Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jun 12, 2010 10:57am | #1

   wormholes

   Don't dive into the wormhole! It doesn't go to another, potentially better part of the universe.  ;-)

   It depends on the look that you're going for, I think. Personally, since the holes will likely be otherwise problematic, I'd fill them with dark-to-black material, perhaps epoxy. That might be a bit of a chore, though. I'd say filling after staining, but before applying the finish. That way, the filler doesn't prevent local absorption of the stain. Restaining might be needed after sanding down the filler, though.

   But, I'll be interested in reading other responses and technique suggestions. Especially since I've never actually done what I proposed.

1. 
   kristenmark12 | Jul 05, 2016 03:43pm | #6

   Download the Best Woodworking Plan

   I did lot of review about wood working plan and I found One of the best website, I am using for my wood working, it contains all woodworking plans include workbench plans, shed plans, chair ... blueprints and detailed instructions for building all kinds of wooden, Have a great day.

2. 
   BruceS | Jun 12, 2010 12:26pm | #2

   Worm holes

   Personally!   Go natural,  If a project would look great with worm holes, use it.   If not, find wormless.   But I sure wouldn't try to disguise the holes,  some people pay extra for the holes.

3. 
   DonStephan | Jun 12, 2010 06:22pm | #3

   Filling worm holes in coarse grain like oak can be a challenge - either fill all the pores also, or keep the filler out of the surrounding pores.  Neighbor  will simply fill with tinted wax after finishing using a pointed piece of basswood to put the wax just in the hole itself and not in the surrounding pores.

4. 
   cahudson42 | Jun 17, 2010 02:12pm | #4

   I'm with BruceS, leave natural and use on project where they will accentuate it.

   But a question is? Could there still be active bugs in the wood? Powder Post beetles love Red Oak. Do you know what bug made the holes? Powder Post exit holes are maybe about 1 mm. They are most always in the lighter sapwood. Before exiting as mature beetles, they can be eating away inside unseen as grubs for years. Until one spring you find a bunch of new holes with 'frass' (fine sawdust) around the hole. If this happens in your woodshed that has unprotected/unfinshed hardwood, or the home - they can easily infect new rough timber, or home furniture with any 'break' in the surface finish.

   If the Bugs/holes are only in the sapwood, I will usually simply cut that away - and consider it waste. This should take 'most' of any grubs with it - but not always.

   You can heat the board to greater than 130 degrees for I forget how many hours - to kill them. Or quickly, very quickly, freeze the board in the freezer for a day or so. That also will kill them.

   There are commercial borate-based solutions that will also kill them. Surface water-based treatments  will kill them on exit, and prevent them from reinfecting - but usually will not immediately kill the grubs. Polyethelene Glycol-based borate solutions will soak in and eventually kill them - but are obscenely expensive.

   You can make homemade versions of both of these using 21-MuleTeam Borax from the Laundry aisle, and 'Roach Powder' (orthoboric Acid) sold in the box stores.  If you want the formulas I have them somewhere and can Post them.

   Let us know.

   Chris

   Since the b

5. 
   susanneellis | Jun 25, 2016 09:35pm | #5

   info on how to get rid of worms in wood

   chris could you please post the formula for kill the worms in wood please and thank you

   susanne