I am putting together my first dedicated home workshop. I enjoy making furniture, cabinets, etc. I want to make the right choices up front in hopes that machine purchases will last a lifetime. To prevent this from being a long post, I have listed my current tools/machines and my wish list that I plan on buying in the document linked below.
I would like your input on my choices. What are your best purchases? What do you wish you had never purchased?
Replies
I'm just a newbie myself so can't help you much, but the first thing the pros are going to ask you are "what are you going to build?" One of my first questions is "How are you going to fit in a Sawstop if you don't have room for a cabinet saw?" I have never seen one of these Festool outfits, but it would seem to me that they would be pretty spacey. One thing you might do is get the measurements of your shop and plot out the arrangement of your tools. It might fool you. I need to do the same thing as I'm sort of in the same process.
It looks like you have put quite a bit of thought into this. I too had a Shopsmith Mk V with the BS, hated the tablesaw and the BS and in its last 15 years in my shop it was relegated to the drill press and lathe functions. I eventually sold it as it really was a lousy lathe and a marginally acceptable drill press. I seldom used the horizontal boring machine. Some of the tools you currently have or intend to buy, I currently own or have owned in the past. I offer the following considerations:
Hope this helps,
Steve
Cincinnati,
Depending on your financial position, and your desire, I'd think long and hard about $1400 or $1500 for Festool. I'm sure it's good, but that's an awful lot of money for what benefit? I'd save that money and put it into the sawstop as safety seems to be your primary concern. I saw a demo of it on This Old House Sunday, and it is impressively fast-acting. Didn't put a ding on the hotdog Tom used in place of his finger. Yes, 3 hp is more than enough unless you're cutting railroad ties. For a circular saw, I'd get a Bosch or Milwaukee and make my own guide. I did, and with a decent blade, I get cabinet-grade cuts in plywood, for little money. If a bandsaw with 12" resaw is what you need, look hard at the new Rikon 14. About $850. Build your own router table from plans ih the archives here, and stick in a Triton or Freud. Make your own insert from 3/8 lexan from Lee Valley, or buy one.
Move the jointer up to first or second, because without a jointer to make one side flat, the planer is nearly useless-unless you want to build a sled to flatten one side. The jointer is essential. 6" will do nicely, but 8" is better if you have the room. Don't break the bank here, because they are all good, and all do about the same thing. The DeWalt DW 735 is an excellent choice. Very dependable, very good finish, very user friendly.
Dust collection is important, but you can get by with cheap and move it from machine to machine. Convert the bags to cartridge filter (see http://www.wynnenv.com) and you'll have a system 99.5% effective down to .05 microns. For sanders, routers, circ saws, etc. go to http://www.cpotools.com and click on factory rebuilt. Save money, get new warranty. Also remember, one can never have too many clamps. Spend your money wisely. A billion here, a billion there, pretty soon you're talking real money.
Steve
There are two secrets to keeping one's wife happy.
1. Let her think she's having her own way.
2. Let her have her own way. President Lyndon Baines Johnson
I vote for the moving the jointer up on the list, too. My first one was a 6" Sears that was given to me, so it was worth every penny. But it did not have an adjustable outfeed table and blade alignment was a real pain. I've been really pleased with the quality and service from Grizzly products.
I have a lot of stuff in a small shop that also has to hold a couple of cars, so I've gone to a lot of trouble to make my shop versatile. All my machines are on wheels, yet have a solid footing. I don't like chasing my table saw as I'm ripping maple. About the only items in my shop that are not on wheels are my benches. I've made carts for holding sheet goods, scraps, etc.
My wall cabinets all have doors on them to help keep dust off the contents. All the cabinet doors are frame and panel construction with a peg board panel. This allows me to have commonly used tools hanging where I can get to them easily, but I still have a lot of shelf space. I even hang things on the inside of the cabinet door. Strong hinges are a must here.
One of the best investment I've made was my table saw BLADES. I've got blades made by Amana, Systematic, Freud and others. The one I really like is my Forrest Woodworker II. I'm amazed at how clean the kerf edge comes out. It cuts cleanly for both crosscuts and rips.
