Replies

1. 
   GlennS | Nov 05, 1999 04:49pm | #1

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   Gary, on a test piece, first stain the piece, after the stain is 100% dry apply one coat of tung oil, let sit overnight, apply a second of tung oil using a piece of 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper to apply it, let dry 2-3 days, top coat (as many coats as you desire) with poly. I use the 50-50 mix of poly and spirits. I just did a table like this and it looks great. If you need more info e-mail me.

1. 
   Kevin_A_Shaw | Dec 16, 1999 06:19am | #2

   *I'm no expert, but haven't found a stain that looks good on QS WO. All the stains I tried settle in the pores of the oak and look really ugly. I ultimately settled on Watco, because of the deep rich brown color it imparts, but truth be told the stripes are more subtle than I would like. Perhaps there is a dye that could be used. Any thoughts from anyone? Kevin A. Shaw Ithaca, NY.

1. 
   Will_Marshall | Jan 19, 2000 11:49am | #3

   *I'm facing this same problem on an oak bookcase I'm planning that I need to match some older oak pieces. The only technique I've heard of that sounds right comes from an article from Fine Woodworking (Sept. '86). In it, David E. Shaw briefly outlines a grain filling technique which highlights the grain. He starts with stained or natural wood. He takes a bit of plaster of paris and aniline dye (recommended) or other water-based colorant and mixes it with water and a little lime powder to inhibit drying. He works the mixture quickly into the grain with his fingers and lets it dry. Then he sands lighty with 360 grit or finer paper to remove the excess until the plaster in the pores is level with the surface of the wood. On the previous page, there is a picture of him doing this technique where the oak looks just like the old antique stuff with contrasting black grain. The byline of the picture reads, "To emphasize the grain of this oak . . . Shaw works a mixture of plaster of paris, purple Japan color and water into the wood pores. After sanding off the excess, he finishes the wood with white shellac to seal in the color highlights." Also I've read that in the old days some guys used a final coat of black wax to accent the grain. Hope this is helpful.

1. 
   Alex_Higgins | Mar 05, 2000 08:48pm | #4

   *I have the same problem. Woodworker's Supply has an oil-soluable "fumed oak" aniline dye that they claim can be added to danish oil. I wonder if this will darken the Watco enough to give a good contrast to ray figure without leaving any solid pigment in the open pores. Has anyone tried this?

1. 
   Jeff_Jewitt | Mar 06, 2000 03:50am | #5

   *The step that you're leaving out is---- after sealing the dye, wipe a dark pigmented stain on it. The sealer allows the stain to only color the pores and not the glassy ray fleck. This sets up a contrast which makes the flake stand out.To see what I'm talking about go herehttp://www.homesteadfinishingprod.com/mission_oak.htmJeff Jewitt