Replies

1. 
   RickL | Jun 09, 2009 06:12pm | #1

   http://www.mcmaster.com  part #  2846A31  1/4" body but smaller or larger is availalble in 82 degrees.  Approx $7

   See also center drills. Lots of options in McMaster, Enco, Wholesale Tool for low cost.  You can learn a lot from reading a catalog as to what's out there.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 6/10/2009 7:46 am ET by RickL

2. 
   SawdustSteve | Jun 09, 2009 08:32pm | #2

   You can always fudge it a bit with a regular drill bit, or regrind a bit to the proper angle and keep it for the next time you need to do the same job.

   SawdustSteve Long Island, NY (E of NYC)

3. 
   ring | Jun 09, 2009 08:41pm | #3

   It's not rocket science, man. Just use a regular twist drill bit for metal.

   David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

1. 
   WillGeorge | Jun 10, 2009 01:13am | #4

   David..

   Your post surprised me a bit!

   He just asked a simple question and I'd guess he did not want to ruin the thin wall T Track.

   Sir...

   I only posted this because the reply was quite unlike your normal responses in here. Having a bad hair day? I get them about twice a week!

   No fight here Sir... I just had to respond and hope things are better for you today....

    

1. 
   ring | Jun 10, 2009 07:25am | #6

   Will, it was just a good-natured jab. If I wasn't smiling before I am now, after your post.regards,David Ring

   http://www.touchwood.co.il/?lang=e&id=1

4. 
   polarsea1 | Jun 10, 2009 02:16am | #5

   I've got one of these just for that purpose.

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=44708&cat=1,180,42240,42281&ap=1

    

5. 
   philip | Jun 10, 2009 10:08am | #7

   I suggest you grind an ordinary twist drill to that included angle, then relieve the cutting edges a bit with an oilstone or slip stone- as if for drilling brass.Experiment on some scrap aluminium until you get it to cut without grabbing or chattering. Easier done than said...
   You could also get an el cheapo counter sink for wood and reduce the diameter by grinding- doesn't need to be sophisticated so stick it in a cordless drill and turn it against a bench grinder wheel, which will also be running.

   Philip Marcou
6. 
   Cincinnati | Jun 10, 2009 04:33pm | #8

   Here is a 1/4" CS bit. I think I saw one at Lowes as well.

   http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/3P423

   Go with HSS as you can hone the edge and keep it sharp.  

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35

7. 
   knuts | Jun 10, 2009 08:08pm | #9

   I picked up a 5 bit set (Mibro), from Lowes I think.

8. 
   Beckum | Jun 11, 2009 08:27am | #10

   You could regrind and old center punch to the angle you need and just tap a pocket into the track to accommodate the screw. Counter sink the wood underneath a little to make room for the new dimple and you get to retain the full thickness of the track and you get a larger shoulder for the screw to ride. It makes a more secure hold for the track.

9. 
   Cincinnati | Jun 12, 2009 05:13pm | #11

   It just sunk in that you stated the T-Track need to be removable. How thick is the substrate it will be attached to?

   Does the T_Track really have to be removable? If so, Wood screws — especially small screws — are not ideal for something that has to be routinely mounted and removed. Can you add threaded inserts and use flat head machine screws?

   I don't know how the track is oriented, if on a vertical surface, can you cut a shallow dado. Even a 1/16 to 1/8 can provide vertical strength to the track mount.

   If the track is not going to hold much weight, perhaps you can cut the side walls back at the ends — maybe an inch — and use a larger screw to mount it - still with threaded inserts. I can see a way to do this and use Round Head machine screws so that you don't weaken the track bottom by cutting a countersink. Message back if you need more info on this idea.

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35

1. 
   peteram | Jun 12, 2009 07:57pm | #12

   Thanks for the input (everyone). I decided that I was spending too much time on this and went another route. Used some #6 sheet metal screws and ground down the head of the bolt that I am using in the track, to clear the screw heads. The bottom of the track is really too thin to countersink anyway. The track is sitting in a dado and can easily be removed if need be.
   Thanks again for all the replies.