Replies

1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 14, 2009 05:23pm | #1

   AL,

   Although 1/4" is mighty thick to be called veneer, you'll be safe enough gluing them to 2 3/4" thick stock.  The legs will have enough rigidity to hold the overlays flat once the glue sets.

   It's not unusual for resawn stock to move after it comes off the saw.  Moisture differential between the inner and outer surfaces and relief of stresses introduced in drying are the most likely causes.

   Ray

1. 
   AL800 | Mar 14, 2009 05:46pm | #2

   Thanks for the reply.

   Do you think it's safe to run the veneers through the planer using a support sled underneath. I wish to bring them to a thickness of 3/16" then glue them to the legs.

   I cut them at 1/4" so that I could clean them up on the planer and reduce them to 3/16" then glue them up to the legs after which I would plane the legs to 3" finished thickness.  Am I going about it right? 

   How would I remove the bow to them if I were not gluing them?  Wet them with water and bend them to the opposite bow?  Thanks

1. 
   joinerswork | Mar 14, 2009 05:58pm | #3

   AL,

   It's a little risky to run stock that thin thru the planer, even on a sled.  If the grain direction is uniform, you should be ok. But having extra material is a good idea if the grain reverses, in case one or two pieces blows up in the machine.

   But, if you can, first gluing the overlays onto the thick stock, then running the legs thru the planer to bring them to the dimension you want, will probably be safer. That is, if the veneer face you want to be against the leg is the one you surfaced before resawing.

   Ray

2. 
   mwenz | Mar 14, 2009 07:03pm | #4

   Try just stickering them and weighting the stack. See what happens over the course of 1-2 weeks. They need air on all faces, so even put stickers under the bottom one.

   They will bow either from unequal moisture content or tension. Stickering should aid in the unequal moisture. Released tension is another issue and usually cannot be resolved via stickering (at least fully). Usually the problem is a combination.

   Take care, Mike

3. 
   flairwoodworks | Mar 16, 2009 06:05am | #10

   Nice looking shop! I've had difficulty planing any stock less than 1/8" in my planer with a sled. I've been okay up to there though with well-behaved wood (Pacific yew). Your thickness sander would do a fine job though.By the way, your screen name is the LV product number for a shut-off valve.Chris @ http://www.flairwoodwork.spaces.live.com(soon to be http://www.flairwoodworks.com)

    - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

1. 
   AL800 | Mar 16, 2009 06:13am | #11

   Hi:

   Nice of you to reply.  Actually, my screen name is the serial no. of my first Laubin Oboe I purchased in 1968.  I am a professional musician who loves working with wood.  That was my old shop mill.  I had another building where I did all the bench work.  Dont have the sander anymore but wish I did.  I sold everything but the Tannewitz.  Thanks.

    

2. 
   Cincinnati | Mar 15, 2009 01:42pm | #5

   There is always some amount of Internal stress in lumber - same internal stress that can cause kick-back when ripping as the lumber closes the kerf and can close in on the blade.

   Is the veneer cupping over the 4" width, or bowing over the length? If it is cup, you can cut it a little thicker, then joint one face and sand or plane the other. But if there is much internal stress in your lumber you could be chasing a straight board for a long time.

   I would use thinner veneers and let the vacuum press or clamps pull out it flat against your substrate. Glue opposing sides at the same time. Orient your veneers so that the stresses you are adding with the veneer oppose each other. That is, if you have to pull the veneer into the leg on the lower front, orient the back side veneer so you have to pull it into the leg there too.

   Greg

   •••••••

   Exo 35:30-35

1. 
   derekcohen | Mar 15, 2009 05:59pm | #6

   I work on the assumption that all resawn wood will want to move, simply because you have opened up a fresh side that will differ in moister content to an uncut side. And if both sides are freshly cut, then the sides are likely to be presented differently to the atmosphere.

   What I do is immediately add cauls and clamp them up. Then leave them for at least a day if the wood is very dry, or at least a week if it is just "dry".

   Regards from Perth

   Derek

3. 
   KeithNewton | Mar 16, 2009 03:23am | #7

   The easy answer to your question, is to not worry about the bow.

