Replies

1. 
   Telemike | Dec 07, 2005 08:36am | #1

   One of the "second tier" woodworking magazines recently had an article on making a chuck for wine stopper type turnings. The chuck fit on a 3" faceplate. It was made of hard maple or something similar. The chuck used a ring sliding up and down a tapered body to close down the collet that held the dowel.

   The author's contention was that the regular drill chuck ruined about 1" of the dowel each time. To get around that ruined one inch, you had to leave the wine stopper body proud of the chuck by about 1" magnifying any play in the system.

   Sorry that I can't remember the magazine; I've already given it away. I did buy an extra faceplate to mount one on and I remember how to do it.

   PS: second tier magazine means one that is not finewoodworking or woodwork.

2. 
   ned7 | Dec 07, 2005 07:16pm | #2

   I agree that a chuck would be better. Using a dowel as you describe is a good idea. I have an older Nova chuck, the only problem is that the jaws might not close down as small as a small dowel. I cannot remember what the minimum size my jaws can take, maybe 1/4" with the small jaws? Of course, if you already have the chuck, and do not want to spend more money, you can choose a larger dowel.

   For things like this, I use a collet chuck. Craft Supplies USA sells two different ones at http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/catalog/chucks.html. I expect there is one that fits your lathe.

3. 
   DennisS | Dec 08, 2005 07:33am | #3

   As Ned says - a collet chuck is the way to go for this type of turning. The dowel part of the stopper is a consistent size so you only need one collet chuck. They're sold in specific sizes. The advantage of a collet chuck over an ordinary drill chuck is that the jaws of the collet chuck conform almost precisely to the diameter of the dowel. A drill or ordinary Jacobs chuck's jaws are profiled to fit a variety of drill shank sizes and end up putting indentations in the dowel due to their shape.

   It's a simple matter to make a collet chuck, actually. Take a large dowel, say 1 1/4" or so for holding a 1/4" dowel, drill a 1/4" hole in the center (do this on the lathe with the dowel mounted in your scroll chuck and the drill chuck mounted in the tail stock). On the band saw, or carefully by hand, cut slots across the end of the chuck down to the depth of the hole you just drilled. Best bet is to drill some strain relief holes at the base of these saw kerfs to minimize splitting but it's not always needed.

   Get yourself a hose clamp to fit around your chuck, slip your wine stopper dowel into the chuck and tighten the hose clamp. Pay attention to the orientation of the hose clamp so you don't have the free end or tail turning towards you. It's enough of a knuckle buster as it is. But with care it's not too bad.

   If your dowel chuck won't clamp down on the stopper blank dowel enough, try turning some of the outside of the chuck away to give it a bit more flexibility.

   You'll find that if you try to remount this in your regular chuck you'll probably have a hard time getting it to run true. Best method is to buy a tap for cutting threads that match your lathe spindle. Then drill and tap a large piece of hardwood so you can screw it directly onto the lathe. Then turn and drill the blank to make the collet chuck as described above. This won't always run exactly true but moreso than when remounting in a scroll chuck.

1. 
   A35335 | Dec 08, 2005 12:53pm | #4

   Thanks for the note, good stuff.Since I don't have a scroll chuck, was wondering about either an Axminster or Beall collet chuck. Any preference between these? I guess that a scroll chuck would be more versatile in that I could "make" it into a collet chuck per your post, but looks like the collet chuck would be quicker/cleaner/truer?Thanks again.Rich

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 08, 2005 07:14pm | #6

   Actually, Rich, I don't own a collet chuck. Whenever I've had to hold stuff that would require a collet chuck I've just made something like I described. And yes, I think in the long run getting a scroll chuck would open up lots more opportunities.That said, Beall seems to get pretty good press.

2. 
   ned7 | Dec 08, 2005 05:58pm | #5

   Hey Dennis,
   Just wanted to say, that is a cool idea. I will try that for some larger sizes than I have right now.

1. 
   DennisS | Dec 08, 2005 07:17pm | #7

   One thing I forgot to mention was that a home made collet or jamb chuck needs to be turned into pretty straight end grain. If you decide to make a threaded on version make sure there's plenty of meat around the part that threads onto the spindle. No sense running the risk of having the thing fly apart at 2000+ rpm and wearing part of it in your forehead.If it doesn't seem safe, don't do it!

4. 
   Jeffnv | Dec 12, 2005 03:18pm | #8

   I made a lot of wine stoppers for Christmas three years ago. When doing so I read about glueing in the dowel and then holding it. Well the problem with that was I was such an amateur turner that I got catches that broke the dowel. So what I did was cut the head off a bolt that was the size of the dowel and put it in a drill chuck then drilled the hole in the blank and threaded it on to the bolt. This worked great and once the stopper was turned glued the dowel and cork on. Good luck with your stoppers.

1. 
   A35335 | Dec 13, 2005 12:34am | #9

   Jeff,That sounds like a great idea.What size bolt did you use? Wonder if a machine thread would work, might be better for when you glue in the dowel? Was the hole drilled in such a way so that when you removed it, you could just glue the dowel in without enlarging the hole?Thanks.Rich

1. 
   Jeffnv | Dec 13, 2005 03:43pm | #10

   I found a bolt the same size as the dowel. So when the turning was done the hole was ready for the dowel to be glued in. Cut the head off the bolt and put it in the drill chuck. Drill the hole in the blank and then thread it on the bolt and your ready to turn.Hope this helps. Jeff

1. 
   Knothead05 | Dec 14, 2005 06:38am | #11

   I've made dozens of stoppers as gifts and I no longer use dowels, bolt, or anything...that's just an extra needless step.  Select your piece of wood for the stopper, but cut it about an inch and a half longer than usual.  Turn it round between centers to the maximum diameter of your stopper design.  Then chuch that round into a jaw chuck about 1" and turn the stopper as you would otherwise.  When you've finished the upper part, apply the finish, then turn the bottom part to 1/2" or whatever fits your cork or plastic stopper fitting.  It's simple to turn the straight "dowel" integrated with the upper part.  Then just part it off at whatever length you need to glue to the cork.  Much faster than fooling around with drilling dowels, etc., and you can keep the stem hefty (to account for catches) until the very end.

5. 
   darbynwoods | Dec 15, 2005 01:19am | #12

   I make about 100 a month.  here is what i do.

   I buy from a suppler the same wine stoppers that woodcraft sells.

   I took a 1/4" 20 thread rod and cut it about 1.5" long

   i got connecting bolts (3 for $1.00) from home depot and ca the bolt in with enough space to put 2 nuts at the end.  i put this in a drill chuck on my lathe.  the outside 8 sided nut gives me a tight hold on the rod and in the chuck.

   I drill an 10mm hole in the wood blank

   i ca a course threaded insert into the wood

   then i put it on the lathe and turn and finish the stopper.

   since i use the chrome stopper with a 1/4 20 thread all i do is put it on the stopper.

   This way i can turn(and just turn) about 100 in a day.

    

   this also works if i use a different rod to do drawer pulls.

   Hope this helps

   David

   http://www.darbynwoods.com

1. 
   user-20323 | Dec 21, 2005 07:17am | #13

   Little Machine Shop has 3/8 collets for #2MT for $9. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1749
   You’ll need a piece of 3/8x16tpi threaded rod, nut and washers for a drawbar.If you are making a stopper with a real cork just glue the dowel on the wood and put the dowel in the collet. If you are making one with a metal cork then, if it’s soothe, make a pin chuck from some 3/8 rod and a piece of nail. If it’s threaded make an arbor from a 3/8 bolt and screw the wood on it with a nut as a backer.