Replies

1. 
   ring | Dec 23, 2007 07:31pm | #1

   It would depend on how long you plan to stay and work. But for a short visit, without getting too ambitious, I'd put the following in a satchel to take with me on the plane:

   A set of 18V cordless tools that all use the same batteries, including drill/driver, jigsaw, small circular saw. You only need to take 1 charger with you. But get a 220V-110V converter as soon as you can (for the charger)

   A decent jack plane

   3/8" dowels and drill bits

   your favorite shelf pins and bits to match

   If you're fixated on working in inches, take your own tape measure.

   2 Pony pipe clamp fixtures. You can get the 3/4" pipe anywhere.

   Makes a heavy satchel, but it's doable.

   Regarding the cypress, it's not very pleasant to use, like the worst grade of pine you can imagine. But don't despair...I wouldn't be surprised if you can find nice wide boards of sapele or something else that is local.

   BTW, I expect to be going to Angola about the same time. The challenge is much the same but on a different scale - I've shipped five 40' containers ahead with tools and materials...

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?id=1&lang=e

1. 
   Dobrototo | Dec 24, 2007 02:34am | #2

   Ring:

   Thanks for the advice!  I have been scouring department store and online offers between and among Dewalt, Makita, and Bosch for just such "combo" kits (ps: Overheard one tool manager here in the Boston area lamenting that DeWalt no longer sells an 18V stand-alone jig saw - combo-kits only).  

   Just found out yesterday (12/22) that all buildings on site in Rwanda are brick/stone, and all partitions and counters are concrete.  I think I'll bring a couple hundred plastic wall anchors from the Home Depot as well, for wall cleats, etc.

   Thanks again, David!

   Tony

2. 
   bigfootnampa | Dec 24, 2007 04:51am | #3

   Kreg jigs are great but they do require the proper screws (they don.t have to be Kreg screws but I wouldn't count on finding them in Africa) take plenty with you. 

   I am a fan of the Miller dowels for assembling cases and drawer boxes.  You'd have to take your dowel stocks with you but they offer a low tech minimal tooling system that is fast and strong.  I just built a single step box for my wife for Christmas using the Miller dowels and it was a pure pleasure to assemble and much stouter than screws or standard dowels.  You need a flush cut saw or chisel for the dowel ends but I prefer to use my carving axe with a rubber hammer as a chisel substitute.   Glue is also essential but may be locally available.

1. 
   Dobrototo | Dec 24, 2007 05:33am | #4

   Thank You, Bigfootnampa!  I haven't used either the Miller dowels or the Kreg system...guess that is job #1 while I'm still here.  I like the "low-tech" sound of Miller dowels, but the abililty to use the Kreg system without clamping is also attractive.

   Thanks again. // Dobrototo

1. 
   bigfootnampa | Dec 24, 2007 07:50am | #5

   The only clamping required with the miller dowels is temporary for drilling... the hammer tapping the dowels into place is adequate clamping otherwise and they grab instantly.  I use the smaller size for drawer boxes (instead of dovetailing).  I have had excellent results with the Kreg too... it's hard to beat for face frames.  You DO need the Kreg vise grip clamp for assembly clamping with the Kreg system.

   Practice a bit because there are some tricks you'll want to know with both systems.  They are both way fast though and very compact and simple compared to alternatives that would do the job as well.  I have disassembled both type joints and they have few peers, amazingly strong.  I'd favor the Miller dowels for soft woods as the Kreg system doesn't perform quite as well with them.  Take both if you can as they each have uses where they are superior.  If I had to choose I'd take the Miller dowels as they are faster and stronger and slightly more versatile.

1. 
   Dobrototo | Dec 24, 2007 04:55pm | #6

   Dear BFN:

   Again, thank you so much!  I'm hoping Santa Claus drops a gift certificate in to my stocking, but either way, I will order the "standard" Kreg system and a basic Miller dowel set up from Rockler asap, and practice, practice,practice.

   A Merry Christmas and a Very Happy (and Peaceful) New Year to you and your family.

   Tony / Dobrototo

2. 
   BruceS | Dec 24, 2007 05:02pm | #7

   Not saying you are ;-)  But Miller dowels are Idiot proof,  all you need are clamps, the miller bit and a cordless drill.

   But what about College dorm style ?  Cinder blocks/bricks and planks.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

1. 
   Dobrototo | Dec 24, 2007 05:10pm | #8

   Dear BruceS:

   It may well come to "college-dorm style"...especially if all the tools etc that I plan to bring end up disappearing somewhere between Boston and Kigali.  An excellent thought!

   Thank You, a very Merry Christmas and a Happy (and Peaceful) New Year to you and your family.

   Dobrototo 

1. 
   BruceS | Dec 25, 2007 01:20am | #9

   Sometimes simple and easy work well, especially when your going to be flying blind.

   And to you all the best on your venture and I return your seasons greatings.Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

   Bruce S. 

    

3. 
   skidkid | Dec 26, 2007 10:57pm | #10

   The reason the houses are block and stone with concrete counters is TERMITES.

