Replies

1. 
   badoyn | Aug 21, 2002 03:24am | #1

   Glad to see no one was hurt and there was minimal damage (at least what I can see from the photo).

   I would call some local sawmills. You might find a small one or an individual that can handle it. Here in St. Louis there is a guy that will charge $80 for pickup, cut it the way you want, dry it and charge $1.25 per board foot. When you consider what White Oak costs, especially quartersawn ($4.00 and up) it's a good deal.

   Michael

2. 
   Splintie | Aug 21, 2002 08:18am | #2

   Check out http://www.woodmizer.com/

   They make portable sawmills that come to your tree instead of vice-versa. Somehow, i have the notion from something i heard or read that they keep a database of their customers/owners, so perhaps they could refer you to someone close enough and willing to come to your tree.

   Might be a good trade, eh? Wood for milling? Looks like you'll have some to spare! I made a desk out of a holly oak that fell down in the yard in CA, still have some of the wood 25 years later. We slabbed it with an Alaskan chain saw mill on a 48" Stihl--"tedious" does not begin to capture the essence of those several hours.

1. 
   observer | Aug 21, 2002 08:29am | #3

   There are an enormous number of those portable mills out there, but prices aren't always cheap. Standard rate in my area runs between $300 and 350 per thousand for optimal production of 1x and 2x stock, a little less if you are cutting timbers log run. Don't let Splintie scare you off the Alaska mill; it's hard work but rewarding as long as you know how to sharpen a power saw. Not such a good idea if you have to buy a saw and mill to do it though.

   Edit: Just a couple of other things about portable mills. There is usually a diameter limitation around 27". Logs will need to be cut and cleaned, sometimes barked, expect a lot of cleanup of waste and maybe a blade surcharge because it is a yard tree which tend to use a lot of blades due to embedded objects. The sawyer may or may not provide the equipment to load the logs on the mill. Finally, a bad or inexperienced sawyer can ruin a lot of wood fast. Imagine each board cut tapering in thickness by an inch from end to end.

   Edited 8/21/2002 1:56:40 AM ET by Dick

1. 
   davamoore | Aug 21, 2002 04:01pm | #4

   Splintie's correct, WoodMizer will put you in contact with locals (if any) who own a bandsaw mill.

   And I second the response saying to contact local sawmills.  A few calls and someone will know someone who can do the job, usually.  When I was looking, I found several in half a day.

   And yes, be prepared to pay for a new blade, just in case.  Trees near houses, roads, etc. tend to have metal things stuck into them over the years that can wreck a blade in seconds.  It's your responsibility to replace the blade, if that happens (financially, not physicially, I mean!).

   And finally, my advice is to act soon.  I lost a huge red oak in my woods last year and dilly-dallied around, trying to justify the expense, figuring out how and when and where I'd build a drying shed or cover to store the lumber, blah, blah, blah... and never got around to actually doing it.  In the end, I probably lost a lot of great wood that despite all would still have been less expensive than buying it from a dealer... and missed the opportunity to create furniture that started, and finished, right here.  Of course, the owls now love what's left of the tree (food AND shelter!).

   DavidHmmm... the garden or the workshop today?

1. 
   badoyn | Aug 21, 2002 05:08pm | #5

   Heck , if you leave it around long enough you can get spalted oak. :o)

   Michael

3. 
   TimSams | Aug 21, 2002 10:51pm | #6

   Mark,

   You might consider calling Highland Hardware there in Atlanta and see if they have any sources. I bet they get this question a lot. Good luck.

   Tim

   ____________
   Tim Sams
   Associate Editor, Fine Woodworking
   Knots Moderator

4. 
   StanleyNiemiec | Aug 22, 2002 08:08am | #7

   If you are serious about converting the log to lumber, the first thing you need to do is get the ends coated to reduce moisture loss which can cause serious end split and it will also help minimize the intrusion of the yeastie/beasties.

   It would also be helpful, if the log is going to sit for an extended period of time, to get it off the ground but because of the size, it may not be possible.  Many commercial log yards are sprinkled to keep the logs from drying out.  It also helps retard the growth of certain organisms.  A perforated hose would probably be adequate and you don't have to have the water running all the time.

   And while everyone dreams of long beautiful boards, don't overlook the potential of shorter billets for turning squares or log quarters that might be resawn later.  This is especially pertians to straight grown short sections between branchs.  In the shorter lengths you can split 'em.  Straight grown (as in vertical) is the key word; send the stuff with grossly off-center pith to the firewood pile.