Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 06, 2011 01:28pm | #1

   Hi Tim,

   The sides on the original split because the cross grain attachment-glued and nailed- of the cleats under the bottom and the shelf support, (and I'm guessing the drawer supports) prevented the sides from shrinking.  The best way to prevent this is to eliminate the cleats altogether from the bottom, and attach the bottom by cutting a dado across the ends about 1/4" deep for the bottom to fit into.  This joint may be reinforced with short (3"long by 3/4x3/4 or so) glueblocks underneath, spaced every 4" or so.

   The shelf supports ought to be attached in a way that allows for the sides to swell and shrink.  Screwing the supports in place will work if you put the screw at the back of the support in a slot rather than a hole.  Or you could drill 4 blind holes and support the shelf on stubby dowels or store bought shelf supports

   The best way for attaching the drawer bearers is to mortise the rear edge of the drawer rail, cut a tenon on the front end of the bearer and insert it dry (no glue!) partway into the mortise, leaving it about 1/4" from being completely "home". A screw near the back end of the support intot he case end will fix it in place, and movement of the sides will be taken up by the tenon coming and going in its mortise.

   The top rails, front and rear, can be dovetailed (best) into the tops of the case ends, or simply housed and screwed from the top. The drawer rail ought to be dovetailed (sliding dovetail) or mortised into the case ends; it will make a stronger job than simply housing it. If you let the top front rail and the drawer rail project forward, you can simply cut them back at the ends to accept the stiles, which can abut the projecting ends of the rails, and be simply glued to the front edges of the case ends.  The front skirt/bottom rail ought to have tenons on its ends, mortised into the stiles, and glued to the front edge of the bottom.  This can be reinforced with glue blocks behind the apron, and down the inside corner of the feet, as well.

   The top is generally attached with screws thru the top rails, and in a pocket or two cut into the case ends near the top edge.

   Ray

1. 
   timhorchler | Jul 07, 2011 08:57am | #2

   follow up question

   Ray - thanks.  I think I am getting it.  But still some questions, so let me try to simplify where I have the questions.

   Let's say I am making this stand so that there are just left and right sides the bracing that goes left to right, top and bottom, front and back.  Six pieces of wood.  I understand the dovetail for the top braces.  They move with the sides as they expand and contract.  It is the bottom that confuses.  If a dado is cut into the sides for the bottom braces what is the method for securing the 2 parts?  Just glue?  Screw and glue?  Something else.  I could cut a sliding dovetail in the sides so the brace is locked to the side.  I want to have a traditional joint here, not some home brew of mine that will fail.

   Next;  the inside bottom wood and the top piece will be wide so will move.  I know I can not just glue/screw into place.  What is the proper method to attach?  I am guessing that I secure at the front in some manner but allow the back or other locations to float with perhaps a screw in a slot for movement.  Any help here?

   Last, the front to back measurement is about 17".  Are just 2 braces left to right enough, or should a 3rd be added in the middle?  The original has 3 at the top but just 2 at the bottom.

   Tim

1. 
   joinerswork | Jul 07, 2011 10:27pm | #3

   Tim,

   The RaiLs, which run from Right to Left, are only needed at the top, and below the drawer.  The front edge of the bottom can serve as a lower rail in some instances; in this case, the apron/foot board, probably tenoned or tongue and grooved into the STiles, which STand vertically, does that job. If you want to put rails below the bottom, you certainly can, but they are not needed, and really serve no purpose.

   Traditionally, rails are dovetailed into the case ends with a sliding (sometimes called a French) dovetail, and driven into place from the front.  Alternatively, they might have a pair of stubby parallel tenons on their ends, which fit into blind mortises in the ends.

   The case ends, bottom, partition (if grain runs bottom to top), shelf, and top all will swell and shrink in the same direction, so there will be no movement issues there, as long as you do not attach any bracing or strips (like the drawer supports)- with grain running front to back- solidly across their width.

   It would be best practice to have a third rail across the top in the center of its width, to prevent any tendency of the ends to cup.  However, poplar is pretty tame wood, if your stock is kiln dried and straight-grained, I don't think a central rail is absolutely necessary.  Practically speaking, if you screw the top to the ends, a screw in a pocket in the same location, run up into the top will do almost as good a job.

   Ray 

2. 
   timhorchler | Aug 09, 2011 01:46pm | #4

   Project Finished

   Thanks to Ray who helped on several of the FW discussion list with questions I had.  Here is a picture of the original piece and my copy of it. Everything was done in poplar;  had some boards that were mostly greeen, and some very white.  Tried to use the colors correctly.  Finished with Minwax wipe on oil.  Still waiting for a door latch that will work on this piece. On to the next project.

   Tim

   
1. 
   joinerswork | Aug 10, 2011 11:03pm | #5

   Tim,

   that looks like a right fair copy you made.  Well done.

   I believe that Horton Brasses has a victorian latch similar to the one on the old piece, if you are looking for one like it.

   http://www.horton-brasses.com/store/latchescatches/cabinetlatches

   Ray