I made my router table, too. I covered it (top and bottom) with formica and edge banded it with maple. I made my own insert out of stainless steel, but that was really tough. Just buy one. Or several. Your PC 690 will work fine for table use, but you should get a plunge router with a lot of power for best results. Variable speed is really nice, too.
I have a 14" Taiwan band saw that works really well. I bought the 6 inch frame extension which allows me to resaw up to 12 inches. There are a lot of really good articles on the FWW website about setting up and using a bandsaw. If you follow these recommendation, you can get amazing results from a $300 bandsaw.
Last thing... about safety. An old wood shop teacher told me once "Never take your eye off a moving cutting tool." If you are looking at a moving saw blade, router bit, jointer blade, etc. you will never stick your finger in it. Every time I've been injured by one of my woodworking tools, it was because I wasn't following the shop teacher's advice. There are obviously other safety issues to consider, but if you always follow this advice, you will minimize your risk.
Good Luck,
Jim
Cincinati,
I'm really not familiar wih the Festool stuff so that automatically get scratched from my list. Besides, it sounds as though your going to build mostly solid wood projects and, therefore, will need a more focused emphasis on milling,joinery and accurate assembly.
The workbench, to me, is key with the type of project your anticipating. From gluing up small panels, jointing or planing stock, to using jigs to help repeatability the workbench is key and saves lots of money. Also, your project will require lots of resawing of 5/4 and 8/4 stock..milled flat and square. Lastly your going to require lots of groves and dado along with M&T.
I'd buy the Grizzly with a built in router table, great price, small footprint. Gotta have a bandsaw, 14" is adequate.
Gotta have a planer. You'll also need a good dado set for the TS, a good miter guage for the TS, a larger router for the router table.....router bits, etc.
If you step back a bit and think about the process steps of your project I'm sure you'll see not only what you need to do it right... but also what you need when it doesn't go right. good luck
Cincinnati
A drill press (table top radial) or floor model I see as an important shop tool. Did you have a thickness planer on the list? It is a good mate to a jointer.
A belt sander is a friend indeed, as is an orbital and a vibrating sander.
I did not see any hand planes in your list so I will assume that you do not have any. A jack plane is a great general purpose first plane as is a block plane for tweaking parts during assembly.
I assume you are well equipped in squares with at least 1 false square for transferring angles,and straight edges...if not you should be.
A steel rule is outstanding, either 6" or even 12", for laying out
Hammers are interesting. I am sure you have one, but a 16 oz or 22 oz hammer is not what I mean. You want lighter hammers for cabinet work, ideally one with a square head so that you can get into corners. A good dead blow hammer is useful for assembly, but the 16 oz all purpose hammer and a block of wood will do the trick.
There are MANY hand tools I can get into. Marking tools, cutting tools and the list goes on...I will assume you have what you want for now.
Forgive me if I go where I should not have. It was not clear to me what you did not have. If you want more info along these lines ask; I, and a ton of others , will be more than happy to chime in. JL
The best purchase I ever made is a jointer and a thickness planer. The worst was a cheap marking gauge.
What make/model is your jointer and planer?Seems like nearly every time I purchase a cheap tool, I never enjoy using it.
They are both Rigid. I bought them at Home Depot, because they did not charge any interest for a year. I bought them both at the same time, and that's the only way I could afford them. I bought them both at the same time because you kind of need both of them to prepare your stock correctly. I don't think I could have gotten them anywhere else for 0% interest, but I didn't shop around that much. They are perfect for what I use them for. They came straight out of the box without needing any adjustment. That was important since I am sort of new at this.
Look for used stuff, my shop is full of ’50-‘60 vintage Delta/Rockwell etc.. Unisaw, 13’ planer, Iturra design hot rodded 14” band saw w/ riser, (all the band saw you’ll need BTW). A Boice Crane jointer, Delta drill press, Craftsman ½” shaper, I have less than $3000.00 in the whole lot and not much labor. If you can do a brake job on a car you can rebuild a Unisaw or PM 66 easy and save a ton of money and you’ll be able to maintain and adjust it with no problems.
