnut typically exhibits.) You have to trim off the sapwood, which is a little wasteful, but the remaining stock is much nicer. It even has a waxier feel, nicer scent, and better, less brittle, shaping characteristics.

   Air dried walnut also bends better. This isn't a critical attribute in most cabinetmaking applications, but I make dulcimers, so it's an important plus for me. I'm not a purist when it comes to air drying everything, though. In fact, I use a lot of KD woods, which are better in some applications...but when it comes to walnut, I much prefer thoroughly air dried stock.  

1. 
   kgetch | Sep 25, 2003 07:01pm | #10

   Hi all!

   Thanks to everyone for the responses. Great info! I am a capable newbie to the craft but have never air dried my own wood.

   I buy kiln dried rough and take it from there.

   I am in no hurry to begin the project but I believe my Father in Law might be. He is used to "cut it and build" wet. 

   This is how they built barns, outbuildings, etc on the farm. I suppose it is OK for rough construction but I'm not comfortable building a piece of furniture that way.

   I'll do it if he wants, but I'd be surprised if it holds up.

   I'll pass this info along to him and suggest he find someone local with a kiln.

1. 
   jazzdogg | Sep 26, 2003 02:34am | #11

   You might want to use some of this stock and try your hand at green chair building. You could end up with a nice chair and some valuable experience working green wood while you're waiting for the rest of the stock to dry sufficiently for casework.

2. 
   Crunk | Sep 26, 2003 04:27pm | #12

   If you use the wet lumber to build furniture (other than certain types of chairs) you will have an unmitigated disaster on your hands.

   Edited 9/26/2003 5:28:53 PM ET by BossCrunk

2. 
   DavidxDoud | Sep 25, 2003 01:10am | #6

   while I agree with others comments about drying,  design plays a part - - a simple carcase where there is no cross grain structures (breadboard ends,  for example) can shrink or swell with not much practical effect - - similarly,  frame and panel doors minimize the effects of shrinkage opposed to solid panel doors - - - so it might be reasonable to stack and sticker your lumber inside thru this winter and make the center next spring and get by with it - - your 12/4 material should be quarter grained so as not to dry to an out of square condition as it would not be to equilibrium in a few months - - 1" ash should dry readily in a heated space over winter -

3. 
   biosf1 | Sep 25, 2003 03:26am | #8

   The advice the others have given are good, but their are things to consider when air drying. I'm a  self employed furniture builder and I have air dried most of the lumber I use and have found that air dried lumber is more stable and with careful attention when stickering the lumber and weighting it down will prevent cupping and or warping, also the climate will be a big factor. Like the others asked , are you in a hurry to start building this project. Number one thing to think about is the direction of the wood going to be stacked? And why is this you say an important factor? The reason is , you don't stack the lumber so that the ends are facing the direction the wind comes from the most, The end should be coated with ether a heavy coat of paint or wax to prevent from checking,if this is not done you will loose at least 2" of lumber at each end, I use spray undercoating used for cars.  Next your lumber should be stacked on ties or something strong enough to hold the weight load , 4" to 6" off the ground, I'm sure you know how to sticker lumber,so I won't go into detail on that, but I do put my sticks every 12"to 14" apart, some recommend 18" to 24".  And I turn the lumber over every 3 to 6 months. Making sure the edge that was facing the west is now  toward the east, then I cover the stack just on the top to keep the weather and rain off, and have it so the rain will run off on to grass or gravel , so the rain will not splash back up on your wood. I have air dried  red oak, cherry, ash ,Maple and walnut this way. I even keep it stored out side this way,but I cover it even around the sides  in the winter, I bring enough in the shop about 2 weeks before I use it in the winter. If you have any more questions , feel free to contact me:  [email protected]