Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 08, 2005 11:39pm | #1

   jIM, FIRST USE A COVE BOX ROUTER BIT. USE A ROUTER WITH TWO EDGE GUIDES to straddle the edges of the pilaster

   PRACTICE ON SCRAP MATERIAL OF THE SAME WIDTH AND THICKNESS AS THE NEW WORKPEICE. ASSUMING THE PILASTER WILL HAVE FIVE GROOVES, SET THE GUIDES TO CENTER THE FIRST COVE AT THE EXACT CENTERLINE(# 3) ADD STOP BLOCKS AT OR NEAR THE TOP AND BOTTOM ( SQUARLY ACROSS THE BOARD )

   Classic pilasters start closer to the top , but, end less close to its bottom (sometimes with a 'plinth block' which is of thicker material)

   Carefolly note the measurements used to adjust the two edge guides to rout two end coves and on the practice piece rout #1 & #5 grooves.

   That leaves space for the grooves # 2 & # 4 adjust as above and rout these last two

   When the practice piece is to your satisfaction, make two cardboard 'ramps' by spacing and gluing several plies of paperboard 'step fashioned' to create the 'rise' you likeT

   turn these over and tack in place with carpet tape or small brads
   don't forget to have the widest ply on top of ramp so as not to create any bumps . Sorry about the Caps, (stup[id caps lock was bumped) Good luck, Steinmetz

   Edited 12/8/2005 3:47 pm ET by Steinmetz

   
   

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   Edited 12/9/2005 2:26 pm ET by Steinmetz

1. 
   highfigh | Dec 09, 2005 12:07am | #2

   Just for clarity, it's a plinth, not a plintz. Makes it easier to look up additional information. Also, if the stacked hardboard steps show up too much in the final test cuts, they can be filled in with Bondo, then sanded smooth. Another way to get the same effect would be to use 3/4" MDF and attach it to a rail below, which has screws in it, used to draw the MDF toward the rail in a gentle arc. Starting in the middle, draw the MDF back till it's at the maximum depth, then work back to the ends till the arc is defined. Once everything is set, screw a solid piece of wood over the screws so they can't be pushed backward through the rail. Still another way would be to arch the face board of the pilaster so the ends are pulled away from the face of the guide. You can set the arch with blocks or shims, driven in till it's where you want it. You should be able to do it this way pretty quickly with clamps. Make the guide wider than the pilaster and attach spacers on the back so the guide can be moved to one side or the other, in the increments you want. So there's no mistake in what I'm talking about, the guide face would rest on vertical sides with blocking between them.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   jim11 | Dec 09, 2005 05:41pm | #5

   Steinmetz, highgh,

   Thanks for your help!  I have one edge guide, so will look into another!  The help is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!

    

   BOBABEUI, SteveSchoene,

   I will also look into a table saw molding head as well, as I have a General 10" Table saw and Paralok fence on it that is set up and ready to go, as I have a house full of trim to run, it may be worth the investment!

   As far as spacing goes, yes design is crucial.  I will check out what you say about keeping the spacing less than the width of the flutes.  I had not designed the width of the fluted columns yet. I have a lot of 5 inch 4/4 oak I could use, but have to see what the flutes would look like in that width.  I was thinking 5 flutes per board. 

   I also wanted to do cabinet heads above the doors and windows and am trying to learn what my options are there as well as design the pediment (cabinet head) to look right with the casing with height as well as thickness.  I wanted to do something other than an applied bead at the bottom too.  I was thinking 6/4 material might look nice with the bead being 5/4 so it stepped out from the 3/4 casing for effective appearance/ dramatic affect.  Any thoughts on all this guys?  You know so much more than I do so all comments welcome!  Designing cabinet heads and trim is not a suject well covered in the literature as most people use stock everything anymore.  I do have an 8" jointer and 15" planer to finish rough stock and have a lot of 8/4 rift/quartersawn red oak I intended to use for the cabinet heads.

   Great advice by all and much appreciated!

   Jim

    

    

1. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 09, 2005 10:02pm | #6

   jim, Another trick occurred to me. If you don't have a router equipped with two edge guides, you can sand down a short length of round dowel to form a 'half round' to fit in groove #1Attach the half round to the router's base and using it as an indexing shoe, (riding in finished cove) duplicate all the subsequent grooves (Much like a key machine)
   Steinmetz.

2. 
   Steinmetz | Dec 10, 2005 02:45am | #7

   Reqarding fluted columns/ pilasters, try this link I've attached

   
1. 
   jim11 | Dec 12, 2005 07:42am | #8

   Thanks Guys, all great ideas!  I will work on it and get back with you all!  Happy Holidays!

   Jim

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Dec 09, 2005 06:16am | #3

   You will get that tapered out look if you use a table saw molding head instead of a router.  Did that on all the oak trim in an earlier house, using a Craftsman moulding head.  There are more sophisticated molding head, but the Craftsman was OK for the limited application. 

3. 
   BOBABEUI | Dec 09, 2005 03:48pm | #4

   Jim,

   Fluted pilasters also look much better if the distance between the individual flutes is less than the width of the flute itself. As mentioned before, you will need to practice the layout of some test pieces to find an appealing look.

    

   Best of luck