What is the best way to apply a water-based acrylic polyurethane over broad, flat surfaces? I have tried using an ultra-low nap roller and laying it off with a paint pad, with a stain pad and with cloth. I have also tried raging it on. In both cases, I end up either with bubbles or significant streaks. Once sanded down, the bubbles leave little craters. If I sand the streaks or bubbles all the way down, then I’m back where I started.
What is the best way for me to apply this product without having streaks or bubbles left after it dries?
Replies
I use my Lemmer HVLP spray gun, with the compressor set to 60psi. Results with Minwax's polycrylic have been quite good.
Marty
One thing I've found when I use polyurethane is to keep the heat down in the shop. If I leave the heat turned up the poly dries outtoo quickly and I have the same problem. So the last thing I do when I leave the shop is apply te=he poly and then turn the heat down. I usually leave mine at 50-55 when I have a finish drying.
Couple of things. Some waterborne poly won't cure at 50. I can, perhaps, understand wanting to slow the curing during application, expecially since many of the waterborne finishes are really designed from spray application. The best way to deal with this is to treat it like shellac, brushing quickly with a low reservoir watercolor wash brush. Taklon gold bristles are very good for this.
But once the finish has been applied I can't imagine there being a problem with the finish curing in a warmer space, within reason. A temperature of 70 shouldn't ever be too warm--thats usually the baseline temperature for the curing times given by the manufacturer. Faster cure means less dust.
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