It is beyond me why anyone wants to bookmatch drawer bottoms, but what the .....? Since you want a lot of bookmatching, veneering equipment might be something to put high on your list. Bookmatching is much easier, not to mention cheaper, with veneer than solid wood.
Anyway, I agree with everyone else about the jointer. It goes high on the list. I have an 8-incher, but 6-inchers today usually have longer beds, so that is good enough. Rikon offered a 10-inch jointer/planer combination recently. If that becomes available again, it interests me. Wider is definitely better until weight becomes a factor which it does with 8-inchers. A decent drill press is a capital idea also. Since you have a Porter Cable router, a Porter Cable 4212 or 4216 dovetail jig would be a good choice.
Tools I own that please me very much are Delta 14-inch bandsaw, Ridgid oscillating belt/spindle sander, Delta 17-965 drill press, PC 890 routers, PC dovetail jig, and Bosch 1/2-sheet orbital sander. I am also quite satisfied with a Delta contractor table saw, Yorkcraft jointer, Delta mortising kit and tenoning jig, and Delta 12.5-inch planer. My Performax drum sander has a feed belt which simply will not track properly and, usefulness and cost considered, is not worth what I paid though it is very sturdily constructed. A power-driven waterstone sharpening system was too slow, too messy, and of too little use to me also.
Just my feelings for what they are worth.
Cadiddlehopper
" …It is beyond me why anyone wants to bookmatch drawer bottoms"Might be because the drawers are removable trays that my clients will see. Might be because I'm also a bit eccentric. The true reason is probably a combination of both.I don't see this as a big task; it adds a lot visually, and impresses my clients in a positive way — the little things make the difference. I could probably finish a day sooner if I would just install plywood bottoms.I also finish the back of my furniture with as much care as I take on the front — even though it will sit against a wall.I appreciate the comments about moving the jointer up higher on the list. It would probably have been first until I read about a way to flatten using a jig on the planer. My intent is to use that method until I can afford all the machinery I need. I agree that as soon as the budget will allow, I should get a jointer. Is anybody else using the planer and a sled to flatten boards?
It is nice to have TWO reasons for doing something eccentric, but only one --eccentricity-- is enough to satisfy me. In fact, psychologists are starting to tell us that eccentricity is a fine trait to have and that we should treasure our own.Usually drawer bottoms are covered with drawer contents thus hidden from view. That fact inspired my comment. I finish my furniture backs also. I have one piece that I wish my wife would relocate because the back seems more attractive than the front! My most powerful eccentricity is against using a nail or brad anywhere in a piece of furniture. I will use staples to attach upholstery to a seat panel, but they must remain out of sight.About the jointer: You probably would be wise to buy a good 8-incher with a shorter bed since you mention limited space and a decent planer with a cutter locking device which reduces snipe. DeWalt is not the only good one. This will probably save you much time processing all the wood you plan use. Those sleds look tedious to use. If all those drawers are of conventional construction, a bandsaw capable of resawing seems to be a rather vital item to have also.About bookmatched drawer bottoms: Here is where veneer would be great. Veneer can be had in wider pieces than you are likely to be able to make solid. Both sides can and should be veneered. Vacuum bagging is probably the best approach with limited space. Limited space reminds me to mention that SawStop may make a contractor model saw eventually. You may want to wait for that to upgrade the table saw.My hat is off to you! You have plans for a most ambitious project!Cadiddlehopper
I hate to admit this, but most of what I do for pleasure has element of eccentricity involved.It looks like I would need machinery with a mobile base for times when working longer boards and sheet materials. I would like the 8" jointer - and will investigate long and short bed models to see what I can accommodate.If I can afford a good bandsaw, it will one of my initial purchases. I am looking at estate sales to see what is used in our area. I am comfortable rebuilding equipment. But I don't have knowledge about designs of older equipment to know what it's strengths and shortcomings are. At lease with the new models, we have several reviews available that include things like column deflection, runout, etc.Thanks for all your comments.
