Replies

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jan 24, 2013 09:23am | #1

   Sawmaker, sawmaker . . .

    . . . make us a post.  (to the tune of the Matchmaker song)

   I'm not a sawmaker, but I think it would be difficult to do what you want, Dan. I would think that the brass back would need to be removed, the plate annealed, the existing teeth ground away, the new teeth ground (presumably on a mill capable of indexing at the spacing required for the desired TPI), and then the plate re-hardened prior to reinstalling the brass back.

1. 
   gdblake | Jan 27, 2013 09:10am | #7

   The plate does not need to be annealed

   Ralph:

   Standard sawplate is soft enough to file without needed to anneal it first.  Impulse hardened teeth are another story, but it is easy to spot these because they are bluish black in color and only show up on newer saws. 

   gdblake

1. 
   RalphBarker | Jan 28, 2013 10:47am | #8

   Thanks

   Nice to know.

2. 
   BruceS | Jan 24, 2013 03:03pm | #2

   retoothing vid

   http://logancabinetshoppe.com/blog/2012/03/episode-42-re-toothing-a-hand-saw/

   This may be helpfull.

1. 
   tendonitise | Jan 26, 2013 01:42pm | #5

   this was exactly what i was needing to see, it really helps to see this simplified. Thank you very much !!. i will consider this method.

3. 
   hackmeister | Jan 25, 2013 12:12am | #3

   Saw retoothing

   Here is what to consider:  if it isn't a particularly good saw, it would be simpler to buy a new one.  If it is a good saw and worth restoring, it should not be your first retoothing project.  

   If it is a good saw, there are companies that retooth if you don't mind shipping.  I think one is called Badaxe toolworks in Wisconson.  Better to let someone else retooth and then practice sharpening.

   If are you are determined to retooth the saw yourself, find an old crosscut saw or two to practice on.

4. 
   tendonitise | Jan 26, 2013 11:41am | #4

   How to re-tooth a hand saw

   Thank you all for your advice. My skill level is sharpening chain saws by hand for many years. Setting the rakers is one thing and chisel tooth profiles. This is a little tooth and needs a jig i will make from a screw with the same pitch and Brass set screws to pinch it to the saw plate with the proper angle as the file guide. I am not in a hurry to get this done, just see it as a chalenge. This saw is about 100 yr old, i will include a picture of it. It is useless the way it is now but just a  display. I have contacted Iie-Nelson about it and the same thought as i suspected, just let it be as is. I will purchase a thin plate angled brass back that they have comming out and not yet on the web site. I will post the jig i will fabricate at a later time. as i have too many other projects and cabinets to make first. Thank you all, Dan

   
1. 
   hackmeister | Jan 26, 2013 02:40pm | #6

   Teeth

   Actually, the tooth pattern that saw does not look that bad.  The teeth are in terrible shape, but the spacing looks like it could be saved.  You could joint the high teeth down a bit, and then carefully reestablish the correct tooth profile.  It is a dovetail saw, so you would be putting a rip profile on it anyways, which would also be the easist to reshape the teeth.  If a couple teeth end up lost, no big deal; there are plenty more.  

   This will be good practice for learning to sharpen your new Lie-Nielsen in waiting.  At the same time, it would look just fine displayed the wall as is:)

5. 
   BruceS | Jan 28, 2013 05:59pm | #9

   Stop

   I would not start my first sharpening on that little beauty.

   Grab an old 6-8 tpi Ripper and do a lot of practice,  then to a 12 tpi cross-cut.  For the smaller stuff practice on a cheapy Great Neck Back saw.

6. 
   cowtown | Feb 07, 2013 02:54am | #10

   re retoothing handsaws

   Most commercial saw sharpeners continue to sharpen handsaws as a service, they freely admit it is a PITA and they dont make money at it. My service charges 12 bucks for sharpeming.  I dunnno about retoothing.

   My experience in the past is that some sharpshops use a bunch to retooth, and they are reluctant to do that to old steel. Why, because the older saws are of such an alloy that , as was related to me, even if we are succesful in punching new teeth,when we go to set them, quite often the teeth just break off due to the brittleness (hardness?) of the steel and the microfractures set up by the punching of new teeeth. In my experience they just refuse to work on really old saws.

   But nowadays, with diamond grinding wheels, they may not feel so hesitant about it.

   I'll push my sharp shop for an update!  Things change so quickly nowadays.

   Eric