   They will eat the shelves and the books too.

   Design accordingly; no wood in contact with the floor unless treated at least one foot above the slab; then splice in the cypress.

   Leave the back of the shelving open so you can see termite tracks on the walls.

   Inspect regularly; termites will go through concrete and masonry joints.

   I use 10 inch bar joists vertically for supports and attach the shelves to these; also leave the bottom shelf space clear; no books.

   Hank.

1. 
   Dobrototo | Dec 27, 2007 08:09am | #11

   Hank:

   Thanks for your detailed posting.!  You obviously have a heckuva lot more experience than me in all of this. I appreciate your expertise. A couple of follow up questions, please, if you have the time?

   TERMITES...They will eat the shelves and the books too...Design accordingly; no wood in contact with the floor unless treated at least one foot above the slab;    What do people use for termite treatment? Do they have creosote or some such available in that part of Africa?

   then splice in the cypress.  What do you mean by "splice in" the cypress?

   Leave the back of the shelving open so you can see termite tracks on the walls... Inspect regularly; termites will go through concrete and masonry joints.    Will do!

   I use 10 inch bar joists vertically for supports and attach the shelves to these;  Do you mean "rebar", as in concrete slab construction?

   also leave the bottom shelf space clear; no books  Roger, that!  Thanks for taking the time to answer, and thanks in advance if you have the time to do so again

   Tony / Dobrototo

1. 
   skidkid | Dec 27, 2007 05:42pm | #12

   Tony,

   The locals will know all about termites; basically they eat wood and paper (read books).  

   Bar joists are steel floor or roof joists with open web design probably not available where you are; I stand them on end for vertical supports.

   You can use angle iron full height for verticals or just part way from the floor then change to wood; I think you said cypress.   Splicing in is overlapping the 2 different woods; like a half lap joint.

   Termite treatment uses harsh chemicals; costly and you have to keep up the treatment forever.   After a few years you forget and the termites take over; eternal vigilance is required after completion.

   The one tool you WILL need is a hammer drill; and lots and lots of carbide bits sized for your wall anchors; I anchor shelving units at the top with clip angles to prevent tipping; children will climb up shelves.

   Hank.

    

1. 
   Dobrototo | Dec 27, 2007 06:20pm | #13

   Hank:

   Thanks again...good info here...especially about bar joists (Do you have a suggested source of supply for these? ) ...and the hammer-drill... I almost bought a "regular" Ryobi drill-driver set last night, but thought I should find out more whether its plastic internal gears would hold up while drilling concrete, etc. ...Probably not, eh?  Sounds like Bosch or DeWalt would be the ticket...

   Thanks, Hank.

   // Tony

   ps: What country are you in?

1. 
   skidkid | Dec 28, 2007 12:16am | #14

   Tony,

   Bar joists are probably difficult to acquire in Rwanda.  Use local materials.

   Hammer drill................Bosch bulldog 7/8 or bigger and lots of bits.

   I'm in Bonaire, near Venezuela.

   Hank.

2. 
   Dobrototo | Dec 28, 2007 02:46am | #15

   Hank:

   Got some images of bar joists from Google...Now I can visualize what you mean.  Roger, that, on the Hammer-drill, Bosch, etc...pretty inconvenient to look for replacement parts "on site", fro Ryobi, et al.

   Again, thanks!

   // Tony

4. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 28, 2007 10:32am | #16

   The K3 Kreg system works great as long as you have ample support for your stock.  I've screwed my base unit to a 5' 2x4 and added a layer of 1" thick scrap to provide a level support.  This would probably be portable enough for you.  In regards to screws, you need to use pan head screws.  Self tapping screws are preferred as they prevent splitting of the mating piece.  If you go this way, be aware of how the joint can creep out of alignment when screwed together.

   As for a simple way of constructing cabinets, why not just glue and screw the cabinets together.  Counterbore the screws and plug the holes.  Adding a back would provide additional strength as well as resistance to racking.

   Chris @ flairwoodworks

    - Success is not the key to happines.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   Dobrototo | Dec 28, 2007 05:47pm | #17

   Chris:

   Thanks for your reply.  I have just started experimenting with the Kreg system here at home...Boy, are you ever right about joint creep!  Weight is the main limitation to what I can bring, so I am trying to keep it simple, but also be able to do something that will last.  Clamps will be necessary, I think, even with the Kreg system.  Rockler sells just the clamp hardware; I was told that 3/4" iron pipe is available anywhere.  I also tried the Miller dowel (1X) system: VERY simple: their drill bit, their proprietary dowels, glue, and a hammer and you are in business (plus clamps, of course).  Essentially they are a one-step (but expensive) alternative to your excellent suggestion of countersunk screws and plugs. However, they do split 3/4 pine driven into its edge...not good for case construction but super forinteriorshelves.  I'll probably end up following your advice on the screws and glue, though, when all is said and done.

   Thanks again!

   Tony / Dobrototo