Replies

1. 
   WillGeorge | Feb 16, 2010 07:30pm | #1

   I have never used Wenge but I have used much Panga-Panga that I think is about the same wood? Not sure. I found that it loves to be as God made it! Some color may get in there but I doubt it! But then again I am NOT a finisher. And my second thought is why use very expensive Wenge if you want to change it?

   My Panga-Panga does NOT take on any stain or whatever except into the grain pores. It seems to take on a oil in some areas.

   Maybe do what I did? Polish it with sticks of different grits on a linnen buffing wheel.

   Hand oils may work over time?

2. 
   gdblake | Feb 16, 2010 11:36pm | #2

   Drspur:

   Anytime you plan to use a new finishing technique test it on scrap wood first.  Same goes for putting any type of finish on a wood species you aren't familiar with.  That said, Wenge really pops under a clear finish, I can't imagine wanting to stain it first.

   gdblake

1. 
   drspur | Feb 17, 2010 03:54pm | #4

   Clear stain is what I was thinking, then a topcoat finish of Waterlox.  the difficulty is that the Myrtle and the Wenge are next to each other so what goes on one will go onto the other.  thanks for your help.

3. 
   murrek | Feb 17, 2010 11:40am | #3

   Try a thin coat of bullseye sealcoat dewaxed shellac followed by an oil based varnish.  Since the sealcoat uses an alcohol solvent, the natural oils in the wenge don't interfere with it drying.  Once the shellac dries, the natural oils are locked in the wood and you can use an oil based top coat without drying prolems.  There is an article in FWW about this, try searching "finishing oily woods."

   Just make sure you apply a THIN coat of sealcoat, it can get messy if you apply too much or overbrush.