Hi All,
I’m about to start working on the cabriole legs for a new piece that I’m building. I’m sure there have been a thousand posts about this in the past. I’ve read all kinds of articles about making these legs but have never done it before.
Nearly all articles suggest making a template(s) to outline the shape and placing them on adjacent sides of the leg blank. When I try to envision this my mind goes blank. I guess my spatial abilities are sadly lacking…………………
Can anyone provide me with step by step instructions, with pics if possible, as to the process of making cabriole legs?
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Replies
Bob,
Have you read the Lonnie Bird article?
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011144044.pdf
This has a lot of details.
J
J
Yes, and I'm re-reading it now. I have also ordered Mr. Vandalls book per another suggestion.
Regards,.
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
Be sure to keep good notes and let us know how the legs turn out! We can all learn from your efforts.
J
Absolutely, and will take copious pics as I go along.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
could you tell me how to find the lonnie bird article so I can start the learning curve.
Here's the link: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011144044.pdf
I put in this link and still can't find it any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.
alan,
Strange.........
I just clicked on it and got there, however I got a message about saving it or opening it from the location.
PC or MAC, not that it shoud matter.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 6/19/2007 8:51 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
I think I found it in a back issue from 2000 #144 shaping cabriole legs by Lonnie Bird.
Making Classic Carved Furniture: The Queen Anne Stoolby Ron Clarkson and Tom Heller
This is a wonderful step by step instruction of roughing out, shaping and carving a queen anne stool. This book is very much for the beginner. It walks you through the entire process with 5-6 pictures per page throughout the scores of pages.
Thanks Matt,
I'll check it out.
Just got a new notebook and am getting it hooked up to the wireless network. Then I can have it in the woodshop to research woodworking and have pics at the ready while in the shop.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I think I found the article in 2000 isue #144.
It is easier to make a cabriole leg than to describe it. I second the Bird article. All you really need to do is make a template of the profile you want. Lay it on a block of wood and cut it out on a bandsaw. Then rotate the leg one side, redraw the template (glue or tape on the cutoffs from the previous cut if necessary) and cut again. That should leave you with a rough cabriole leg with just some rasping or spokeshaving left to do.
Thanks Houston,
I'm sure it's easy if you've done it before but I never have. I have prepared some 3" square practice stock of pine to practice first.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Glen Huey has an inexpensive ($7.95) "Techniques" DVD on Cabriole Legs that makes everything fall into place...some of the best money I ever spent because it takes away the mystery--and the stress. Like having a teacher at my elbow. <http://woodworkersedge.com/store.htm>
Hope this helps.
Bob
Bob,
I'll check that out. I've seen some others that have lessend the anxiety somewhat.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Get Norman Vandal's book on Queen Ann Furniture, it has a great section on all types of cabriole legs, both turned and sawn.
Bob,
When you trace the template on the leg blank, make sure you align it knee-to-knee.
Jim
Jim,
Actually, knee to knee, or heel to heel, I suppose it doesn't matter--as long as they're not laid out knee to heel! I was taught heel to heel, drawing on the two inside corners of the leg-- intuitively, for me, layout for the mortises "looks right" in this configuration.
Ray
Ray,
I agree, it doesn't matter as long as they match up. I was making a set of cabriole legs once and got sloppy and didn't flip the template on one of the blanks before I band sawed it. I remember that every time I think about cabriole legs.
Jim
According to Lonnie Birds article Shaping Cabriole Legs in FWW, aligning the foot with the top of the leg seems pretty straightforward if the foots diameter matches size of the leg blank. However when the foot is slightly smaller, which is typical, the center of the foot dictates the center of the top of the leg.
To quote the article, To find the center, lay out a square on each end of the leg that corresponds to the foot diameter, then mark diagonal lines within the square.
No hold on here or am I having another DUH moment! How in the rath of Queen Anne does one do this? One thought comes to mind but seems to border on the insane. To wit the following:
Plumb the blank vertically (redundant?) in a vise, then using a level transfer the foot square marks from the foot to the top of the blank!
In a quandry,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
I don't have Lonnie's article in front of me, so am guessing he's talking about laying out centers for turning the foot? If so, I believe he's saying that, if the toe is say, 1/4" less in diameter than the square, and the toe is "tucked under" towards the ankle, then you want to find the center of the square enclosed by the tucked under toe, and lay out a square, oriented similarly, at the top of the leg, so that its center is in line with that of the toe.
