I know there are definite “WAYS” to do things & this might seem like a real beginner question, but how do you pros clean your brushes? I just swirl mine in the appropriate solvent, then pour some on the brush in my hand squeeze it out & hope for the best! I know there has got to be “a way”.
Thanks, Jerry
“I tried to think of that but I couldn’t”
Replies
Jerry,
The natural bristle brushes that I want to keep in good shape get cleaned in solvent as you say. Then I wash them in lukewarm soap and water, and store them wrapped nicely in paper.
DR
You can buy "combs" for the brushes that help to separate the bristles -- especially up towards the top. If I'm cleaning out latex paint at the sink, sometimes I'll just grab a fork.
When I'm cleaning brushes used to apply varnish, I use three containers containing mineral spirits. I agitate the brushes in each container successively - the mineral spirits in the first container accumulates the lion's share of the varnish, the second a bit less, and the third container should remain relatively clean and uncontaminated.
If you've worked in bars or restaurants you'll recognize this approach as being similar to the old "three sink" method for sanitizing dishes and glassware.
After cleaning the brush in mineral spirits, I head to the sink and wash them in with a little dishwashing liquid, followed by a thorough rinsing.
Wrapping the brushes in paper so the bristles will hold their shape is the final step.
By the way, the first step in brush washing occurs before applying a finish: dunking the bristles in thinner helps keep varnish from filling the capsule and hardening there.
Hope I haven't forgotten any steps,
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
My technique is the same as jazzdog's. Sometimes I substitute lacquer thinner for the soap and water.When can #1 gets too much contaminated, decant off the clear solvent. Let the gunk dry and throw it away. Promote up cans #2 and #3 and start a fresh #3 can.If the brush gets really gunky, I soak them for a couple of hours in NMP stripper. You can also buy "brush cleaner" which appears to be about every stripper & solvent in a soup. Nasty stuff, but it does work.
Edited 5/28/2006 1:01 pm ET by byhammerandhand
Dogg, that was very helpful. Thanks to all y'all for the help.Jerry
"I tried to think of that but I couldn't"
First, the best way to make a brush easier to clean is to dip the bristles into mineral spirits before you start to use the finish. This will prevent finish from getting up into the furrel.
Use a big 3# coffee can. I pour in some mineral spirits and work the brush in it until is is as clean as you can get it. Then twirl the brush handle between your hands to remove the cleaner. Then pour the cleaner into a smaller 1# coffee can. Now pour some more mineral spirits into the large can, work the brush, twirl it and pour the cleaner into a second small 1# coffee can. Cover both coffee cans. The solids will settle out and the next time just pour off the liquid from the first can you used into the large can for the first rinse, then pour off the liquid from the second can for the second rinse and so on. When the first rinse can gets too full of solids, pour off the remaining liquid into can #2 and add some kitty litter and discard the coffee can with the solids. Can #2 now becomes can #1 and you start a new can #2 with fresh mineral spirits. This way you never have to discard mineral spirits.
I final clean my brushes with water rinsable brush cleaner--which I save also--followed by liquid dishwashing detergent. Use warm water, not hot. Shake them as dry as possible and brush them back and forth on paper towels, then wrap in brown paper, fold it over to shape the chisel end of the bristles and hold with a rubber band.
You should never have to throw out mineral spirits.
Shellac brushes do not need to be cleaned. Just let them dry. When you go to use them again, put them into your shellac and they will soften up in about five minutes.
Cleaning brushes used for waterborne paints is just a matter of used warm water and rinsing them out. Wipe them dry on a paper towel and cover them with brown paper as above.
Thanks Howie. That was very concise. I still am not clear on the difference between paint thinner & mineral spirits. Oh, I think a light might have just gone on, paint thinner is for paint? Mineral spirits for finishes?Jerry
"I tried to think of that but I couldn't"
"I still am not clear on the difference between paint thinner & mineral spirits."
Hi Jerry,
As far as most woodworking uses go, it's safe to consider them synonymous; i.e. although there are differences between regular paint thinner, low-odor paint thinner, naphtha, et al, the differences aren't sufficient to worry about in most cases.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Brush cleaning 101 (IMOO, of course)
In my brush inventory are brushes used by my Great Uncle Dick. My father inherited them when Uncle Dick died. I, in turn inherited them from my father. Three generations... good brushes, with proper care, will out last you ;-)
When taking a break from a painting/varnishing job I wrap the brush in Saranwrap (or similar) and just stick them in the freezer. I really don't know how long is too long, but 24 hours might be OK; over night certainly is.
I use water-rinsing brush cleaner, Kwikease (spelling?) typically. For paint I have two containers, 'dirty' and 'clean' for first and second soak. Eventually the 'clean' becomes the 'dirty' and new stuff becomes the new clean. Natch varnish brushes use different batches of the same stuff. Usually I leave a brush in each overnight.
I wash them in HOT water with about whatever soap is handy. IVORY powder or the like seems fine. Typically three times in soapy water (changing the water each time) and then a couple or three rinses. I shake out the bulk of the water and then wrap them in newspaper.
As for water-based finishes, nothing special.
There are folks who wrap their varnish brushes in newspaper and just leave them standing in paint thinner or kero. Works for them. ;-) YRMV
I use the appropriate solvent (usually water or mineral turpentine) to debulk the majority of the paint. Usually I clean the brush in a paint pot and use a circular motion and downward pressure to splay the bristles out and work the solvent into the base of the bristles.I then use a device called a rotaspin which holds the brush and rapidly rotates the brush to spin the majority of the paint and solvent out. If there is a buildup of paint I will use a wirebrush (with straight bristles) to clean this- you brush from the handle end to the tips of the bristles, lift the wirebrush and start again from the handle end i.e. only in one direction. I will repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times with the solvent and then at least twice with a quality detergent. Always working the solvent or detergent into the base of the bristles. The advantage of the rotaspin is that by removing the bulk of the paint and solvent/detergent between 'cleansings' you reduce the amount of solvent/detegent used in the next 'cleansing'. Once clean I wrap the brush in a piece of clean cotton material to keep the brush's shape.
Edited 5/31/2006 5:39 pm ET by geoff7325
Of course, everyone has to buy the brush spinner! Sold in most paint shops and even in Home Dumpot I think! A couple of dunks in a few pails of thinner and then of course recycle the thinner by letting the gook settle for a few days, carefully pour liquid into new bucket then scrape out or add litter and chuck that pail.A paint brush spinner is a MUST! Just spin in a 5 gal bucket or garbage can.
Thanks to everyone for the input. I think I'll keep an eye on ebay for an antique brush spinner! ;-)I'm on the right track.Jerry
"I tried to think of that but I couldn't"
After failing to successfully clean several (expensive in my opinion), I have to ask, which is more cost effective? buying lots of mineral spirits to clean good brushes or just buying good brushes and throwing them away?
It depends on what you mean by an expensive brush I suppose. I think expensive brushes are the ones for oil varnish that can retail (for the very best quality anyway) at something close to £75- £90 each for a 2-1/2" to 3" wide one-- that's about US$140- $170.
At that price they're definitely worth looking after. At £10 for a pack of six assorted widths, that's just chicken-#### to toss out once you're done, ha, ha. Slainte.Richard Jones Furniture
Five gallons of paint thinner won't buy one good brush for oil based varnish.
Incidentally the manufacturer of some of the finest marine finishes (Epifanes) recommends storing brushes in diesel fuel between uses. Rinse out with mineral spirits before the next project. (They even sell a container to hold brushes suspended in the fuel.)
Mineral spirits are really not very effective for cleaning brushes that have varnishes in them (in most cases). Use the mineral spirits for a first rinse but then go to hotter thinners. A list of typically available thinners starting with mineral spirits and moving up in strength: mineral spirits > naptha > lacquer thinners > acetone. Olive oil trumps them all for the removal of both water and oil based finishes of all sorts (it should be followed by a hot thinner rinse and warm water/dish detergent washing and rinsing). Turpentines are even slower drying than mineral spirits but (like olive oil) they are nonetheless more effective cleaners. Nicest thing is that olive oil is kind to your hands and non-toxic... also leaves a slight residue in the brush which acts as a conditioner making it function better and clean easier for the next several uses.
I guess I'm trying to visualize how you all do this. Once I clean a brush, it's my thought at least that the stuff I just used to clean the brush is still useable but I don't have anyway to store it so that it doesn't evaporate. so, it's basically use it once and then it's gone.
Are you all using some sort of sealable containers to retain what you've used?
Mason jars - Impervious to solvents, wide mouth, various sizes, rubber seal, available everywhere, relatively inexpensive.Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral. Frank Lloyd Wright
One of the big differences between a good brush and a cheap brush is the density of the bristles. If you pull the bristles apart and look into the ferrule, a good brush will be solid bristles. A cheap brush will only have bristles around the perimeter. They may look similar on the rack but a look inside tells the story. The denser bristles hold and apply more product. This makes them more difficult to clean. You should not use a new brush dry, right out of the wrapper. Dip in water for latex, mineral spirits for oils and shake out the excess. This will help prevent product accumulation deep into the ferrule. Many painters hang their brushes suspended in the appropriate thinner. You don't want the bristles hitting anything or laying on the bottom of a jar. Paint suppliers carry a tool called a brush spinner. It simply grips the brush handle and spins the brush, removing material by centrifugal force. Most of us just put the brush in a 5gal. pail and spin it, so the excess doesn't fly everywhere. When changing colors or cleaning the brush for storage, brush cleaner is often used. If you are going to paint, you need to have the the tools and products to do the whole job. This may mean plenty of clean thinner, containers, brush cleaner and a spinner. Plenty of soap and water for latex. A clean brush should be stored in it's wrapper or use heavy brown bag paper. A decent brush like a Purdy should last a many years but you have to spend the necessary time in cleaning it right after you are done, not a few days later, like me. Brush cleaner can bring back an abused brush, but it's better to avoid dried on material in the first place.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Since the brushes are almost 'history, why not try this trick my father taught me in the 30's. Take an empty coffee can and punch two small holes at the top edge center and directly to the rear top center.
You are going to suspend the brush so the bristles don't touch bottom.
Drill a small hole in it's handle and using tie wire, suspend the brush. Before immersing the brush, add about ½ cup of soap power and fill with water up to and just over the ferrule.
Place the can on low gas heat for 10-15 minutes and watch. If it wants to boil over, lower heat to prevent messing the stove top.
Prince under warm water and stroke the bristles into shape. When dry, wrap the brush in craft paper and store 'till next use. Did that to scores of hard as a rock brushes Steinmetz.
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