Replies

1. 
   JimV | Mar 06, 2007 05:48pm | #1

   Grab those cutoffs from the scrap box and start experimenting. When you find the finish you like, you know what to do with you project. I'm a firm believer that there is no one perfect finish.

   Jim

   "There are two spiritual dangers in not owning a farm. One is the danger of supposing that breakfast comes from the grocery, and the other is that heat comes from the furnace." - Aldo Leopold
1. 
   peter28 | Mar 07, 2007 04:35am | #3

   Great advice Jim. At the end of the day it all comes down to what pleases our eye.

   Peter

2. 
   peter28 | Mar 07, 2007 04:33am | #2

   Tim

   I think you posted this to me;

   First what is your finishing experience? What are you comfortable working with? If poly is what you like to work with so be it. Likewise shellac. Finishing recommendations can get very passionate. Just follow some of the Knots discussions and you'll see.

   There is no best or right finsh for everything. I wouldn't use the garnet shellac followed by the poly though. You could have issues over time.

   Shellac is a great finish on it's own. You may consider the garnet for this. Shellac will build a nice coating that dries quickly. Some advocate thinning it extensively, over thinning it as it were. I disagree. You get no body of film this way. Zinseer sells amber, and clear shellac as well as Seal Coat which is a blonde shellac. You can thin these with denatured alcohol as required. There are some handy references on the sides of the can. Shellac does like to be brushed quickly without going back over it like you would a paint. Lightly sand between applications. After your last coat dries. lightly sand the surface with some 400 or 600 grit paper. Follow this by rubbing the surface with steel wool and wax and you'll have a very satiny surface.

   If you are more comfortable doing an oil base finish, consider Waterlox Original. Follow the directions and this is as easy as it gets. Just DON'T apply the oil to the inside of the chest. You would be very sorry. It will smell for a very long time. If you really feel a need to finish the inside, a thin coat or two of shellac is all that's required. 

   If you want to do a wipe on poly, first apply a coat of the Seal Coat, lightly scuff sand it when dry with 320 or 400 and then use your poly.

   Let me know what you end up choosing and we can fine tune it if necessary.

   Peter

    

    

    

1. 
   oldcoot | Mar 08, 2007 04:35am | #4

   Peter,
   Thanks for the reply. I have used some shellac on some scrap and decided on just that. One more follow -up question if I may? I have been told many different formulas for cutting the shellac (Zinzers clear3 lb. cut). Some say 50% some say 30% any suggestions? on my test piece I tried 50% cut and 2 coats looked great. I am open to any and all pointers as this is my first time, but certainly not the last, using shellac.What a beautiful finish! Thanks for all your time, your opinions are well appreciated, Tim

1. 
   peter28 | Mar 08, 2007 05:09am | #5

   Tim,

   Try your next test piece with a 30% reduction and see if you like it and the way it works.

   You said the most important thing; I like the way it looks. Shellac is great to work with.

   You are probably fine working with it as you did, Just try it the other way too, so you have a comparison. There is nothing like tangible results you can hold in your hand.

   Be sure your samples are big enough to get a visual read. Also try brushing it out on some plywood or something of size to mimic the size of your blanket chest to get a "feel " for it.

   After it cures, you may consider rubbing it back with some wax and steel wool. The surface will have a subtle glow that will invite ooh's and ahh's as people run their hands across the surface. You'll see.

   Keep us posted on progress.

   Peter

    

3. 
   atcltd | Dec 01, 2021 07:39pm | #6

   Built a chest with Padauk top and bottom rail. Bottom rail got dark with Tung oil, no problems drying. The top was another story- sanded to 220 & applied thinned Tung oil as recommended - 3 weeks later it wasn't dry, after 2 Moore weeks I sanded it off and tried again...a week later it was still bleeding color when wiped with a clean rag....light sanding again... another coat...after a week it was still bleeding color on the dust rag. Went to Watco Danish oil, 3 coats sealed it

4. 
   jdstreet | Dec 01, 2021 07:54pm | #7

   I have used shellac (French polish), lacquer, and shop mixed oil finish. Shellac and lacquer were used on smaller pieces (i.e. boxes, turnings). I used the oil on a valet chest. I did that chest about 15 years ago and it has held up very well.

   I also did an experiment on a display plate I turned. When freshly turned the wood was a bright orangish/red color. I mixed a TransTint dye the same color as the wood. Applied it and the finished with lacquer. While my oiled valet looks good and the finish has worn well the Padauk is quite medium brown in color. After about 8 years that dyed plate looks the same bright color.

5. 
   _mj_ | Dec 01, 2021 09:44pm | #8

   This thread is 15 years old.