In other words, draw the smaller square describing where the toe will be, inside the larger square (the end of the leg blank) held to the back corner, say. Then do the same thing at the top of the leg, holding the smaller square to the same corner as you did before.
Ray
Ray,
The article says,
"Before mounting the leg in the lathe, you'll have to locate the centers precisely on the ends of the stock. If the foot is the same size as the leg blank, you can simply mark diagonal lines on each end. However, the foot diameter typically is slightly smaller than the knee, and the foot is positioned so that it lies toward the front of the leg, which gives the leg a more pronounced curve. To find the center, lay out a square on each end of the leg that corresponds to the foot diameter, then mark diagonal lines within the square."
Whew, thank God for Mavis Bacon!
From the bold/italic above I'm assuming that the front of the leg would be the front edge at the knee?
And due to the fact that I don't have a lathe I will have to shape the foot which will be an exercise I'm sure.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
Yeah that's what he says. Just me, I like a small foot to be "tucked under"--I think that a small foot projecting out from under a cabriole leg, looks like a snake with a stomache ache. Really swoopy ankles look weak, whether they truly are or not. Of course it depends on what you are referencing, some of the old work has very pronounced curves, and if that is what you are trying to reproduce...
Working the toes by hand gives you the opportunity to do some imaginative things, in Philadelphia they were partial to trifid feet, I've seen kind of a faceted stockinged foot also. In NY they used a kind of pointed toe, sort of a slipper foot.
When you make a drawing of your leg pattern, projecting the lines of the leg (so that it is rotated) at 45*, shows the curves on the diagonal, and will give you a more accurate idea what the leg itself will look like when viewed at an angle. The curve is more exaggerated on the real leg, than the pattern leads you th think.
Have fun,
Ray
Ray,
Thanks for your help. It's raining cows and horses up here so I should have the weekend to practice. Drew a pattern last night and will make the wood pattern after work today, trace onto a practice blank tonight and start, hopefully.
Got the draw knives and s-shaves fettled and ready to go last nite and the night before. Who knows, maybe we'll lose electricity and it'll be working by candlelight..............
Don't think I'll try the clawed balls yet!
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 6/22/2007 3:03 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
Bob,
Dont give up on the ball & claw so soon.
These are pictures of my very first ball & claw in basswood during the class I took with Joe Trippi, the finished b&c is by Phil Lowe.
Take your time and enjoy the carving.
You CAN do it!
Mike
Hey Mike,
I can't give up something I never started. I'm an old fart that takes a lot more time than you young fellas, but there's no less enthisiasm.
Gotta get the pads under control, try out the slipper and then tackle the clawed balls. Seems like a good progression to me. Hey I just started on this cabriole journey and thanks to you and a host others in this discussion, I've got a pictorial to guide me.
Thanks for the inspiration. Oh, and yes I will post pics of the progress so as to share with everyone. Did some practice tonight on some pine blanks that I made. We'll talk about that later!
And with folks like you in here, the word discourage is not in my vocabulary!
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 6/22/2007 9:23 pm ET by KiddervilleAcres
BobI wish you could find some designation other than "clawed balls". I wince every time I read it.Frosty
Jfrost,
That reminded me of "A book never written" from my grade school days: Tiger in the Tall Grass, by Claude Balce
Cheers,
Ray
Ray,
Saw this and couldn't resist.
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/at.asp?webtag=fw-knots&guid=C25D9534-DB7A-4919-A2C3-F5C2FACC66A9&frames=no
Finally I think I have a template that will work. Will give it a go tonight if I have time. Had a few setbacks; had to work on the summer camp. Seems Mother Nature is trying to collect boat docks! NOT!
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 6/28/2007 7:48 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
Bob,
That's cute! I have a friend, a scout leader, who lost one leg from the knee down. For a long time he was talking about having me make him a wooden "pegleg" to replace his modern prosthetic, to wear in the early american living area he conducts at camp. Hasn't happened yet, but I'll keep the ball and claw idea in mind for him. Thanks for the chuckle,
Ray
Ray,
I was going down memory lane again last night up at camp, keeping an eye on Mother N. (thunder & lightning show and all). I think I p&*sed her off by hanging onto the dock!
Found the cartoon in the back of #68. Got quite a bunch of duplicate FWWs that I keep up there for those rainy days/nights.
Anyway, I've milled some solid 4"x4" fir that used to be a beam, no longer needed, milled down to 3"x3"x32" for the whole leg. Hope to work on it tonight, setting out the template on adjacent sides and roughing out on the bandsaw.