"I hate to admit this, but most of what I do for pleasure has element of eccentricity involved."Take heart! As I said, psychologists say that is a good thing. There is no reason for hating to admit it. I hope I'm that way myself, proudly. I am also pathologically curious, and currently particularly curious about your business that involves showing clients your drawer bottoms. I suspect that you produce some sort of objets d'art which fits these drawers. But, I don't have to know.Luckily, my shop is equipped to do the project that you plan. Space is not an issue for me except that it is broken up in an inconvenient way and occupies a second floor. Being on a second floor, I have concluded that 250 pounds is about the maximum weight for a tool. With limited space, your requirements are different without a doubt.Good luck still,Cadiddlehopper
I'm a portrait photographer. Orders will be kept in removable drawers — trays really. I will carry the tray to the client and present the images to them.Products delivered consist of smaller tabletop portraits and books.If the description doesn't satisfy your curiosity, you can look at a website which need redesigned, but will show you the types of work I do:http://www.portergallery.com
Edited 2/19/2007 10:17 pm ET by Cincinnati
Photography -- another of my hobbies. Thank you for satisfying my curiosity.I had the most awful time keeping the dust out of my darkroom. Better luck to you.Cadiddlehopper
Cincinnati,
"Is anybody else using the planer and a sled to flatten boards?"
I don't have a jointer so I made the sled about 6 months ago, but, quite frankly, have not used it yet. I have two excuses: I'm used to hand planes and only rough flatten before glue up. Also, I have not figured out how to set the stock level(or parrallel to the planer) on the sled. Usually, by the time I'd finish with all the futzing I'd have the damn thing planed.
I must second Fussy's notion of making your own circular saw cutting guide. The Festool looks very nice and I am sure it performs as described. I am coming from a trim carpenter background where sometimes one must just make do. I had to fit a series of shelves to corners and used my ho-made cutting guide. I had recently seen the festool ad for their CS and tried a few cuts without using any clamps and it worked just fine.
I also second the idea that you musn't under estimate the importance of a good solid bench. Mine is made with a mahogany veneered solid core door gleened from a remodeling job. Very flat-very stable although a bit splintery at the edges.
I used to watch Norm on tv as he went from one specialized tool to another to do some project and wondered if the mark a good woodworker was "can you get by with what you've got?"
I think that you meant to address this to someone else.Cadiddlehopper
I double-checked the name at the top of this thread and you are correct. I am somewhat new to this web chat stuff (are we "chatting"?). I see now what happened. I read the entire thread, top to bottom, then if I have anything to say I click reply in the LAST post. There lies my error.
I love learning new thing but am generally frustated by computers and the web.
thanks for the tip.
" am generally frustated by computers and the web"Aren't we all? I thought it the neighborly thing to inform you.Cadiddlehopper
I have nearly always bought old and heavy, cast iron goods. They do not wear out, and whilst they do not have bells and whistles, they hum along because the motors are big enough.
Try to include an old DW radial arm set up to just crosscut. I paid only £70 (say$140) for mine and it is so useful.
Cincinnati,
Congratulations on starting your new home workshop. It'll be a long fun journey - stay at it!
Here's my 2 cents: I am in full agreement with a few of the other posters about moving the jointer higher up on your list. I had a 6" Rigid jointer which was nice, but soon moved up to an 8" DJ20 and love it. I also own the Festool CT33, 1400EQ router, TS EQ55 circ saw, RO 150 6" sander and the PSB 300 EQ jig saw - all of them I love and you won't be disappointed with the circ saw hooked up to a dust extractor but I would gladly give them all up to keep my Delta 3HP cabinet saw. I purchased it with the Biesmeyer fence and an Excalibur guard and feel very safe using it.
