Hi,
I’ve built a Cherry aquarium stand and I’m having some trouble getting the final appearance I’d like. What I’m after is something that is a shade lighter than the darkness of the popular espresso finishes but with an undertone of aged cherry. Basically I’d like a hint of the deep red in a primarily dark finish.
I’ve experimented with the accellerated aging of drano/sodium hydroxide, since Drano isn’t pure Na-OH, I’m either going to need to find pure lye/sodium hydroxide or potassium dichromate (photo processor). In general I really like the result, but the odd piece of wood comes out quite orange and not so nice, also, the cherry plywood used on the sides basically just goes to a dark brown with very, very little red.
I’ve also experimented with a number of stain and oil combinations without much success in attaining a dark colour.
Any ideas? I’ve attached a photo of the cabinet minus the doors to give you some idea. Please excuse the bad photo.
Replies
To get an undertone of red I would suggest you try a dye. It can be a water or NGR type.
If you use a water dye, raise the grain first with water and then sand it smooth. The dye will give you a foundation color which you can then over stain as you wish. With either type of dye you can go straight over it with an oil stain if you'd like.
There are a variety of companies that sell dyes. The ones I'm most familiar with are W.D. Lockwood's. For a reddish undertone a couple you might consider are;
Scarlet #357 or Bordeaux #405. These are both metal complex dyes and are water soluble. You can purchase them in one ounce packages if you wish. The Bordeaux color has a hint of blue to it which will help knock down any orange tones that you are getting. (Blue is the complimentary color to orange)
There are also Orasol dyes available that are soluble in methanol , denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner according to the color. These will produce an NGR dye. Be careful with these as they are extremely concentrated colors.
You can also layer your water dyes. Put your first color on and lightly wipe it. As the dye starts to dry the surface will start to dull down. This is when I like to hit it with a second color. If you apply it when the first color is completely dry, it will reactivate the first color and "pull" it.
Lockwood can be reached in New York at;
212-966-4046 or 212-226-2878
Concerning the plywood; Any chemical treatment unless diluted heavily will turn it dark or even black.
You're doing the right thing by making samples on something other than your project. Take a little time and experiment with some dyes. You might find these are the answer to what you are visually looking for.
Let me know what you come up with.
Peter
Thanks very much Peter, that gives me something to work with. In my looking about I've read and reread the article here:
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011130046.pdf
It covers methods to finish cherry while avoiding blotching, the article advocates the use of oil/shellac or dye/shellac pairings. The second method seems a bit more on the mark.
Am I correct in assuming that dye won't show the blotchiness that stains will? And that the shellac's function is to seal the surface so that it may be stained upon without the blotchiness?
I really appreciate your help and I'm looking forward to giving it a try!
I've since found some aniline dyes from Lee Valley, I bought their cabernet-ish and cherry wood dyes dry in hopes that they'll mix to a successful tint. In the mean time I'm still finishing the project when time permits. I thought I'd post a couple pics of how things are going.
Well, I've long since finished the stand and canopy, I thought I'd post a few pics and a link to the fishy details:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/general-planted-tank-discussion/64722-new-tank-up-running-carniverous-plants.html#post590593
Overall I'm really happy with the finished product, it basically accelerated the natural Cherry aging process. Now that its finished the aging can also take its natural path and hopefully darken things just a bit more.
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