Updates tomorrow.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Move over Phillip! Mike, you win, hands down!Frosty
Jfrostjr,
Thank you very much, but, mine is the white unfinished one.
I am very proud of it, but it is not at Phil Lowe's level yet, in the ballpark yes, but not there yet.
Thanks again,
Mike
Mike,
I don't have any carving chisels so carving a B&C will have to wait, at least for now. I do hope some are in the future. I've been working diligently on the honey do list and have a birthday coming up almost exactly 2 months from today.
Maybe......................
Got any recommendations? Should I get a set or buy them individually?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
Start with 12/4 stock, square it, mortise it where needed (wta064)
Layout shape (note that grain should run from center of furniture out - I goofed!)(wta053), and bandsaw (leave a piece sticking out at the post block and the middle of the leg to support the second cut, remove last) and assemble dry for enjoyment (wta066)
Spokeshave legs smooth (wta027)
Layout lines for rounding and then rasp to lines (wta054)
Carve foot
Assemble and cut and fit knee blocks (wta083)
Finished example with trifid feet. (4230175)
Questions?
Mike
Sorry about the one large file, tried to reduce it in irfanview but it didnt take.
Mike,I already knew how to do cabriolet legs but I want to compliment you on your fine post. This is the kind of post that makes visiting this forum worth while.I also like the cherry furniture in the photo with the parquet floor. Did you make the frames for the upholstered chairs and did you upholster them your self?Thanks,pins
Pins,
Alas no, the upholstered chairs are from La-z-Boy furniture, and yes, they are recliners!
I have considered making framed and upholstered chairs, but they are way down on my list.
Mike
mike,
Well done!
In addition to your good pictures and description, I'll add the following:
In sawing out, I like to leave the offcuts hanging by a short piece of uncut wood. Usually I saw in to the ankle from the toe, and withdraw the leg from the blade, then saw to the ankle from the knee, leaving about 1/4" of uncut wood where the grain is straight. On the backside of the leg, I saw in at the top of the leg, withdraw, and come up from the ankle toward the top, again leaving a tad uncut. Others will prefer to tape or otherwise re-attach the offcuts, I offer this as an alternative to leaving the bandsaw, juggling the offcuts, and returning to finish sawing the leg.
Make a leg vise from two pieces of two-by-four oak or maple about 16" long. Butt them edge to edge with a butt hinge screwed onto their ends, and cut a socket near the unhinged ends to clasp the square of the leg. Align the cut out as a diamond, half the diamond on each half of the vise, so that a clamp across the top of the vise closes the two jaws around the square of the leg, gripping it tightly. Clamp the whole affair upright in your bench vise, so the leg is sticking out toward you. Now you can get at all sides of the leg without worrying about getting your drawknifwe against the pipeclamp. Brace the end of the foot against your chest if it wobbles too much for you.
I like to fair the curves of the leg with a spokeshave before beginning to knock off the corners, which I prefer to do with drawknife followed by spokeshave, then scraper. I dislike smoothing out raspmarks, so avoid rasp and file if at all possible. Sometimes, though, if the wood is highly figured, or rowed grain, you just have to rasp.
Regards,
Ray
Ray,
As usual you have done it again. Thanks for the info., especially about the vise fixture. Now if I can visualize it........ I was trying to fgure out how to do the shaping. Just got a drawknife and spokeshaves tuned. Came out quite good, I think.
Now with the Queenes leg in the vise I hope not to get distracted!
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
"Now with the Queenes leg in the vise I hope not to get distracted"
Years ago, at Va Craftsmen, a highboy got returned to the shop. The owner discovered the pine drawer sides had a little powderpost beetle infestation. The piece was returned over one weekend, and so on monday morning, a group of the workers was gathered around the piece speculating on why it had appeared. One of the guys, who'd been called in on Saturday to unload the thing, explained it thus": "Aww, Queen Anne's got bugs in 'er drawers."
Cheers,
Ray
Bob
Holding the Queen's leg has long been the subject of discussion - Honi soit qui maly pense
Dave
Dave,
Honi soit qui maly pense: Now that conjures much thinking.
Just last night I was shaving/smoothing one leg, appropriately with a spokeshave and I could hear voices, with a strong British accent saying, "It's too rough, it's too rough, treat me with honor".
Scared the be jesus outa me! It's time to quit! And I'd not had injested any bubbly either!
Now, after reading your post, I'm thinking that before I get 'er shaved and smoothed I might consider carving a garter on 'em? Then again, I've never done linen folds before.
What's an old man to do.............. AH HAH, buy more tools of course!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
I didn't check all the posts to see if somebody else said this, but it occurred to me to mention that it helpful for me to stand up all four legs so I can judge that they are all carved/shaped/shaved to the same profile.John
WOW!
The pics cleared up a whole bunch! Wasn't sure how best to align the layout lines, especially where. The pic of the outlines really helped.
Thank you very much.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Here ya go Mike,
And for us dial-up impaired as well.
Very nice furniture. Maybe I'll get that good at these scuttle legs as Lataxe calls them!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Thanks for posting the pictures!
Bob
I'm sure you will find your venture into cabriole legs highly enjoyable. It will also 'free you' to try all sorts of compound curved legs of other sorts.
Two thoughts in addition to Vandal's book:
I position my legs in the lathe for carving; the indexing feature makes it easy to rotate them, while holding them ridgidly - and the padfoot style will need to be turned at any rate.
You will love yourself if you purchase a pair of good spokeshaves from L-N - a new project ALWAYS calls for the purchase of at least one new tool. Best wishes,
Frosty
Bob,
I bought them individually as needed, then started buying to fill in holes (warning! carving tools are as addictive as planes! - but cheaper, so you buy more!)
For the Ball and Claw class, the tool list was small:
#5-20, #7-10, #8-10, #25-13 (back bent), #3-12
five gouges are all you need for the ball and claw. really!
I bought Pfeil brand, and the numbers above refer to them - be aware that sweeps are not quite the same brand to brand. The best price was through the net from a supplier in Sarnia, Ontario, Canada. Something like "feathered friends", primarily supplied duck carvers, but very nice to deal with.
When you are ready to give them a try, let me know, and I will help all I can.
Mike
Hi Folks,
I made a template and marked adjacent sides of a leg blank that I made tonight. Then traced onto the blank and made a rough leg. I will post some pics tomorrow.
Sorry but I'm a slug dial-up at home.
By the way, I'm keeping track of all this and will post a summary at the end so all can enjoy. Many thanks to all!
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Thanks Mike,
I hope you don't mind but I filed the pics of your B&C foot for future reference. Some day soon I'd like to take a crack at carving, to add to my skills.
Getting myself set up for retirement so I can spend my normal working day in the woodshop.
Thanks for your help.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Morning Everyone,
Well here's a look at my first cabriole leg. It's the rough blank and there's much shaping to do but I wanted to give you folks a look. Please critique for me, but please don't laugh too hard.
Ray, the dogs are resting comfortably!Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
That looks great. Shaping it by hand is the fun part.
Jim
Bob,
Looks good!
Time to start laying out and rasping it round.
Of course you have already put in your mortices in the unseen side, yes?
If not, then you will have to learn to put them in by hand - grinnn!
Seriously, the only thing I would add is to do all four or both (whichever applies) together. It is the best way to keep them similar.
Keep us posted,
Mike
Update on My Legs:
Laying Out the Template: First I sized the template (1/8" luan) to the same size as the billet. Then as Lonnie states in his Shaping Cabriole Legs article, I marked out where the different sections are on the template starting with the foot and worked my way up the leg.
I used these later on in Marked Billet - Both Sides below. The curved section and knee I eyeballed and drew freehand. If you visualize Lonnies' right one it's not that hard to do. Yes, an eraser comes in handy. Avoid too much curvature.
Marking The Billet: Placed the template on side one of the billet and simply traced it onto the stock. Also extended the section markings from Laying Out the Template No brainer.
Marked Billet - Both Sides: Per Mr. Pine I matched up the knee to the first one and traced the adjacent side using the extended section markings made this step relatively easy, or at least easier for me. Once you have both sides marked, it's off to the bandsaw!
The Pressure is On: Now it's cutting to the lines on the bandsaw. I used a ¼" X 4 TPI hook tooth blade for cutting the profile(s). I first made relief cuts where appropriate so I wouldn't have to back out the blade.
Kept the cutoffs and taped them back on for cutting Side Two.
Hope this is helpful for some of you. The point I'd like to make is that after having done this one, I'm not as intimidated by these scuttle legs anymore. The next obstacle will be to make duplicates so all four are the same. Anyone have any suggestions for this?
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
See? I told you it would be easy.Go have a piece of that strawberry-rhubarb pie.Frosty
Bob,
making all four look the same is the job of the template.
Now that you have given it a try, I can let you in on the BIG SECRET to cabriole legs.
As long as the curves are fair (without bumps or flats) the legs will look good.
Since the legs are not next to each other, they only need to be close in dimension, that is what the template does.
The human eye and mind KNOW what straight is, what level is, and what a ninety degree angle is. Small variations will "bother" the mind until it discovers what is awry.
Curves, especially "s" curves, do not bother the brain unless they are not fair (bumpy or flatted).
So, really, cabriole legs are much easier than straight legs!
Again, I will suggest that doing all the legs at once, going from leg to leg as you go through the steps, will keep them similar enough that no one will notice the minor differences.
Think artist, not craftsman. The legs do not need to meet any specific tolerance or dimension between the bottom and the mortices. They only need to look good. And only you, and your recipient of the piece, need to be satisfied.
Good Job!
Mike
Hi Everyone,
First off I 'd like to thank ALL for the help and inspiration. I am going to summarize all the posts into a document and will post for everyones review. I then hope to make it available for everyone as a reference. Not sure how I can do this but will try.
Thanks again,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Are there any rules with regard to the final shape, i.e. do the legs need to be round? Any best practices as to shaping?
I've seen all kinds of pictures and it appears that this part is pretty much up to the woodworker with some basics with regard to different areas of the leg.
Am I on the right track with this thinking?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
It's pretty much up to you, unless you are trying to recapture the style of a particular piece or region. I've seen everything from nearly square (Newport) to nearly all round (Connecticut) , to round in the back and sides with a sharp arris up the front (Massachusetts) on antiques. Take a look at some old work, or look in some books, Nutting's Furniture Treasury is outdated as far as the text is concerned, but you can't beat it for variety and range. Also Down's American Furniture Queen Anne and Chippendale, has some good photos.
As someone said on this thread, after you work out your first set of legs, you realize they're easy. After you do your 10th or 12th set, you realize they're getting harder! In that there are many subtleties that one becomes aware of: the transition from foot to ankle can be troublesome to get to look "right" from all angles. A small change in the pattern in this area can have a huge effect on the offset of foot to leg. The diameter of the foot, and the height of the "instep" also come into play, as well. I've seen legs, the feet of which looked like a twig stuck into a cow-pie. Others that, from the front, tapered not a whit from foot to ankle, while from the side, appeared razor-thin right above the toe.
The main thing is to make all four look alike, that is take off the same amount of wood from each leg, and from the same place on each leg, nearly as you can. And remember, they just have to look alike, not be alike. A little variation won't be noticed.
Ray
Hi Folks,
I thought it would be appropriate for the pics to be taken in front of our patch of Queene Annes Lace. I sure hope the finished piece in cherry is done before the next flowers which will be next year! I'm certain it won't be done before these go to seed...........
Anyway, my first impression after looking at the pics is that it's too fat, especially in the area of the lower shin where it meets the ankle just above the foot. Also, the foot is not round but I kind of like it that way, more like a slipper shape. I tried to make it in a Newport style.
Don't hold back with your thoughts/suggestions.
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hey Bob,
Nice Leg!
One question:
was the orientation of the blank intentional to yield those circle/ovals on the front of the leg? What happens if you turn the blank 90 degrees? Seems like I remember seeing an article in FWW on how to orient the grain of the blank for different effects in the finished product. Just wondering.
Lee
Lee,
I didn't like the potential grain pattern orienting it the proper way as you suggested, so I did it backwards! Believe that and I'll sell you some prime swampland in Maine.
Good catch, Lee.
The blank I used did have the right orientation, i.e. diagonally across the blank, but I brain cramped and ended up cutting it backwards! The correct orientation is to provide more strength to the leg as I understand. I guess that's another reason to do a prototype first.
It won't happen again I asure you. I do like the pattern it created though, but the leg is definitely weaker because of the grain orientation being backwards. Another problem is that the grain orientation created a switch right in the middle of the knee which made shaping a challenge. Had to switch direction of the tools in this area.
I don't have any carving or turning chisels and couldn't get the spokeshave to work so had to use my pairing chisels, combination rough/medium rasp and sandpaper.
Rough translation - a LOT of fun!