IMO seeing that you have 3 sons and plan on ww for life, if you think they'll be out in the shop with dad, I would take my time and build up my shop with high quality machines and tools - I would go with a good solid cabinet saw (heart of the shop), a tough jointer (backbone of the shop), and a good quality planer - I had a Dewalt DW735 which was okay but it screamed like a jet, I would look into some reviews on that model I heard it didn't do so well (I think the reviews were on Amazon) - I upgraded it to a 15" Delta planer and never looked back. I also have an 18" Jet bandsaw - pretty good machine for $1K - and I use it all the time. I would also consider building a good solid workbench as opposed to using the Festool MFT - I've played around on one and I don't think it would be great for prolonged heavy duty activity - again just my opinion. As far as a router table - I have the JessEm Mast-R-Lift w/ black phenolic top, Mast-R-Lift Excel w/ MicroDial, Mast-R-fence, and Mite-R-Slide - this is one sweet package, it floats like a butterfly and stings like a bee. I just built a cabinet under it and would be more than happy to send you pics.
These are just a few of the main work horses for the shop, keep in mind you'll need power tools and hand tools - get high quality layout tools - they're invaluable.
Hope this helps!
Bosh,
I am interested in seeing pics of the cabinet you built for the Jessem Excel top. How did you deal with the miter track design under the tabletop?
Here's what I have:
If you could budget, - "if I were you and could go a step up":
Cincinnati...I had a long reply typed out and lost it when I went to look at your list. So I'll shorten my reply and cut to the quick. I agree with most of what everybody is telling you to buy this and that. Preparing material is the cornerstone of fine woodworking. You can't make quality work with poorly prepared material that is not flat and square. So I agree with everyone who suggests a cabinet saw, jointer, planer is critical to the heart of a woodworking shop. But this is not the important message I want to impart to you. I've been on the same journey for the last year myself, and I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed the journey and the satisfaction I feel now when I walk into my shop.
Take your time. Carefully shop around. You are only going to do this once, or at least just once for a long time. So take your time and enjoy the journey of acquiring your machines.
Most of my machines I bought used, in new condition. I not only got the best machines, in my opinion, but I got really good deals on those machines as well. I had plenty of budget, but why waste money. Very satisfying. It's taken me a year to put it together, and as I assembled my shop, I also have been building my woodworking workbench, which is also one of the most important 'tools' in any woodworkers shop. I also plan to build a dead flat torsion box table for assembling my projects on, but I digress. As I said, the message I am imparting to you is...take your time...and enjoy the journey....Jeff
Nice starter list. I started with a Shopsmith and made some really nice stuff for 5-6 yrs. I broke my back in 2000 and afterwards I found the time and effort to do the changeovers unbearable.
I have the Delta tablesaw and it is GREAT, not one complaint. I don't think I would pay big $$ for the Sawstop just to show my friends how to cut a hotdog. heh-heh
The one thing I regret buying....a house with only a 2 1/2 car garage. Should have at least a 4 or 5. Do I hear an AMEN BROTHER ?
Best of luck, your best days are ahead and measured in board-feet.
