Hi Folks,
I am trying to remove some epoxy and nothing seems to work. I’ve tried lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, some of the wifes fingernail remover (acetone) and nothin, nada, zilch.
Any suggestions?
Regards,
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Replies
Dried epoxy? A torch will break the bond. Other than that it can't be dissolved with any chemical when set. Check with the manufacturer.
Rick,
I suspect that the mixture wasn't correct as it is sticky to the touch. I have had the piece(s) for several weeks now and it is still sticky.
Sounds like I'm going to have to make new parts unless I can remove it mechanically, i.e. sandpaper. This will be a job as it wil surely clog almost on contact.
Oh well.............
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
If it hasn't hardened, a cabinet scraper will probably work to remove most of the glue. Acetone usually removes fresh unhardened epoxy, try it if you haven't already.
Recently we had a batch of epoxy from Loctite that wouldn't harden, called them up and they acknowledged that they had shipped a bad lot.
John White, Shop Manager, Fine Woodworking Magazine
I've used rubbing alcohol to thin epoxy when initially mixing it up (it can then be painted on for R/C model applications such as fuel proofing a firewall without adding as much weight as un-thinned would). Works well as a solvent, though it slows the set time and the full cure time. I don't recall the percentages off hand, but you have to look for the more pure rubbing alcohol or the water content of the alcohol will cloud the epoxy and may weaken the joint.I'm less certain of using it to take off a partially set bad hardener/resin mix with it though. It might do better if allowed to soak for a while to get as much into solution as possible, I don't know. You're probably looking at some that has formed good chemical bonds and won't be soluble in anything any more, and a small portion that is the excess resin or hardener that might be soluble still.
if you warm the glue gently with a heat gun it'll soften enough to weaken the joint...
Mike Wallace
Stay safe....Have fun
Bob,
What the heck is "expoy" anyway? And what does that have to do with epoxy?
Ray
Ray,
I think my mind needs a bit of honing as it appears that it's edge is no longer keen. I have a fresh supply of Granite flakes and will apply post haste.
As for the expoy I will try some on the next trip to Hawaii! http://www.expoy.com
See what I mean..............
Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Edited 5/31/2007 9:09 am ET by KiddervilleAcres
Bob
I use epoxy quite frequently when working with slabs to fill in the knots and checks, which I call character, and I can tell you now to forget sandpaper. A nice, sharp cabinet scraper will remove it in very short order for you.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff,
The object in question is round and cylindrical with ribs turned into it, i.e. part of a handle. I wish it were flat so the scraper would work so guess I'm going to have to go it another way.
I found that Methyl Chloride will remove it but it's a carcinogen and caustic stuff. Not an option to me.
As Ringo once said, it don't come easy,
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Bob
There are several different shaped scrapers, and there is also no reason why you couldn't grind one that you have to match the profile, like a scratch stock, and be able to remove it scraper-like.
I too would stay away from a toxic chemical. Good luck with it.
Jeff
I'm personally not reticent about using methyl chloride. However, while it does work on 2-part epoxy, my experience is that it doesn't work very well. I find it faster and easier to mechanically remove cured epoxy.
West System epoxy suggests heating their epoxy to 200° F to soften in for removal mechanically. I suspect different epoxies have different temps where they become plastic.
Hmmm... I've never tried that approach. I imagine that whether it helps or not depends a lot on what type of mechanical removal is being employed. Sanding or abrading epoxy would seem to be one type where heat would be counterproductive because the softened material would clog the abrasive.
Jeff,
I do not want to change the direction of this thread, but can you tell me what epoxy you use to fill the cracks and knot holes in slabs? I've used System three epoxy glue, but have had some challenges with mini bubbles.
Rooms
I use system 3 also. I use the structural, gap filling stuff. It's the real thick, 1 to 1 mix. I've never run into issues with air bubbles. When you mix it, don't stir it. I use a drywall/putty knife, and I fold the material on itself over and over. I believe that eliminates the air bubbles.
Jeff
Acetone will work for cleaning up your tools, squeeze out, etc. when using epoxy.
But I don't know anything that will remove it once dry -- except scraping it.
But I am guessing there is some chemical that will work, and maybe the manufacturer can tell you. Or call West for advice:
http://www.westsystem.com/
********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Thanks Jeff & nikkiwood,
I'm inclined to go the scraper route to remove the bulk of it, then files/sandpaper. This is such a small project but it seems that this approach will be the quickest as I don't want to turn a new replacement piece.
I really appreciate everyones help on this and I will proceed with scraping.
Best Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
You can use wire brushes-either power or hand. If there is a risk of damage to the item a soft brass wheel at high speed will zap off that goo because the friction will heat it up-but some finesse is called for. Don't ask me how I know these things.What is the thing that is covered in expoy?Philip Marcou
Thanks phillip,
It's a turned wooden handle that is epoxied to a steel shaft. When we attached the top piece w/epoxy apparently we didn't mix it properly and when subjected to heat it drooled down on this piece.
I thought that the epoxy would be the best adhesive to use in this environment (handle for a woodstove). The epoxy for this piece seems to be OK but I think the coat applied to the top was mixed wrong and put on too thick.
Will clean up and try again. This time it will have more time to set.
Thanks for your help and will give the wire brush technique a try.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
"I thought that the epoxy would be the best adhesive to use in this environment (handle for a woodstove)."
Hmm. As others have pointed out, the application of heat is one common method for softening/removing epoxy -- even when mixed correctly. You may want to do a test piece to see if the stove handle gets hot enough to trash your epoxy. If so, you may want to consider seating the wood in hi-temp grout and pinning it in.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
philip,Powered wire brush worked like a charm.Many thanks,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
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