I’m working with 3.25 wide fir that’s just under 3/4 thick and wondering if resawing is an option. With stock this narrow, it would be nice to have the ‘mirror’ effect (blanking on the correct term here). It would be used in a wainscoting panel so I could treat it as a veneer with mdf backing.
Too much work?
thx
Replies
Steve,
It is entirely possible to bookmatch the fir that you have. Resawing it in half would make for some mighty thick veneer, so I would either make it thinner or skip the MDF backer. No, it's not too much work.
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- Success is not the key to happiness. Happiness is the key to success. If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer
Chris is right on. If using it as veneer you really want about 1/16" thick--and to remember to do both sides of the MDF. Veneered to a substate that's enough to be really durable over a long term. Remember, commercial veneer is less than half that thick, often much less. And, sawn veneer looks like wood even when bookmatched in a way in which sliced and especially rotary does not. (With sliced, there is an open and closed side that become side by side when flipped for book matching that can dramatically change the chatoyance, an effect not always wanted.)
js,
If you resaw , after surfacing you may have a tad more then 1/4" thickness , you could use frame and panel construction and let the panel float in the frame .
As Chris has suggested the resawn thickness backed with MDF may not allow the Fir panel to move and it will move , some .
regards dusty , boxmaker
Thankx to all. So if i go the frame and panel route - is the panel glueup any different than thicker stock?much appreciated
js, The glue up will be more delicate and depending on the width may have the tendency to buckle or otherwise not lay flat without the use of some cauls or other method to keep flat during glue up.
If you are talking a panel 36" wide and tall , you can glue up sections of manageable widths , you must have a way to surface after glue up , by hand tool or wide belt no matter think about the capacity of what is available .
The panel will move across the width as a piece of lumber will so , allow for this seasonal movement in your design.
regards dusty ,boxmaker
Steve,I believe you mean book matched ,so would these pieces be glued together? or will they simply be attached side by side ? how many pieces are you talking about?could you explain your plan a bit more.
Dan
If you resaw it, rather than hoping it stays flat, you can laminate the fir to some other lumber. The lumber will breathe with humidity the same way the veneer does, and thus will be more stable than an MDF backing. You just have to remember to treat the laminated lumber like real wood -- leave space for expansion and contraction across the grain.
A panel as thin as 1/4 inch thick will be more than strong enough for the wainscoting, so there isn't a structural problem. As others have said, veneers need to be thin and should be applied to both sides of the core, a lot of additional work.
John White
Shop manager for FWW Magazine 1998-2007
I would say resawing on a bandsaw is always an option if you can do it safely.
And if you have a planner all the better!
But a TEST IS ADVISED!
Fir 'WILL cup' depending on what you have.
Anybody can correct my words! I have tough skin and hardly ever get mad at anybody but myself!..
I have only made one so my mileage to yours may differ.
Fir glued to 1/2 inch MDF. The bottom of the MDF was about one inch above the floor.
Room for 'fitting' to the floor without water wicking that makes MDF ( Or most woods ) do strange things... And the Fir never in floor contact.. Maybe 1/4 inch? OK, so just above floor contact in all places.
I love LASAR levels!
Too much work? ??
We, as humans, do it every day and never even think about it!
I used construction glue to fix the MDF panels.
Edited 7/21/2009 10:52 am by WillGeorge
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