I appreciate everyone’s advice. This is what I was soliciting, but I never dreamed I’d get more than a handful of responsesFirst, my philosophy on buying tools. I enjoy using well engineered, well designed tools that perform flawlessly operation after operation. I typically invest in more than what I think I need rather than to compromise. I need to reach critical mass – having everything I need to work – as quickly as possible.As far as my new tool / machinery purchases, if I could get everything factory reconditioned, I would. I found the DW735 DeWalt Planer advertised as reconditioned for $365 as opposed to $549 new. But all the reconditioned units were out of stock. Unless the recon units are back in stock, I’ll probably end up buying new and taking advantage of the $60 current rebate. (My local Woodcraft has a sale that will save another 10% on March 1. )I’d like to buy used and recondition the tools myself, The first challenge is finding the machine I want. Then knowing what it will take to make it a precision machine. These machines are so heavy that freight alone is $350 to $550. I am leery of investing sight unseen. Even if sellers are willing to permit me to return them, I am looking at $700 to $1100 in 2-way freight unless I can find them locally.I’ve been looking for used Festool products. They too are difficult to find. Same with used Laguna Tools Bandsaws. This indicates to me that owners just don’t sell them or that when they are avaiiilable they move quickly.The most recommended change was to move the jointer up on the priority list. I agree, but I think I have a workaround. I want an 8” jointer and a 15” planer. My budget won't permit getting everything at once. So here’s my plan:Most pre-dimensioned lumber I have purchased is poorly machined. With a planer I can take advantage of the lower prices of rough lumber and get a better milled finish; I won’t have to spend so much time smoothing and sanding. I have the planer higher because I can use it to function somewhat like a jointer. (I can use a sled to flatten and straighten one side of the board, then plane the other side parallel to the desired thickness.) I know this is not ideal and will take a little more time, but if I had a jointer WITHOUT a planer, I could get one side flat, but not achieve uniform thickness.In order to get an edge straight and perpendicular to the planed face, I will clamp a straight edge to the wood and run a router with a flush trim bit down that edge. Here also, not as fast or convenient as using a jointer, but I can do this for a short time until I can get the jointer.The bandsaw is first on my list because I can resaw, and with limitation rip with it. I am leaning toward a Laguna Tools LT16HD with a 1" Resaw King blade . They have it on special during February for $2695 including an accessory package and delivery on a lift gate truck to my shop doors. I was initially willing to go $1500 for an industrial bandsaw. Ironically, this morning (on exfactory.com) I located a used 2001 Laguna LT14 SE for $1500 (Condition: 2.5 on a scale of 5). But add $350 freight, $250 for replacing the guides, $225 for a Resaw King blade, $75 for another 3 blade package, and I’m at $2400 with no warranty. For an additional $295, I get a new unit, with engineering improvements, and a full year warranty, (LT also agreed to let me lock in the price now, but pay and take delivery in 90 days.) This received the top review in FWW.I want the table saw now too. But I have “work arounds” with a Festool circular saw and guide rail. I built a complete office cabinet system from ¾ birch ply using a square to accurately locate a 96” clamp-n-guide and an 18V Dewalt cordless circular saw. I was able to produce more precise cuts results than with my Shopsmith table saw. I can do this until I can afford or find a refurb/used table saw.At this point I will have invested $5400 without the jointer or table saw.A few people commented on the importance of a workbench. I plan on building one very soon after setting up — A tool cabinet also.I need to add a few clamps. I own a set of chisels, bits, etc.As much as I’d like a Jessem Mast-R system Router table/lift, I will build my own cabinet and go the manual route (pun intended) for a while.For the dovetailed drawers, I am undecided on a Leigh jig or the Jointech cabinet makers system. They are both about the same price. I would like to hear from people who own these products.
Wow, for $5,400.00 I could, with just a little careful shopping around, get a complete shop full of used heavy Delta/Rockwell and Powermatic cast iron in great shape. If you are in <!----><!----><!---->Cincinnati<!----><!---->, there have to be some good used machinery dealers around. My entire shop full of machinery didn’t cost near that much. I have never understood the Festool thing, they look great for on-site work but seem to me to be cumbersome in a shop setting and the price, OMG! Put that table saw higher on the list too.
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As far as dovetails go, learn to hand cut them first, then get a jig, (I love my Kellar’s, they have well over 400 blanket chests to their credit). In fact, learn to mill your lumber by hand first, that is the best way to fully understand the process involved. Even with a shop full of machines and power hand tools I build at least one piece a year completely by hand jut to stay proficient at it.
Years from now, when you buy that table saw and jointer, you will wish you were anatomically able to kick yourself in a certain place.Cadiddlehopper
I must be tired. I am not following your comments in post #31. I understand the graphic depiction, just not the following your thoughts. Please explain.
