Replies

1. 
   TomMGTC | Jan 30, 2004 03:48pm | #1

   I recently built a crved vanity using 1/8 bevding ply. I lyed up 5 layers ovr a form in a vacuum press. Worked very well but you need a stout form.

   Tom

   Douglasville, GA

2. 
   jako17 | Jan 30, 2004 03:53pm | #2

   Try double 3/4 ply top and bottom plates and ply ribs.cover with 2 layers of 5/32 bending ply laminated together,glued and stapled onto the ribs.Then vacuum verneer the finish.If you can convince the client to do away with the opening it will save them money and create a stronger form.

3. 
   BDuck11 | Jan 30, 2004 04:41pm | #3

   If you're making a living at woodworking, you might want to consider just buying a curved form--it's cheaper. I bought some from these people years ago, and the quality was reliable: http://www.robertsplywood.com/curvedwood.htm

1. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jan 30, 2004 07:17pm | #7

   Anderson International (www.aitwood.com) sells curved panels for cabinetmakers who are building kitchens with curves.

4. 
   DJK | Jan 30, 2004 05:25pm | #4

   Sounds like a neat job, curves in the kitchen are great for eye appeal. I agree with Bill, why reinvent the wheel. Purchase the plywood base then cover it. My concern is with the amount of top overhang. Make sure it's fastened to the base very well. Figure a 200+ lb. person leaning on the end of the top, lots of leverage.

5. 
   UncleDunc | Jan 30, 2004 05:27pm | #5

   The bending ply sounds like the most straightforward approach. I wouldn't bother with studs, just a disk of two or three layers of 3/4" ply at the top and bottom of the column and the top and bottom of the cutout. Figure out some way to stiffen the edges of the cutout, and I think a 3/4" shell will be plenty strong. At that thickness, I think the table is more likely to fail by tipping the top off or tipping the column over at the floor than by buckling. Fortunately, it's easy to build in plenty of reinforcement and anchorage for fasteners right where you need them, at the top and bottom.

   Coopering would be another possibility. If you're going with a clear finish, coopering would allow you to show solid wood edges around the cutout, which is always a nice look. There was a thread here in the last month or so about smoothing columns without a lathe.

6. 
   JBD | Jan 30, 2004 06:23pm | #6

   Gotcha beat BG - I did an island that had a 6ft x 11 ft 1-1/4" Blue Pearl Granite top (seamless).  I made a point to NOT be there when they delivered and installed it. 

   I've done tons of curves / round bases, and agree to get veneer ply rounds that match your wood, but if you did it yourself, do what Uncle Dunc and others say 'bout bending ply.  Use two layers of the 3/8" bending lauan, topped with pre-veneered thin bending skin - If Maple, then get maple bending ply.  Try not to apply veneer to the curved surface - do it beforehand - too much gap potential. 

   Use polyurethane glue for gluing the laminations and to the form, it has good open time, and allows the laminations to 'hydroplane' well till your band clamps are set - not to mention superior adhesion and gap filling ability. 

    

   "The furniture designer is an architect." - Maurice DuFrenes (French Art Deco furniture designer, contemporary of Ruhlmann)

   http://www.pbase.com/dr_dichro

7. 
   Norse | Feb 04, 2004 03:21pm | #8

   Thanks for all the great advice. I really want a smooth shell to apply the veneer so I'm buying one from RobertsPly. Trouble is that they only make a 5/32" thick shell so I plan to then glue in 3/4" ply in a coppered fashion to help support the weight. The overturn still bothers me so I plan to install blocking between the joists under the floor and run 4 all-threads from the sub-top through the floor. The inset box may have to be a little smaller but not too much.

   The other question I'm looking for help with is the difference between paper backed and phenolic backed veneers. I've posted a separate question but this thread is fine too.

   Thanks again,

   Norse