Replies

1. 
   TrueGentleman | Jul 24, 2006 07:33pm | #1

   Your best option is to paint it~... But if you must use a gel stain.  It does not penetrate much and with many coats you will less the effect....I think LoL

   I would paint it.

    

   Rich

    

1. 
   apiersma | Jul 24, 2006 07:50pm | #2

   I sure hope that's not my only option. I spent a ton of money for beautiful wood windows for the entire house and I don't want to cover them up with paint. I have seen references to bleach. Can bleach be used on the individual stripes or will it wash into the harder wood? Other ideas?

1. 
   TrueGentleman | Jul 24, 2006 08:42pm | #5

   I agree with JP, Bleach is not a good option for you in this case.   Also, Pine's grain is not so bad unless you paint it the best you will be able to hope or is to less the effect of the early and late wood.  I would like to hear the opinions of other on this though.

2. 
   Floss | Jul 24, 2006 08:06pm | #3

   I think what you are referring to is the diference between the early wood and the late wood. The early wood is rather porous and much lighter in color than the more dense late wood. So when you stain, the early wood soaks up the color like end grain while the late wood gains little color in comparison.

   A gel stain may offer some help, but as with any toner you will loose the clarity of the wood grain itself.

   As time goes on the difference will become less noticeable to you because you will get used to the variation.

   I doubt bleaching will help. You will have to strip the finish in order to get it to work. Then need to repeat the process. As posted before if you seal the wood then use a gel stain the color should be a little more even.

   J.P.

3. 
   jazzdogg | Jul 24, 2006 08:34pm | #4

   Hi,

   As JP noted, it's the difference in the density and directionality of the wood fibers that leads to blotching, grain reversal, and the like.

   When you apply a barrier coat - whether it's a manufacturer's pre-stain conditioner, shellac, thinned varnish, sanding sealer, or a glue size (one part hide glue, ten parts distilled water) - you may notice that the product is readily absorbed in some areas, while it sits on the surface in other areas.

   What I have found is that I need to apply more product to the areas in which it is readily absorbed until there is a consistent layer across the entire surface in order to achieve acceptable results; if the application of a barrier coat soaks in to some areas more than others, successive finishing products are likely to do the same - resulting in blotching and/or grain reversal.

   You may want to lightly scrape or sand your surface and apply an additional barrier coat before proceeding further. If the manufactured pre-stain conditioner wants to you to apply stain while the conditioner is still wet (check the label), work one small area at a time so you can apply stain before the conditioner dries.

   When I choose shellac (e.g. Zinsser Seal coat) as a sealer, I thin it to a one-pound cut and use gel stains.

   No matter what the finishing project, it pays to apply finishes to test pieces before attempting to finish the completed project, especially when using challenging species.

   Good luck,

    

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie