Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 13, 2004 08:43am | #1

   Rod, Use flat head machine screws (brass) and counter sink the outer face of the wood fence. I would use 1/4- 28 screws, as they'll have more threads  securing the wood to the thin section of the fence.

   While you're at it, drill and tap additional holes for use when you make (And use) a sacrifical full length fence.

   Or, a two piece jointer fence .Rear section beyond the blade 1/32"  thicker than forward fence.

   Also when you drill the metal fence drill all the way through and tap holes on both sides. Now you can attach the wood pieces to EITHER side. Stein.

   
   

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   Edited 1/13/2004 12:48:16 AM ET by steinmetz

1. 
   Indigo1557 | Jan 14, 2004 05:43am | #5

   Stein - why would the rear fence be 1/32 thicker?

   Alison

1. 
   wrudiger | Jan 14, 2004 07:37am | #6

   Ive gone with the bolt-to-the-top jig approach.  Allows me to add a number of attachments, including sliding high fence for cutting tenons.  I filled in the space on top with a milled board to keep everything flat, and used 3/8 - 24 bolts as the metal is kinda thin (and I had those bolts and tap on hand...).  Once you have that base you can do all kinds of cool things - see Jim Tolpin's "Table Saw Magic" book - including the short fence (which you have now inspired me to build).

   Wayne

2. 
   Steinmetz | Jan 14, 2004 01:47pm | #7

   Alison, using the two fence system you are essentialy jointing a board

    After set up, you feed the rough board along the nearest (forward) fence

   Since the blade is set to just skim a mere 1/32", the forward(shaved) edge of the work has to rest and slide on the thicker (rearward) fence to maintain contact

   Of course, the forward fence can be thicker, (Up to the blades thickness) if you choose to shave more agressivly.

   I use a two fence system on my router table , but the rearward fence is adjustable and can be returned back to it's original  in-line orientation   Steinmetz

2. 
   rod | Jan 14, 2004 11:19pm | #8

   To all,

   Thanks for your replies.  I made the u-channel short fence -- I put two 1/4 in T-nuts (inset) on the inside of the right hand face as insurance that it wouldn't move when ripping.  I will make a more perminant short rip fence after I get used to them.  Stein's reply helped me solve another problem.  I have an adjustable outfeed roller with stripped threds in the height adjust ment hole.  I will drill and tap it with a fine thread and then use a brass machine screw to make the handle.  Now I would have more confidence in drilling and tapping the top of the Beismeyer fence to secure an add on fence.  Thanks again,

   Rod

2. 
   TomT226 | Jan 13, 2004 03:02pm | #2

   Built several fences for my Bessie. Built a "U" channel that slips over the fence, and uses "quick clamps" at either end. Just make sure that what ever clamps you use won't project into the path of the work.

   After you finish, make a sticker to put on the back indicating the correction to the inside face of what ever blade(s) you plan on using.

3. 
   jako17 | Jan 13, 2004 03:54pm | #3

   I believe that bies make a bracket system to do just what you are looking for.Try their site

4. 
   notDusty | Jan 14, 2004 05:35am | #4

              Rod ,

       I have been using the wood U - channel type for many years. It is a tight fit and slips right on and off without fastening . To it I attach auxiliary fences for angle cuts . Try it you'll like it.              dusty