Replies

1. 
   Dave45 | Jun 19, 2007 04:54pm | #1

   Bob -

   This can be a real hassle when you're using dark colors and it takes a bit of experimentation to get it right - or at least close. - lol

   I've noticed that the plywood pieces want to be darker than the solid wood and I'm pretty sure it's because the veneers are so thin that the stain soaks thru very quickly.  If you've sanded the plywood very much, the veneer is even thinner and the problem is worse.

   I've also noticed that sanding to finer grits (i.e. 220 and up), seems to burnish solid wood which makes it harder for the wood to absorb the stain.

   I'm just finishing a bookcase/file cabinet in birch and using Minwax Sedona Red stain.  The cabinet sides and drawer fronts are frame and flat panel construction, the file cabinet top is banded plywood, and the bookcase back is plywood.

   It took me most of yesterday to stain everything.  I used a wood conditioner on the plywood parts, then wiped the stain off almost immediately.  I left the stain sit on the solid wood for several minutes before wiping it off.  As I worked my way thru the pieces, I went back with a stain moistened rag and touched up where necessary to blend everything in.  Everything looked pretty good last night, but I may have to "tweak" it some today before I shoot the finish.

   Basically, you have to do quite a bit of experimentation.   

2. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Jun 19, 2007 09:59pm | #2

   TK,

   I'm by far no expert but based on the 2nd post I wonder if it might be helpful to know which is darker, the p-wood or the solid wood?  It appears that there is a different process for each.

   Just a thought and would like to see the finished piece.

   Regards,

   Bob @ Kidderville Acres

    

   A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!

1. 
   tkbob | Jun 20, 2007 02:31pm | #5

   Well it really is not the wood that is different color.  Its seems when I put stain on both the plywood and the solid wood they dry a different color.   

1. 
   Dave45 | Jun 20, 2007 07:10pm | #7

   Bob -

   Here's a picture of the file drawer cabinet mentioned earlier and finished yesterday.  I'm pretty happy with this although I can see a couple of things that I wouldn't mind being able to do again.  Of course, I always feel that way as I complete a project. - lol

   One other thing you need to think about is the lighting as you look at your stain/finish work.  I've had pieces take on a very different look just by taking a few steps to one side.  This piece is intended to match a computer desk I built for them a couple of years ago and when it's in their home office won't ever see direct sunlight.

1. 
   Dave45 | Jun 20, 2007 07:11pm | #8

   Oops!  Almost forgot the picture.

   
1. 
   tkbob | Jun 20, 2007 07:43pm | #9

   Very nice work Dave45!  If I could stain my project like that I would be a very happy guy. 

   All you used was normal minwax stain with conditioner on the plywood parts right?  To get the color right you just applied stain using different amounts and leaving it on for a different amount of time for the wood and plywood.  Did you use a clear poly for the final coat?

   Thanks again!

2. 
   Dave45 | Jun 21, 2007 12:21am | #10

   Actually, on this piece, I passed on the conditioner.  I always make stain samples on scrap before I go for it.  On this piece, everything looked fine without the conditioner. 

   The ply was sanded to 220 and the solid wood to 150.  Everything was tacked off and I applied the stain with foam brushes.  I brush it on almost like paint and wipe the ply off almost immediately.  I'll let it sit on the solid wood for 4-5 minutes before wiping.  Then, I spent a lot of time "putzing" with it to get it blended.  Yesterday, I shot a couple of coats of oil-based poly with my HVLP rig.

   Another thing I've found is that it's best to make all of the panel rails and stiles from the same board.  When I've used different boards, I've sometimes had different degrees of stain absorbtion - probably because of slightly different densities in the wood.

    

3. 
   [email protected] | Jun 20, 2007 06:40am | #3

   Shellac to seal it, then use a gel stain, or other finish that keeps the colorants in the finish. 

   The big manufacturers use pigmented spray lacquers. 

1. 
   tkbob | Jun 20, 2007 02:39pm | #6

   If I shellac the plywood and then use gel stain wont the gel stain just wipe right off the shellac since it cannot penetrate past the shellac?

   What are the steps to doing this effectively?  Do I have to put the stain on then let it dry and put another coat to build the color ?

    

4. 
   Pondfish | Jun 20, 2007 02:17pm | #4

   Don't stain the plywood parts anymore--hit them with a shellac sealer now.  hit the hardwood a few more times with the same stain to darken it (be sure to give it time to soak in, and let it dry at least 8-12hours between coats).

   The problem you are having is common with plywoods, but especially so when mixing maple ply and hard maple.  As another poster mentioned, in the future sand the plywood to 220 or higher to lessen stain soaking in; sand the hardwood to 150 to lessen burnishing.

   Recommending the use of "Hide Signatures" option under "My Preferences" since 2005