I have recently finished a shaker style side table with a dovetailed drawer constructed from alder and black walnut. This is my first piece of furniture and I am not sure how to finish the drawer. I was planning to use danish oil on the piece, however I believe that I have read you never finish the inside of a drawer. If that is correct, do I just finish the drawer face and outside faces of the drawer? Thanks.
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Replies
I don't personally finish the inside of my drawers but I know some people shellac them. If you use an oil finsih like tung oil or danish oil on the inside, the drawer will stink for months. Shellac will dry quickly and have virtually no odor.
Thanks for the help. Do you apply any finish to the outside (sides and back) of your drawers or do you only finsh the drawer face? Or will this too cause a stinky odor?
I only apply finish to the face of the drawer and a little to all the edges to show off the dovetail joinery.
Don't use oil finish anywhere inside the case. I doubt any actual shaker drawer had finish on it except for the outside of the front, but if you must, use shellac or waterborne finish.
I spray the same waterborne finish to my drawers, both inside and out, that I use on the exterior of the furniture. As has been stated, many also use shellac. I never have, but hear that it is also a fine alternative. I plan on trying it very soon on a piece I'm working on now.
Jeff
i've used shellac, also nothing and years ago i used waterborne poly. i just finished some shaker candle boxes at xmas and used shellac inside. those three choices are good for inside pieces. i will say that any finish used on the interior has an odor. it may not be objectionable, but it has an odor and that odor will last for a long time. shellac is often purported to be odorless, but in my experience shellac has an odor that remains when used on interiors. it's not a volatile odor, kinda sweet i guess, but it's not odorless. i used the waterborne poly inside a sweater cabinet and i could smell that for more than five years after. it's not too bad, but it's there. cabinets i have hung in apts. have lacquer on them and inside i believe. that will burn your eyes as it gases off and is worse if the cabinets are left closed up.
Some cabinetmakers used what we now call tincture of benzoin and often called benjamin in old description. It gives a very distinctive odor than many find pleasant. (It only takes a few drops.) Surgeons still use it to attach things like steri-strips to close a wound. It is reasonably waterproof.
In my experience, top quality furniture always has finished drawers. Most any film finish will do. Stay away from slow drying oils like linseed or Danish oils, since they could leach onto clothes. I use up waterborne finishes that I didn't like and other assorted left overs. Some worry about off gassing or lingering smell from lacquers, polys, varnishes, etc. The odor doesn't last any longer than it does on the outside. I don't think the concern has any validity and you'll find the best furniture has drawers that are finished with the same products used on the exterior. A finish keeps the raw wood from getting stained, helps control moisture absorption, makes cleaning easy and looks attractive.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Consider what a finish is for. Mainly to protect the wood from moisture and abrasion. Wood exposed to moisture will often warp. Finishing the front side and not the back can cause an imbalance. Moisture will absorb on the back side only, causing the board to cup. You see this effect on many old tables that were not finished on the bottom side. It is less noticeable on cabinet work that is closed most of the time as there is not as much moisture change inside.
Finishing the inside of drawers serves two other purposes. It helps seals the wood from stains and gives it a smooth surface that will not allow fabric to snag on the grain or wood fiber.
Also lubricate all drawer runners and glides after finishing is complete. This will keep them running smooth and prevent ware. Wood to wood friction causes a lot of problems down the road, especially on large, heavily loaded drawers.
Steve Nearman
Fredericksburg, VA
The Master's Touch
Furniture Restoration Service
Quality restorations and repairs for over 35
years!
(540) 371-5566
http://FurnitureRepair.net/
Edited 1/13/2007 6:06 pm ET by uncleSteve
If you could work it that way, try to finish your drawrs before you assemble them. It ends up being a lot easier in the long run.
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