   If you are going to glue and clamp it to the side of the solid legs. The clamps will straighten it, and the glue will not have any problem holding it there once it dries.

   I would put the jointed face in the glue line, with the sawn side out, then run over the jointer after the glue is cured.

   Don't worry about it. What you are expecting the glue to do is just the opposite of doing a laminate bend. For 1/4" thickness, it should be easy to laminate less than a 36" R arc. If the glue will hold that much, shouldn't it hold what you need easily? I'll bet you can easily push it flat with only a few pounds of hand pressure. Just do it, and blame me if it doesn't work. ha, K

4. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 16, 2009 04:28am | #8

   I agree with Joinerswork... it ain't gonna matter. The clamps will flatten it.. the glue will hold it. I have that exact situation down-stairs in the shop at the moment. I just finished re-saw.. will glue to substrate and tomorrow run through the planer.

   I just did 4 quad-linear legs using the same method. I ripped at 45* degrees on both side of 4 pieces or re-saw QSWO already glued to the substrate. Glued the 4 pieces together and then ran though the planer.

   Good luck...

   Sarge..

   
1. 
   AL800 | Mar 16, 2009 05:43am | #9

   G, this place is great!  Thank you to everyone who took the time to help me out.  I pretty much know what to do now with all the input.  Looks like I'll forego planing the veneer and simply wait until it's glued to the leg then plane.  I was not sure if gluing the bowed veneer onto the legs would somehow give me a problem down the road. 

   Next time I'll re-saw the veneers to 3/16" which will make them more flexible. 

   Thank's again.

    

   BTW, I have a Tannewitz table saw sitting in storage that could use a good home. I purchased it about 6 years ago, completely refurbished it and it looks almost new.  I used it for 4 years.  I am a hobbiest woodworker who likes nice toys especially the big old stuff.  Since I moved I had to sell most of the big stuff and buy new smaller machines to fit in the basement.  Check out the classified ads for more info. 

    

   
1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 16, 2009 06:41am | #12

   You should be fine. I assume you are using clamps which will pull the bow down on the glue and hold it until it dries. On those legs you saw I posted.. all four pieces have a very sharp outer edge that has to be exact or you get a gap in the edge.

   I lay them down glue side up and butt the edges exact. Then use a clear package tape strip on both ends and the middle. Apply glue to all edges and the hole thing just folds together as the package tape holds it. One more piece ties it up... then I wrap 3/8" surgical tubing around the whole kit and caboodle to pull the miters very tightly together.

   With your set up using 1/4".. you should be able to push the bow down with just a finger... therefore the clamps will pull it down tight for the glue to dry. I just re-sawed 64" long 15/16" pieces into 7/16". This is quarter sawn and as soon as it came off the BS.. it bowed about a 1/2" in the center. I can push it down flat with one finger in the middle. Clamps will most definitely take it down.

   Good luck music man... Orchestra... Symphony...? And you might add your location to your profile.. It helps with certain question to know what state or part of the country someone is in.. Here's the  4 1/4" x 64" QSWO I just re-sawed.

   BTW.. love to have that Tanne but I've got a Steel City 5 HP Industrial and that puppy takes up some room. And nice shop you got there.

   Regards...

   Sarge..

    

    

   Edited 3/15/2009 11:43 pm ET by SARGEgrinder47

   
1. 
   DustyGeorge | Mar 16, 2009 07:18am | #13

   Sarge,

   Nice work on those legs.  I am impressed.  I never thought to build up legs that way.  A person can learn all kinds of things on this forum.

   Thanks for the technique, GeorgeYou don't stop laughing because you grow old.  You grow old because you stop laughing. - Michael Pritchard<!----><!----><!---->

   <!----><!---->

1. 
   SARGEgrinder47 | Mar 16, 2009 07:49am | #14

   My first attempt but.. probably not the last as they came out well. I saw the idea in an A & C book as it was used by the Stickley factory to get fleck on four sides. They used a shaper with a lock miter... I don't have a shaper that can do a lock miter so... as usual... I just found a way with what I have.

   Sarge..