I’m in the process of setting up a basement workshop. The workshop area is on the small side (20′ x 10′), the walls are made of cinder block, and two of the walls are exterior walls. The house itself is at least 60 years old. I’ve painted the cinder block with Dry-Lok. I am now thinking about the best strategy for hanging things on the walls.
I was thinking about attaching 2×2’s or 2×4’s to the cinder block with Tapcon screws and then 3/4 plywood to the 2×2’s/2×4’s, which would give me the most flexibility overall for hanging cabinets, tool racks, etc. I am hesitant to build a framing wall because I have read that due to the age of the house, it would be problematic to attach the floor plate to the concrete because of concrete brittleness, and because of the way that wires and pipe are running across the ceiling in my basement, attaching the top plate to the ceiling would also be problematic.
What I don’t know is how much stuff I can hang off the wall with the Tapcon-2×2-3/4″ plywood system. Specifically, I’m worried about something like a lumber rack being too much of a load for a setup like this.
Also, one of the exterior walls has always been a little damp, though I’ve never had real water in the basement. I’ve mediated the outside as much as I can, and the Dry-Lok has taken care of the rest. But should I be worried about screwing 2x material into a cinder block wall that used to be a little damp?
Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
Replies
If you are worried, then build a frame that does not touch the cinder block. (free-standing) The bottom plate can be attached with screws into plugs drilled into the floor. The floor will support this. Build the frame from 2 x 4, 16 inch on center, and put the top plate below the piping. Use dead men to lock the framing to the joists (on an angle). You can then attach your plywood to the framing. This will support whatever you hang on it. JL
Edited 2/26/2007 7:21 pm ET by jeanlou
Here's my lumber rack, mounted on a wall that's mostly cinder block, with some wood framing in the top ~2.5'. You'll see that the 2x4's rest on the floor, are anchored to the CB's with brackets and special screws (can't remember the brand), and there's a "header" across the top to provide extra holding power.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
forestgirl
You do a mean job on the photo markup and explanations. Great! JL
Wilbur -
I have a basement shop with cinderblock walls, too. I would be concerned about the dampness, because it might indicate that the block is filling with water (from some hole on the exterior side).
Tapcons or any other device that put a hole on the interior side could result in a leaky wall. We've had this problem, though we get leaks only when the rain is extremely bad or the ground is super saturated. But when it does rain this hard, we get a steady small stream that will put a 1/4" of water on the floor (and ruin any MDF jigs sitting down there).
I agree with the other posters -- build a wall that fits tight between ceiling and floor. My wood rack was built this way (and looks very much like forestgirls, except even messier).
Paul
Paul
He mentioned that due to pipes and other obstructions, he could not go all the way up to the ceiling. That is why I suggested he build the wall shorter and use deadmen to attach the wall to the joists. JL
I also have a "dry" basement wall, 28' along the side of the house, which was bone dry for 20 + years. I repainted with a quality latex, only to encounter the big surprise - a very wet year caused significant blistering of the old and new paint. I want to repaint, but wonder how to remove ALL of the loose paint and clean the surface, preferably with power. Recessed mortar joints are involved. Thx.
In this situation, dry for so long, dry lock masonary paint might wor...Jimmy
GADJ
Have you tried heat? Heat guns usually do a good job removing paint. If you have a fire extinguisher at hand you might also try a propane torch. Careful when you approach the ceiling, floor and trim. It is why the heat gun is preferable. JL
PS You have a situation that needs addressing; water infiltration. This is not good in the long term for the building, and potentially a health hazard.
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