Replies

1. 
   flairwoodworks | Jun 24, 2009 08:09am | #1

   If I understand you correctly, you want to make a molding similar to what is on top of this cabinet http://www.ifurn.com/pics/8/fairmont-designs/costa-mesa-arco-china-cabinet.FD475-0.1.800.jpg

   I think that I would find some straight-grained stock and rout your profile on two lengths, then rip them into strips before laminating them around a curved form. You need two lengths of the same molding to make up for the material that is removed by the saw kerf.

   Chris @ www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com
   and now www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   seakayaker | Jun 24, 2009 09:45pm | #6

   Thanks for the help and ideas, from all of the input that I have received I think that I have a plan on how to proceed.

   Ken

2. 
   RMillard | Jun 24, 2009 11:52am | #2

   I would cut the inside arc and use a router with a single point fence to form a series of stepped rabbets as close to the finished profile as possible and then refine the profile with various gouges and scrapers. Then you can cut teh outside arc. This is the same way I make the arch molding on a clock hood (if I don't just carve them  totally by hand), and very similar to how gooseneck moldings are made.

   Rob Millard
   http://www.americanfederalperiod.com

    

1. 
   seakayaker | Jun 24, 2009 09:36pm | #5

   Thank's for your suggestions, I think that I can do this.  Nice web sit.

    

   Ken

3. 
   roland_johnson | Jun 24, 2009 06:57pm | #3

   My solution is similar to what Chris suggests. Several years ago I made a large crown molding for an eyebrow window. I started with a full scale pattern of the end profile of the molding. Divide the profile vertically into 1/4in. segments. Measure the height of each profile piece, use a sliding t-bevel to find the approximate angle where the segment meets the profile and number each segment. Rip the segments from a single piece of stock,keeping them in the order they came off the saw, number them and then rip to width with the calculated angle on one edge. Laminate the segments around a form; avoid excessive glue squeeze-out on the face side of the piece.
   To finish the profile I made a scraper the exact shape of the finished molding (I used the steel from an old handsaw), mounted the scraper on a pivoting arm the length of the radius of the molding and scraped the molding to shape. If you are careful and precise with your pattern layout and glue-up there is little to scrape; mostly taking the sharp-angled edges off.
   Careful layout and attention to precise dimensions and angles is the key to success using this method. And patience...

4. 
   RickL | Jun 24, 2009 07:24pm | #4

   http://www.curvedmouldings.com/shopshots.html

   Look closely at the photos...

5. 
   cowtown | Sep 11, 2009 07:20am | #7

   way back when I had to make some mouldings for a chest, and no shaper, no router, I ground a cabinet scraper to the profile and threw in so elbow grease. It don't take long.

   Hog out the waste with your shaper or router and finish with the cabinet scraper

   Just my suggestion

    

   Eric