It seems to me (woodworking forty years) that a jointer and tablesaw (about $1200 worth) are much more vital to the project you describe than $2700 worth of bandsaw and some obscenely expensive hand power tools. The work-arounds will be extremely time consuming. They will probably be frustrating and even disappointing. You will not realize this fact until you acquire the saw and jointer and learn what they do for you.Bookmatching resawn solid lumber may be something of a disappointment also. Except with quartersawn lumber, material removed by the saw kerf causes a degradation of the mirroring. Veneer, which is sliced with a knife edge, offers an almost perfect mirror image. If I were your customer, I would notice.As a previous poster noted, he could equip an entire shop for $5400. That is about the value of my tools if they were new, not used. They could equip a two- or three-man cabinet shop quite well.Cadid
I agree with you and some others that a $2700 bandsaw seems excessive. However, resawing lumber is high on my priority list. This led me into the industrial line of machinery. The lower priced bandsaws like the Delta/Grizzley et. al. have a max resaw capability of 6" give or take. So to achieve my goals, I'm now into the industrial line. Selling new at $3000 and up, I began looking for a used one. I direct you to my earlier post that led me to plan on going with a new unit. (The LT 16HD package that I am leaning toward is about $3350, on special for $2695.)With respect to a table saw, I know I can get a comparable saw for $2000 less than the Sawstop. But I am willing to invest that additional money for the only reason that I have 3 sons who already want to build their version of everything I build. It doesn't relieve my responsibility to teach them safe practices, but how do you put a price on a child's finger or fingers when we are talking about the potentially most dangerous machine in my shop? Many people consider this excessive too. If the machine were not one of the best on the market, I would not get it.I struggle with a few issues in buying used. The first is risk. I would feel more confident buying a used machine and rebuilding it if I had already owned one and knew what it took to keep it aligned and purring along. Since I have not, I rely on sources like this forum and the magazine reviews and manufacturers. Another is finding the machine I want. If I wanted a to buy a 2004 Suburban, I could locate several for sale within 100 miles. Try finding a used LT16HD or a used Sawstop. Please understand how important everyone's feedback is to me. I don't know you, your talent, experience or your personal views on spending money. So I put your advise in the mix with all the others and I make my decision. Your last post caused me to reconsider not investing $800 in the Festool system. Not because I don't think they are worth it, but because it is an interim solution to the tablesaw/jointer. I already have an interim solution.As far as the magazine reviews, I don't know the testers either. I am wondering if I put too much stock in their conclusions? Both the LT bandsaw and the Sawstop took top honors in the FWW reviews. I wander what the real difference is between 1st and last place. They proclaim to target the intermediate woodworker. How many intermediate level craftsmen would invest in the Laguna Tools Bandsaw? How much should a review weigh in our purchase decision?
Edited 2/24/2007 8:41 am ET by Cincinnati
FYI: The Delta/Grizzly/Jet/Ridgid bandsaws can resaw 12 inches with a $100 accessory which is a snap to install.It is your life. Spend it doing things your way.Cadiddlehopper
Do you have that accessory on your bandsaw?
Yes.Cadid
Well, as far as bandsaws go, I have a 1980’s vintage Delta 14” that I have about $800.00 total invested in. It has a riser block that allows 12” resaw capacity with a 2 hp motor; I have “hot-rodded” it with the outstanding parts from:
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Iturra Design4636 <!----><!----><!---->Fulton RD<!----><!---->Jacksonville<!---->, <!---->FL<!----> <!---->32225-1332<!----><!---->1.888.722.7078 voice1.904.642.2802 fax<!----><!---->
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It will stay right with any of the Euro style welded frame saws. I have resawn thousands of feet of hardwoods and many hundreds of green wood bowl blanks with it. Save yourself a ton of money on the saw and buy timber.
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As to the Sawstop, if you want to teach your kids woodworking I believe that you should instruct them in the proper use of power tools when they are ready to handle it. Reliance on some safety gizmo, and that is just what I consider it, is just plain foolish. The MOST important safety tool is you brain.
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As to tool reviews, they are pretty much worthless. It is all subjective anyway. How you work, what you want to make, etc. is what is going to determine the tools you use.<!----><!---->
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Used tools hold little risk at all. If you have the manual dexterity to build furniture, you can easily rebuild woodworking machines. They are far simpler than a brake job on a car. And remember, all power tools require maintenance and adjustments, if you rebuild them, that maintenance is not going to be a problem at all.
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