I have attached a sketch of a cove set into a flat board with the overhang shown on 3 sides of the board. I was able to do it, but I had a devil of a time in the crossgrain sides. I started to use a monocutting head on a tablesaw and a radial arm saw to make the radius. It worked fine cutting with the grain. The effort was anything but smooth on cross grain sides. I finally used a router bit, but I was just able to raise the bit high enough to get the radius I wanted. I guess my question is: What is the best way to produce a large radius “flute” in the middle of a board (say 1 inch or more in radius)?
The reason I ask the question in this way is that I might want to make a very long overhang sometime with a radius well away from the edge of a board (more overhang than shown).
Replies
A vertical raised panel bit (in router) easily produces the profile you describe.
Not sure why you'd want that in the middle of a board, but you could use a cove-cutting technique(fence and blade askew) on the tablesaw, and square up the remaining cut with the tablesaw.
Eric,
I would cut the cove, flute, whatever you want to call it, by clamping a diagonal fence to the tablesaw, and running the stock across either a sawblade or molding cutterhead with round nosed cutter. Then saw into the bottom of the cove from the edge of the board. Clean up with planes and/or scrapers
Not sure what you mean by cutting it on "3 sides". If you are cutting a return on the ends of the board, I'd bandsaw the profile.
Regards,
Ray Pine
You didn't put any dimensions on the drawings, Eric. There are raised panel cutters that cut such a profile. You can make it deeper in both directions by making multiple passes to suit what you want. Just as you do with a raised panel door, start the first cut on the end grain, then turn the panel counter clockwise. Do the long grain, then the other end and finish on the other long side. The bit will blow out as you exit the end grain but the next long grain cut will clean it up. Sharp bits help with end grain, you can also use a skimming cut as your last pass. If you only do three sides, use a backer push block to eliminate blow out on the end. A flute in the center of a board can be done with a cove or corebox bit in a router table. These bits can also be used to round out the corners of your profile after the majority of the material has been removed with straight cuts.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Somehow I plumb forgot about the angling the work to the blade method. Thanks for reminding me.
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