Replies

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Nov 27, 2001 09:21pm | #1

   *
   Hmmmm, interesting "problem", Steve.

   What is the brand name and color of the filler? Are you using Min Wax Wood Finish, the yellow can? What kind of wood are you using? Without seeing the actual piece, it sounds to me like the pores weren't completely filled in the first place.

   Dano

1. 
   sbaia_ | Nov 28, 2001 02:45am | #2

   *Dano,This is a follow up discussion from a previous one I started "Evening out sapwood during staining".I am using Minwax Red Mahogany stain in the yellow can along with Belhen's Pore-o-pac grain filler. I filled the grain on the top twice, allowing 4 days for the first application to dry then another 3 days for the second. I've then stained the piece and saw the white filler show up. I've restained the piece several days later, it covered some of the filler but not all. It's not horrible, but it is noticeable from a foot or two away.I'm leery of adding to many layers of stain for fear of having adhesion problems when I apply the finish. Any ideas how to proceed? Steve

1. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Nov 28, 2001 04:07am | #3

   *Well Steve,I went back and reviewed the thread. Did you use the natural filler or the Mahogany as recommended?Dano

1. 
   Rob_Millard | Nov 28, 2001 03:36pm | #4

   *I’ve never had this problem before (I thought I had every finishing problem known to mankind), but if I did, I try an oil soluble aniline dye. Minwax contains some dye, so that's why it helped, but did not completely fix the problem. This dye should color the filler. To avoid this problem in the future, dye/stain your piece, then seal the color with a wash coat of shellac, then add grain filler, that is tinted to the color you want the pores. Oil dyes are available from Olde Mill Cabinet Shoppe (www. Oldemill.com) and Woodworkers Supply, (see any issue of FWW for their address).

1. 
   sbaia_ | Nov 28, 2001 09:18pm | #5

   *Dan,No I used a natural filler that I applied then stained once dried.Rob,I'll look into the oil base dyes and give them a try.One question, I would think an oil base stain would be easier to apply then a alcohol base due to the slower dry times allowing more even penetration. Also they don't raise the grain as a water base dye wood. Are my assumptions correct? If so, I would think that one of the down sides is the longer drying time due to the oil (not really such a bad thing).As always thanks for the advice guys,Steve

2. 
   Danford_C._Jennings | Nov 29, 2001 12:41am | #6

   *Steve,I believe that's the problem, you used the natural instead of the Mahogany filler. Review your other discussion. As to the fix; I would sand or re-plane the surfaces and use Mahogany filler.I prefer oil based stains and have been using them all my woodworking life. Tried water base once, never again. FWIW.Dano

3. 
   Rob_Millard | Nov 29, 2001 03:16am | #7

   *Oil dyes are not as light fast as water dyes so that is their main drawback. I started out using oil stains, but I think that dyes are superior in all respects to stains. They are more forgiving, available in a huge array of colors, and cheaper to boot. The depth of grain they impart is very appealing. Since I do reproductions, I will use a glazing, to add a little “age”, but I haven’t “stained" a piece in years. Even though, it’s not meant to be used that way, I rub on Minwax Red Mahogany stain, as a glaze on top of shellac, and then coat over it again with shellac (99.9% of my work is with mahogany).

4. 
   sbaia_ | Dec 02, 2001 03:17am | #8

   *Problem resolved. I tinted a 1 lb cut of shellac with a mahogany dye and applied it as a wash coat.Steve