I’m building a workbench based on the Fortune/Nelson bench from the (most excellent) plans in The Workbench Book. I figure that once I’m finished I’ll have developed enough skills to put it to good use.
The plans call for a double-wedged through tenon to attach the trestle to the base. Having never made a wedged tenon before, I’m wondering how much flair the mortise needs? Also, would two floating (non-wedged) tenons be an acceptable alternative?
Thanks for all the inspiration and education I’ve gotten from reading through these forums!
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A lot of the answer depends on size of the joint,species,etc.I would say a good starting point would be to flare the mortise on each side slightly more than the kerf created where the wedge will go.Making a test joint is a good practice if you are unsure.Its a bit of a balancing act . Not too much as to crack the tenon, not too little to no effect.
Sounds reasonable. Thanks.
Hopefully the picture is better than the words.
View Image
From: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/articles/mortiseandtenon.cfm near the bottom of the page.
Great picture, tho slightly caricaturized - the angle looks pretty extreme.We have made some doors with blind mortised wedged tenons at only 2°. that is a bear to get just right or it will never clamp togehter!
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Well, I can't claim any credit for the drawing; I just thought it might be useful to answer the original question. Below the drawing they mention 1 in 8, which, God help me, if my math is correct is 12.5 degrees or does that refer to the slope on the wedge vs the mortise?
sounds steep to me but maybe for softwood???
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It may be...reading the section on the above-referenced website does not make it clear eather. oh well, hopefully the picture gets the idea accross:)
at only 2°..I have used them in doors I have made (but not always).. 2 degrees sounds about right.. It does not take much to keep it tight. The sharper the angle the harder it is to make... And Not needed.. But then again I'm not a expert.. I just do what works!I usually used square pins unless the customer did not like the look.
I have florescent lights for overall shop lighting but I use my portable light stand more than any thing else. I built it as adjustable metal frame attached to a mobile base. It is wired with several plugs. I attache various types of lights to it (florescent, soft white, spot, white light, yellow light, etc. I find this most useful in that I can vary the type and direction of the light, combine types of lights. I find it most useful in relief caring and in finishing. But I also use when setting up saws, checking the sharpness on plane irons, carving chisels and finding small items I have dropped on the floor. I also have a ligted magnifying light - A sign of the time in my life.
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