This maple will be taken down sometime this summer or fall. I have a number of questions that follow that I would like advice on.
1. Where to make the cuts on the tree to get the most out out the burl for drying milling?
2. How long to dry before milling or should it be milled then dried?
3. Should the burl be slabbed or sold for turning?
Thanks
Garry
Replies
Garry,
You might want to take a look at "Harvesting Urban Timber - A Complete Guide" by Sam Sherrill.Linden publishing, 2003. ISBN 0-941936-71-6
-Jazzdogg-
Whether you think you can, or you think you can't, you're right.
Thanks jazzdogg,
What kind of information does this book have? I am interested only because I have some interesting looking trees on on my property that might produce some interesting cuts if I knew before hand what to look for and how to make the initial cuts in the trees.
Garryhttp://www.superwoodworks.com
Garry, Your questions lead me to believe that you are not a turner. Am I correct? If you are not, I would suggest that you find someone near you that is. It is sometimes hard to tell from photos without something to give it scale, how large some things are. I am guessing that this burl is under 2' diameter. I can tell from the bark that there is a nice swirling pattern to the wood, at least at this point in its life, near the surface. It would only get better with time, and might not be much further in when it was smaller.
It would be good for only one or two normal or small size turnings, and the best way to handle these is to turn green. Some will turn a rough over-size blank, then let it dry, and finish turning. I like to turn start to finish green, then I am willing to accept the distorted shape after it has dried.
If you don't have a taker when you cut it, I would cut the trunk about 6" above and below the burl, and paint the ends. You would have about 2 -3 months after that to turn before the bugs move in, and less than that before blue stain and rot starts in warm weather.
If you like to turn vessels, and get white woods like this one with low rot resistance, it is best to get to it right away.
The best way to use burls is cutting into veneers or turnings. this is too small for veneers. It would be a waste to try to cut it into lumber, which only leaves turning.
My two cents, Keith
Where are you and how much do you want for it?
You are correct Keith, I am not a turner of this type, although I do have an intrest in this type of work just don't currently have the time to devote to expeirment. Most of the turnings I do are spindles type turnings.
I would say that the diameter is at least two foot. It is on the trunk of a very large tree although the photos do not reveal this well.
If this were cut as you suggest about six inches from the burl, painted the ends and stored inside on the second floor of my shop, would the pieces still become infested with bugs, blue stain and rot? After the burl is cut as you suggest could the trunk portion be cut in half to make it easier to handle without having an ill effect?I have a number of cherry burls stored upstairs now that have been there for over a year and am now wondering if this has been a waste of time and storage area?
What is a fair market value for the burl?I live in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan
ThanksGarryhttp://www.superwoodworks.com
I don't know if your cherry will get bugs or not, but it is very likely to be checked badly. I keep my turning stock outside in the shade right on the ground. Some people put theirs up on racks, but when they start drying too much, I wet them down with a garden sprinkler when they start to dry. You don't need to keep the back half of the tree, but keeping some of the wood next to the burl gives a turner a place to screw onto.I don't know how much your burl is worth. I harvest all of my own, and they are usually free.If have never turned green wood, you should give it a try. You will never want to turn dry again.If you want to find a buyer, I would suggest that you post a note on a forum here. http://www.woodturner.org/ I'll bet there is someone there who can help.
I would just chain saw that sucker off.. And cement the hole so the tree lives...
The tree needs to come down, the larger branch with the burl is leaning over a house and the tree is showing signs problems in the crotch area.http://www.superwoodworks.com
Geee.. I hate cutting down trees.. However I had to do that with a really old oak over my house once... No SHADE NOW! But I do NOT miss all the junk from it in the gutters...
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