Replies

1. 
   chuckvandyck | May 23, 2022 09:53pm | #1

   I might screw some battens direct to the base to possibly help keep the top from cupping, no movement issues there. Then attach the top to the battens using wooden buttons and screws.

   You should tell them to commission you to build a proper base while you’re at it…

2. 
   elmaduro | May 23, 2022 11:14pm | #2

   I'd make a rectangular subframe with at least one or two cross braces. Attach the subframe to the pipes and then attach the tabletop to the subframe using elgongated holes. Also consider a felt, leather, or similar barrier between the metal pipe flange and the subframe wood.

3. 
   mark_0h | May 23, 2022 11:20pm | #3

   why spend the money on some beautiful Ash and then build a base built out of flanges and black pipe? So it goes…customer is always right etc.

   I would guess you are looking at close to 1” of total movement across 36” of Ash, assuming your initial moisture content is 6% and your max is 15%. That would be about 3/8” to 1/2” of movement at each screw hole in the base depending on how much overhang the top will have. So I would elongate each hole in the flange to about 1/2” by drilling another hole beside the pre drilled one (in the direction that will be cross grain) and then joining the two with a file. File off any rough edges. Screw the top to the base using pan head screws with a washer between the screw head and the flange. This will let the screws all slide in the slot as the wood expands and contracts.

   Of course, wood movement will probably be much less in practice assuming they live in a heated/air conditioned home but I always like to plan for the worst case scenario.

1. 
   jamenard | May 24, 2022 08:25am | #5

   This is along the lines of what I was thinking as well as the simplest solution.

   The movement data and washer tip is just what I needed.

   Thanks!

1. 
   elmaduro | May 24, 2022 11:22am | #6

   Most table legs have two points of structural support, or a large apron, to keep them from splaying. Since the screw and washer attachment through the flange won't be frictionless, you still run the risk of the legs splaying in and out with seasonal movement. The top of the legs need one more point of structural support.

4. 
   _mj_ | May 24, 2022 06:58am | #4

   Sliding dovetail battens spaced to land on the flanges. If you want to get fancy you could add the outside edge boards after the battens are in to keep the edge solid. A single pin in each batten to keep it centered is all you'll need.