A little help please
How would you attach this solid wood top?
The case sides and back are frame and panel.
I can’t use any of the normal ways tabs, clips or pocket holes because the top drawer sides would hit them. I though I would glue back half of top to sides of case but what about the from half I don’t want to leave it loose.
Replies
From your description there is no top rail joining the two sides since the drawer sides run along the underside of the top. You expect then that the top will hold the side panels. That can be done with furniture cam fittings found in knock down furniture, some models are sturdier than others, I would recommend the all metal construction with threaded inserts in the top.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s2fTC_v7E7k
This would be wood only option.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/1997/04/01/housed-sliding-dovetails
Since this looks like sketchup, please remove the top so we can see the underlying structure and post the image. With and without the drawer would help the most.
I've added new pic with top and upper drawer removed
I think the classic design for a chest of drawers incorporates a rail above the top drawers that connects to the sides and protects the carcass against racking. This space above the drawer also allows for the usual ways of attaching the top.
In your design, I don't see a good way to attach the top that will provide adequate rigidity against the usual racking, tipping, and general movement a chest of drawers is usually subject to. Generally speaking, the carcass of a chest of drawers is 100% structurally sound without the drawers or top attached.
I would add a top "divider"or rail, above the top drawer, along with "runners" on the sides. Those will keep the drawer from tipping downward when opened. Right now the top is doing that function.
Also, as presently drawn, the top could rub against the underside of the top when opening. A rail above the drawer will give clearance, and also solve the issue of how to attach the top.
You could use steel cleats by lowering the drawer sides and back , all you need is 5/8 clearance.
It looks like you have side kickers in there, so there is enough space for an upper block that you could screw through to fasten the top. BUT...I do agree with the gang, a rail half-blind dovetailed into the front stiles is the best for the chest's survival.
To hold onto your design, set the rail back by the thickness of your drawer front and reduce the height of the top drawer's sides to accomodate the rail. The only loss is an inch or so of depth in the top drawer. I'd add one between the rear stiles also to make fastening the top bombproof.
If you want to attach the top without any protusions, you can use the figure eight clips. Screw the clips to the top of the side rails/ends of the stiles. Just rout out a shallow mortise in the bottom of the top so each clip fits in the mortise (and has room for seasonal movement.) Then apply screws from below into the top.
By the way, if you don't want to put in a cross rail to hold the two sides in position relative to each other and prevent racking, you can use a tenon on the ends of the side stiles up into the top, unglued at the front with extra room at the front and back of the mortise for seasonal movement. Then the figure eight clips keep the joint secure. You can also use a spline or even a biscuit instead of a tenon, tho you want as much penetration as you can get without weakening the top in that spot.
Figure 8 clips would the best bet for minimal intrusion but it looks like there is enough space to also consider z clips.
Thanks for all the help. I'm either going to go with figure 8 or z clips
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