Replies

1. 
   MichaelPB | May 01, 2004 10:55am | #1

   Eric,

   Popular Mechanics published a lot of articles on that topic in the 30s and 40s.  Lee Valley has reprinted some of their books, you might ask if they have an index of articles so you can get them.

   I know I have a couple with info and when I find them, I will post it.

   Michael

2. 
   UncleDunc | May 01, 2004 04:57pm | #2

   Here's a thread about making dowels.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages/?msg=2521.1

   The jig mentioned in 2521.3 sounds much like one that was featured in FWW many years ago. It was pretty slick, well worth tracking down the Spielman book, if you can. I tried looking it up in the FWW article index and had no luck at all.

   Here's a thread about tapering arrows. Some of it may be relevant to making them from scratch.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages/?msg=10670.1

   A Google search for "making arrows" returns about 2300 hits.

3. 
   TXJon | May 02, 2004 12:02am | #3

   Spend a little time looking around here:

   http://www.bowsite.com/bowsite/tf/lw/threadsx2.cfm

   There are several very experienced bowyers here, and very helpful.

   edit to add:

   You can also find shafts on ebay, generally reasonably priced.  There are several choices for wood species.  I would also recommend "The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, vol. 1-3"

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/1/2004 5:04 pm ET by TXJon

4. 
   robkelly | May 02, 2004 03:46am | #4

   In the 1950"s we used Port Oxford cedar or long deal pine. The best pine was seasoned for about 75 yrs, and we'd get it from old buildings being torn down. If I recall correctly, we avoided the wood from the sunny(hot) side of the building, and looked for the stuff that had been buried in the north side, not exposed to sun or weather. Jon Arno might know if there's any still around.

1. 
   UncleDunc | May 02, 2004 07:26am | #5

   >> ... Port Oxford cedar ...

   Is that anything like Port Orford cedar?

1. 
   robkelly | May 07, 2004 02:41am | #11

   Dunc, the memory is nearly 50 yrs old, so it could be either.

2. 
   emaillard | May 04, 2004 06:53am | #6

   Thank you all for the information. I am sure this will give my friend plenty to look into.

   Eric

1. 
   VanderLaan | May 04, 2004 04:44pm | #7

   Does your friend want to make the entire arrow or just the shafts?  Given the realtively low price for good matched shafts (+/- 10 grains acrossed the dozen), it makes little sense to try and build your own shafts.  Besides, the first dozen arrows are doomed anyway.  I would suggest that you urge him to avoid the temptation to put too much effort into his first set of arrows.  Just stain, seal, fletch, put on the points and knocks and start shooting.

   I would also suggest that you send him to http://www.stickbow.com and have him check out the section on the left about making wooden arrows.  If he still has questions, he can do a search of past posts that will most likely produce an answer for him.  If he still has a question, he can post it on The Leatherwall and I would guarantee that the good guys there will help him out.  He can also find lots of information about tuning his bow too (very important to do this).

   On a side note, I have been making my own arrows for the last five years and prefer to use either Port Orford cedar (POC) or Lodge Pole Pine (aka Chundoo) for shafting.  The POC is nice, but the chundoo is heavier.  The extra weight helps silence the bow and really packs a wallop in hunting situations.  If your buddy is looking for suppliers of raw shafts, I would recommend that he get some chundoo shafting from Arrows by Kelly (Stickbow Sponsor - do a yahoo search too).  Great guy, great service and great prices.  Have him get a few judo points too.  Few ways to get proficient faster than shooting tennis balls or pop bottles in the backyard.

   Feel free to contact me if you need anything else.

   Keep Safe-

   Bill VanderLaan      

1. 
   emaillard | May 05, 2004 05:58am | #9

   Thanks for all the information Bill!

   I guess my friend wants to try making the shaft for the sake of knowing how to do it and the satisfaction of shooting his own arrows.

   Cheers,

   Eric

5. 
   KeithNewton | May 04, 2004 05:04pm | #8

   eric, You can use either a 1'2 round cutter on a router table or a shaper with a fence. Just shape one side then turn it around and shape the other. I think Spruce is the wood of choice, and western cedar might be a good second choice.

1. 
   emaillard | May 05, 2004 06:00am | #10

   Thanks rootburl,

   My friend is starting woodworking and a router is just one of the few power tools he owns. So I am sure he will try your suggestion.

   Eric

6. 
   bill_1010 | May 07, 2004 04:09pm | #12

   There is a magazine out there for traditional bowyers.   Devoted to archery using the old ways.  Traditional Archer or something.  Head to the bookstore magazine section and find the hunting/fishing mags. 

   I cant recall the name offhand, used to get it all the time, but the name evades me.   That magazine has sources for all things the traditional archer needs.  Books, staves, fletching, etc.  Id start there. 

7. 
   DWRead | May 09, 2004 08:53pm | #13

   Now you have me wondering...should arrows be stiff or flexible? The atlatl (not to be confused with the atlotl) is an older device for propelling arrows/darts/spears. It was improved when somebody figured out how to use the flexibility of the shaft to add more force.

   Janet