How to Make a Fence for Routing a Cove
I found this video by Steve Latta very good about making a fence to rout a cove:
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/06/11/how-to-make-a-rule-joint?discussion=comment&cid=651551#comment-651551
I am waiting for the bit set I bought but have been researching some how to information. I am going to rout 1/4″ coves on the tops and bottoms of staves. I am making the coopered tray from Peter Lutz’ article, December 2018, No. 121. My main worry is to prevent blow out. The fence should help. I have doubts about trying a short climb cut on the right side. Any tips?
Replies
The best way to prevent tearout in most situations is to use backer blocks to push your workpiece like a push stick. A simple 6x6 block of wood preferably 1" or wider run vertically along the fence and used to push the workpiece through would support the wood fibers as the router bit exited. Just let the bit cut into the push block until the workpiece is clear then pull it back. To keep the bottom edge as stable as possible.
Thanks esch, I'll do that.
Having reread your post if you are routing the end of narrow boards it would be wise to add an additional 6 x 6 block at a right angle to the upright one to help keep the narrow workpiece square and stable. Just be very careful where you would place any metal fasteners to insure the router bit does not hit them. If you used a thick upright 1 1/2" you probably could simply just countersink screws deep enough to avoid striking a cove bit.
I would build the jig Lutz pictured in the article for routing the coves. It looks simple enough to build and deals with the angled cuts on each side of the stave made for the coopering. A clamp laying around the shop could replace the one he's using that's mounted to the jig.
Thanks, I forgot to mention that I am using a temporary router set-up, using my bench top bench, and holding the router upside down in the vise. I'm not sure if I have enough room for the jig that Lutz used, but I can use a small fence and two push sticks in my situation.
I finished routing all the coves and dados on the staves since the bit set arrived in the mail. The push sticks I used looked like what Lutz uses in the article except with a C clamp with a thin wood slat taped to the metal to keep from bruising the pieces. The C clamp became the side push stick. The fence was similar to the one Latta made in the video and worked fine. Now I'll glue it up and later post a picture.
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled