Replies

1. 
   notDusty | Dec 08, 2004 03:36am | #1

                     woodworker ,

            One way is,  you could use a doweling jig , and drill a series of holes with a 3/8" drill bit , then chop out the rest with sharp chisel .

                               good        luck           dusty

2. 
   jackplane | Dec 08, 2004 06:07pm | #2

   To my thinking, cutting a mortice into endgrain is not good practice, as pressure on the sides of the mortice could split the grain.

   But if you must join in this method, a router, preferably a plunge router with a centering jig(two pins that stop on the outside) can make quick work of this.

3. 
   Ardito | Dec 08, 2004 06:18pm | #3

   I'm not sure why you need a mortise on the end grain.  Can you explain further?  This is not going to be a easy mortise to make....any other way around this?

   Dark Magneto

    

1. 
   VomSorb | Dec 08, 2004 08:56pm | #6

   I believe the fellow must be planning to use floating tenon joinery.

   I'd suggest that he look into the Beadlock system if he's looking for a low-cost solution.

    

4. 
   douglas2cats | Dec 08, 2004 06:21pm | #4

   Dusty's suggestion of a doweling jig should work well, but not if you're set on using a Forstner (for flat bottom holes). You're probably going to need something like one of these drill guides. For extra stability and to make sure the bit goes in straight, I'd bolt it to a plywood scrap and add some blocks spaced to slip onto the end of your stock.

   --------------------------------------------------------------

   Added this: I was originally thinking about shank length when I posted this. I suppose if you could find a 3/8 Forstner with a long enough shank, you could use it with a doweling jig too. But I was picturing my 3/8 Forstner and thinking that by the time you allowed for a reasonable amount of bit in the drill chuck plus roughly 1" for the thickness of the turret gizmo on the doweling jig, you might not be able to get a 2" deep hole?

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/8/2004 10:42 am ET by douglas2cats

   
5. 
   AlanWS | Dec 08, 2004 08:19pm | #5

   You might as well use a dowel jig and dowels. If both pieces you are joining are endgrain, a multiple dowel joint will be as strong as a rectangular mortise and tenon because of all side grain contact except at the ends, and a heck of a lot easier to do. If this is for a loose tenon to connect to a sidegrain mortise, use the Frid jig and get a plunge bit. You will need to make a hole in the bottom of the jig to allow mortising the end of a workpiece, but it works fine.

   Frid jig: http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=29

6. 
   CajunDan | Dec 08, 2004 09:23pm | #7

   Woodworker,

   This sounds a little like a bedrail. If it is, you might look into some of the other ways to attach bed rails.

   If you worry about even cutting the mortise without splitting, I doubt it will have much strength.

   Bon Chance,

   Dan

1. 
   Biscardi | Dec 08, 2004 09:59pm | #8

   Would a scarfed half-lap joint work? It wouldn't look bad and would be stronger.

2. 
   flairwoodworks | Dec 09, 2004 02:54am | #9

   Nice work, Sherlock.  I don't think that strength will be too much of an issue because I'm also using a pair of knock-down bolts to pull the joint together (it won't be glued to both parts for transport purposes).  As for the half lap suggestion which someone else suggested, I don't see how it could work because my posts are two inches whereas my rails are only one.  Thanks for the help; I've decided on a doweling jig and a chisel."What I love about being a woodworker is that it allows me to see all the flaws in furniture."  the woodworker

7. 
   exhibitor | Dec 09, 2004 06:50pm | #10

   If this is indeed a bedrail,  the rail should be tenoned into the post.  Maybe I am misunderstanding your post, but you appear to be doing it backwards.  Joint will have zip strength as you describe.  Usually you cut a little stub tenon into the rail (inch or so) that slides into the mortise in the leg.  Then bed bolt is run through.  Jimmy.

1. 
   DougF | Dec 10, 2004 01:52am | #11

   Not prolong this discussion but Jeff Millers's book on beds discusses using doweled side boards in conjunction with rail/head bard bolts.  I personally think the tenon is a superior joint but the dowels are viewed as an acceptable alternative.

   I cut my tenons on the RAS and get about as perfect results as you can ask for.

   Doug