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 7/6/2007 6:40 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
Hi Bob,
As far as orienting the grain, I don't believe that there is any great variation in strength, however the leg is laid out. It is more important, in my view, to align the growth rings so that they are symmetrical from leg to leg, and a knot, or bit of sapwood on one leg blank may dictate that they all be turned one way or another. It is a curious thing, that the weakest area of a QA leg is the place where it is the thickest- right at the knee. The leg is typically morised away in both directions there, and has some pretty short grain from the bottom of the mortises to the underside of the knee. That is where legs usually break, from the strain of being dragged across an irregular or carpeted floor. Other than toes being chipped or broken, you seldom see legs broken from knee to ankle.
Regarding your prototype, I'll offer some suggestions for you to consider. I'd look at adding a little meat to the inside of the center/upper part of the pattern. You mentioned that you thought the ankle was a little fat, I see the leg above the ankle area as being a trifle lean, about 1/3 - 1/2 way down, and would like to straighten and fair that curve a bit there.
If you sweep the two arrises back, on the sides of the foot, by removing more wood along the top of the foot, I believe it gives this area a more graceful appearance, when viewed from the side especially. It makes the transition from ankle to foot, a little snappier, as when you do this, the ankle becomes more round, and the foot has more definition. Of course this is a matter of personal taste, and yours may be different here than mine. Also the center of your "instep" seems a bit high for my taste, although some legs have a definate ridge in this area, so that is again, a matter of personal preference.
All in all, I wish my first effort at a cabriole leg looked as good.
Ray
Bob,
Well Done!
I do not think its too fat, but I would like to see a head on or side view shot (straight down the axis of the band saw blade as it were) insted of the 3/4 view.
I suspect that, to my mind, the curve of the leg is too straight. I am aware that some of the directions published suggest a straight line from inside of knee to ankle, but those legs seem "stiff" to me. Not a lot of curve, but some makes it look like its gracefully supporting the weight.
Again, an excellent leg!
Mike
Mike,
Like these?
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob,
Yes, just like those pics.
To my eye, ideally, the leg should be an ess curve. Looking at pic one, you can clearly see a straight line from the knee down.
A slight curve, 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch is all, some of that coming forward and back of that straight line, with the back line to match in your template would really make that leg come alive.
Dont use such a long block of wood, and dont worry about the foot, just bandsaw the leg out using your current template and using one with more curve and compare.
I think you might just like the slightly, slightly curvier one better.
Mike
Oh yes, you could also try both grain orientations as well - grin!
17 inches tall is sufficient to see the leg, foot and knee. mh
Top 'o the morning Mike,
The long post block is for the corners on the piece I'm building. Sort of like Randall O'Donnells base piece for his highboy as in FWW #117, at least in concept.
See http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=34010.14
I have since modified the original such that the legs are slightly longer and the case part will be a bit taller from ~21" to the present 32 5/16".
I did remove some wood on the top of the foot as suggested by Ray and it has made a significant difference. When I first looked at it last night I got the impression that the leg was standing on its tip toes. Now it looks more like it is setting on the whole foot, much better.
I will take another look at adding more curve to the back side with my photo editing software. As I'm going along I import new pics into it and play with the shape in the software. Saves a lot of time and wood!
Many thanks for all you folks help.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob, I think we see the same thing -The portion of the leg between the knee and ankel appears too straight. I would prefer more of a sweep to a more sleder ankle. It would then appear more graceful IMHO.Good going.Frosty
Bob
You should be proud of this leg. I agree with Ray's suggestions for fine tuning it, but you did a good job here. Take your time with the other legs. In my opinion, it's more important to the look of the piece that the legs look alike than for them to have a particular profile.
Jim
Bob,Where were these pics taken that you have Queen Anne's Lace in full bloom? In SE Michigan our QAL is a good motn from bloom.Frosty
Frosty,
See http://forums.taunton.com/fw-knots/messages?msg=36486.62 above. The damn stuff spreads all overthe place once it gets started. Our patches of the stuff has been here for +50 years.
We bought our lil ol farmhouse (Kidderville Acres) back in '95 and have been working on it ever since. Guess that comes with the territory and have no regrets.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Hi; I made these legs two different times with no problems. You make a drawing template for each of the two sides, front and side and draw them on the square blank. Don't go over board with the bends, use very little. Then cut out one side on the band saw. Now put the parts back together with tape and cut the other profile. Then you start with the file, rasp, and spoke shaves to round everthing out. Try it on a scrape of 2x4 glued up to be a 4x4 so you build your confidence. Have fun. Roger.
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